stevemac

Not sure if they went straight on though - maybe worth sending cheesy a pm Welcome to the forum BTW.. :wink:

That's around the same as my G60

Nope - not all of them. Some G60's have leather interior & some VR's have fabric, althought all the VR's had the later interior. Some of the late G60's came with the VR bodyshell too (like mine) - Later style bonnet & wider front wings, etc.

G60 seems to use a lot of fuel when idling in traffic - having to drive the supercharger but not receiving any boost in return.

3.5k would buy you some serious mods for the vr6 though... schrick vgi, cams, remap....no way a g60 would keep up with that is there?? One reason why I didn't go down that road is because of the drive system. Front wheel drive is not my favourite & too much power just skins the front tyres in a very short time. My last set of Eagle F1's have lasted 7000 miles !! If the Corrado was rear wheel drive then I would have got a VR & supercharged it. My driving style suits RWD cars much better.

Like dr_mat says - it really depends what you are looking for. The VR6's are newer than the G60's as the VR replaced the G60. Like you, I had a choice when I bought mine. Effortless smooth VR power or G60 tunability. I opted for a totally standard G60 & then spent approx 3.5k modifying it (including music system). If you like the noise & sheer "eyeballs out" driving then I would (& did) go for a G60

Check out their brown MK2 Golf (turbo) while you're there.. 8)

Yeah - we had a r/r event there in January

Sounds like a fairly good price if it includes fitting & VAT. Magnex is great - had mine for a year now. Not too loud & tailpipe looks fairly similar to the factory fit system.

1 mph faster ehh :lol: :lol:

If you guy's are impressed with the service & workmanship (or if you think they're c**p) let me know & I'll update the "reccommended garages" section of the forum.

To a certain degree, I think the supermarkets are also to blame - for not making the parking spaces big enough. I would suggest that when this happens to any of us, we go straight to the supermaket manager accompanied by the guilty persons & sort it that way. Ultimately, on private land, the supermarket should be responsible & liable for any damage. Public liability insurance, etc.

The only problem that you may have with the 1.8-16v is getting the correct timing adjustment to run with different fuel octane ratings. It already has the hard valve seats & as John_wintle has already said, it has no requirement for LRP. As far as I know the timing can only be set by using something such as a K-star fuel management system ??

Yeah - I'm still up for that. We'll have to sort out where to meet. I work right next to the M621 (old M1) on the way into Leeds - maybe we could meet there ?

It has no scroll seals fitted. :idea: or Scroll seal seats have been modified. :idea:

I might be going - I hadn't planned to but it's not too far from Leeds. About time we had some local shows up here. :D Is there a website with the show details ??

Somewhere between 135-140, didn't pay too much attention to the speedo as I was trying to stay on the road. Car definitely had power left but I daren't use it (not on the M1 anyway).

A fair few - click on "memberlist" near the top of this page & do a search by location. Many people haven't entered a location into their profile but from the ones that have you'll see some from USA & Canada too.. :D

Half of it's missing.. :shock:

:rofl:

There's a fairly good checklist on http://www.snstuning.com . Basically - there are many things which could contribute to your lack of power

You really want to be aiming for a R1 spec charger & around 17.5-18psi 8) Go on - you know it makes sense 8)

How to test your boost levels :- 1. Start engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 550-750 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 750 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 550 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 2200 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Courtesy of http://www.snstuning.com 8)

May have been a BT problem ?? Have you sent beavis (Steve) a pm ? Darren may not have been aware of you booking as G-werks & Pitstop are different companies.

Adjoining units, so far as I'm aware.