stevemac

As title, we are now stocking 90Ah (uprated) alternators for G60 Corrado/Golf GSF part number is 90443 & current price is £115.00 + vat (exchange) Manufactured by Hella. :D

Eric - I'll be home all next weekend, you're welcome to call round.

The G60 ECU automatically retards the ignition when it senses "pinking". AFAIK - it does this for an individual cylinder, or for all 4 cylinders as neccessary. I doubt that preventing it from bleeding boost (if indeed it does when the engine "pinks") would be a problem, once the ignition has been retarded.

Tempest, What make is your fuel pump ? I have a (brand new) spare "Pierburg" pump that I can lend you for testing. Won't fit if you have a Bosch pump - fuel level sensors are different.

Possibly - on the speedo . :wink:

Sounds like you'll have a good base engine & the opportunity to add a charger of some kind at a later date, if you decide you want the extra power. Weight matching (blueprinting) doesn't really make any difference to power output, just makes it run a little smoother. Looking good, keep us all upto date with progress . :wink:

Looking good roo, I assume you took the opportunity to "weight match" the pistons when you lightened them . :wink: Is this one going to be normally aspirated or are you planning forced induction ?

markmcie, As you may/may not be aware, one of the jobs that the ISV performs is to "bleed" excess boost from the inlet manifold. Once the ECU detects what it assumes is too much boost pressure (can't remember the exact max psi), it sends a signal to the ISV which then opens slightly to dump this excess boost. Your pipework seems to be the best idea that I've seen to prevent this happening. IMO, this is a good thing & I may well install similar pipework on mine when I finally get around to fitting my front mount cooler. By all means, start another thread for this - I think there will be much discussion about it.

Looks good - what effect does having the boost pipe connected to the ISV have ? Most ISV's are vented to atmosphere when the boost return is removed.

This "thermal" fuse is very easily damaged by the heat from a soldering iron. Is the thermal fuse still intact ? Or could there be another problem with the resistor pack ?

Local vehicle body repair centre will have all the necessary equipment.

Nope - we don't stock them. The very limited fitment of these belts is unique to Vauxhall / Opel - cars which are not covered in our range of spares. I would get a price from your local Vauxhall dealer for the part number quoted above. Hopefully the belt won't be too expensive. Alternatively, Daz (g-man) may be able to source one for you.

Here you go - nearest matches Contitech – 6PK1318 Dayco – 6PK1318 Gates – 6PK1320 Vauxhall / Opel part no. 55185078 Extra 3-5mm length won't be a problem & any slack should be taken up by the tensioner.

Possibly because these chargers are about as loud as a police siren. The cars that stopped probably didn't have any road tax or insurance or something . :lol:

:notworthy:

Brings back memories of my younger driving days. Good to see you're okay though - could so easily have been a different story that we're reading here.

Changing the internal fuel pump is dead easy - fairly cheap too, around £25 from memory. It fails from time to time because it's completely submerged in fuel for all of it's life.

It will leak past the piston inside the cylinder - one possible cause of the pedal not returning correctly.

Right - this info is unique to Bosch K-Jetronic injection (1.8-16v & possibly 2.0-16v) :- Noisy external fuel pump while the engine is running means that there is a resistance somewhere in the fuel system. As Steve says, fuel filter is 1st place to start - should be changed every 2 years & lives next to the fuel pump. Make sure it's fitted the right way round - there's an arrow on the filter body, indicating the direction of flow. 2nd cause is the internal fuel pump inside the fuel tank. When this internal pump stops working, the external pump struggles to pump the fuel up out of the tank & also pressurise the fuel system at the same time. The knock-on effect of this dead internal pump is that the fuel pump relay (in the fusebox) will begin to "burn out". This relay burning out is gradual & the car will randomly cut-out while driving. Eventually, the relay will die alltogether & the car will not run. So - if your external fuel pump "buzzes" quite loudly while the engine is running, sort it out asap before it gets expensive.

Although I'm not completely familiar with the internal design of the Corrado master/slave setup, it is possible for some cylinders to leak internally - with no external fluid loss. On Mercedes 190's, the seals inside the cylinders used to turn inside-out - used to be quite common. Given the age of the car, my suggestion would be to replace the clutch master & slave cylinders.

Yeah - definitely The G60 rods have a reputation for being VERY solid & strong. I suspect the fact that there's no oilway will contribute to the strength of these rods.

Does it "hunt" on idle when the engine is warm, cold or both ? I suspect that it may be dragging air in from somewhere - check your inlet manifold for cracks & gasket condition. While the engine is idling, spray some WD40 along the inlet manifold gaskets - does this make a difference to the idle. If it does - you've found the problem.

Your rods are a different design from the STD G60 rods. STD G60 rods are solid & have no internal oilway. I suspect that, like yours, the MK1 built by Stealth will also have oilways inside the con-rods.

& all this crap about transmission losses, etc. IMO - what matters is max torque "at the wheels" but this has been debated too many times on here already.

http://www.superchips.co.uk/car/frameset.htm There's plenty of info on there - my personal experience is that their claims are quite wide of the mark though . :shock: Even a full custom remap is unlikely to yeild 210bhp. Their claim of an extra 30bhp from a G60, with no other mods at all is complete & utter rubbish. I know - I used to have one of these chips.