stevemac

It's like a crankshaft position sensor - it tells the ECU when cylinder number 1 is at TDC. As Supercharged says, it's part of the distributor.

Worn CV joint ? May have been disturbed when the mounts were fitted - depending which mount was done.

Personally, in that condition I wouldn't pay anymore than £1000 for it - with a view to breaking it for parts.. :shock:

PeterMunns, Nice looking car m8 - I use Meguiars polish & wax too. :D The rear ride height is dictated by the rear bumpstops. These are fairly spongy & act as helper springs. Either they have been shortened or they're knackered. They're cheap enough to buy but fitting them involves removing the rear shockers from the car.

billinjahg60, your car looks great m8 - excellent paintwork.

I doubt it would have been built with 5 stud wheels. The last G60's to be built were in 1992, had the later style PG engine, wider front wings, VR bonnet, VR front bumper. All had the early interior, early switchgear & 4 stud wheels.

Ahh - I'm just down the road from you, just off the A38 near spaghetti junction.

I have no idea - somewhere on the better side of 200bhp though. I'm not doing the work to get a massively high bhp figure, I'm more interested in where the max torque appears in the rev range. This is the reason why I bought the adjustable cam pulley. I can advance or retard the cam timing slightly, this will shift the max torque further up or lower down the rev range. Max torque lower in the rev range makes the car feel faster, higher in the rev range gives higher bhp. This is one reason why turbodiesels feel a lot faster than the bhp figure would suggest. The max torque is quite low in the rev range. I'm gonna have to do a fair bit of testing to get it all set up how I like it.

Good question. :lol: I'm gonna have a word with my m8 at Mercedes & ask him. I've never seen so much built up around the top of a cylinder.. :shock: Stanley "the knife" looks favourite at the mo

Scruffythefirst, The white rings are just watermarks - they were not present when I took the head off. These marks have now been cleaned off. My concern was that the carbon build-up is more than I've seen before. I'm not used to stripping engines that are 13 years old !! What should I use to clean the tops of the pistons ? Your comment about the slight lip answers a question that had also concerned me. Do all PG engines have a slight lip at the top of each cylinder ? All the engines (Mercedes) that I've ever stripped have had a constant bore all the way down, with no lip. My first thought was bore wear but the hatch markings are visible too high up the cylinder for that. All the cylinders show exactly the same carbon build up & clearly visible hatch markings.

Nasty looking crankcase needs a good clean & de-coke

JMR solid front mount Piper 270 degree cam Kent adjustable cam pulley (+/- 10 degrees) Jabbasport "big valve" ported & flowed head Ported throttle body Ported exhaust manifold Port matched inlet manifold Large front mounted intercooler Polished aluminium boost pipes Boost return removed Carbon can removed Jetex cone air filter & heatshield R1 supercharger Red top (hi-flow) injectors SNS re-chip 68mm supercharger pulley CAT bypass pipe Magnex stainless steel exhaust That'll be what's on my car once I re-build it all - R/R plots should be interesting............

I'm going to LeMans in June......... :cheers:

As some of you already know, I'm currently playing around with my engine - ohh err...lol Many things have come to my attention and I'm very glad that I've uncovered a few misdemena's done by the previous owner. Anyway, the current point in hand is the condition of the cylinder walls. I was a little shocked when I took the cylinder head off. The engine had been rebuilt using a paper type head gasket :roll: I initially thought that there was a substantial amount of bore wear - due to a large lip at the top of each cylinder. After speaking to a couple of engine re-builders/engineers today, it appears that this is just a fairly thick coating of carbon !! The watermarks are caused by my forgetting to completely empty the cooling system before removing the head.. :roll:

Deep dishes float my boat - just need to get some for my 'rado instead of the 6 spokes. The Porsche rims look good on the Golf though.

Check the banjo unions on the oil feed pipe & oil return pipe. These can be quite fragile, especially if they're overtightened. It'll be a cheap repair if it's just one of those leaking.

Neil g60, Your oil cap should be completely air-tight.

15 mins?? VW just charged me £122 labour to change my ignition barrel :bad-words: Much faster & ultimately cheaper to replace the whole lot - steering lock housing, key barrell & switch. I timed myself from driving into the w/shop until driving out again & the difference was around 17.5 minutes.. :shock:

the_croft, what exactly do you mean by a "small leak on the supercharger" ? Is it air leaking out of the casing or the boost pipe or is it oil leaking out ?

Rear screen de-misters deteriorate with age & condition - try cleaning up the electrical terminals on each side of the screen. Only way to completely rectify this is to fit a new screen. One check that you can do is to check the power feed to the rear window - I'm not sure what the voltage should be though. Mine's 13 years old & de-mists fairly well.

mistrall - In an extreme case - a dirty fuel filter will stop your car from running at all....... :shock:

Don't much like the idea of somebody "Acid cleaning" my wheels.............

The hole was only present on the early type rocker covers & is only there for over-filled oil to drain away. If it leaks constantly, your oil cap is leaking. Have another look at it & you'll see what I mean.

No idea m8 - whereabouts are you in Birmingham ? I might have seen you driving around.

G-Werks will take around a week - send it to them on Monday & you should have it back on Friday. :wink: If you have a smaller than standard pulley, the charger will be relatively easy to remove. When you start to remove the charger, you'll see what I mean.