stevemac

Depends really, different chips can be mapped to give you maximum torque lower down the rev range. In "everyday driving" the car would feel faster. BHP is a measurement of torque at approx 5700rpm - Henny is your man on this one, he knows the exact details but 5700 is close enough. Many manufacturers aim to have maximum torque as close to this rpm as possible to make their cars appear (on paper) to be more powerful. Moving the max torque lower down the rev range will make the car feel faster but could actually reduce the bhp as the remaining torque at 5700rpm will be less. 10% more torque would be noticable as would moving the existing torque slightly further down the rev range. 10% more torque a little lower in the rev range would be even better !!

Depends if you have a 1.8 or 2.0. The 2.0 has electronic injection & can be chipped to give a bit more torque. As I explained above the 1.8 needs a lot of engine work for any noticable gains. Torque and hp are linked in that hp is a measurement of torque at a specific rpm. Torque is the measurement to look for when considering any performance modifications.

Maybe Darren (g-man) would be best answering this but basically g-werks specialise in 'charger rebulds etc & Pitstop do the rest of the mechanical work. They share adjoining premises. They also do SNS re-chips too. :D

BelfastFuManchu I'm with Kev on this one - K-Jetronic injection (fitted to 1.8-16v) is a mechanical injection system. It cannot be re-chipped as it is mechanically & not electronically controlled. Substantial engine modifications would be required to see any worthwhile gain in power. Phil I doubt a 5-7 bhp gain would even be noticable. I would look at the torque curve offered by the new chip.

I always stick to quality manufacturers - Michelin - excellent but expensive Goodyear Eagle F1 - about the best I've used Bridgestone - excellent Continental - good Pirelli - good, depending on tread pattern IMO - Toyo's are too soft and although they offer good grip they wear out too quickly

If your central locking still works okay, it sounds like a fuse/relay problem. Not sure which relay it is but there will be a "closure" relay fitted - maybe near the fusebox with the rest of the relays. Have you had an alarm fitted or ANY other electrical work done recently ??

Hi Becky, welcome to the forum. 8) If you're tuning your engine in stages then the 1st engine mod to do is to get the 'charger sorted. 2nd thing to do is to fit a large front mounted intercooler. My suggestion would be to fit larger injectors, 3.5bar fuel pressure regulator, 68mm pulley, induction kit & SNS re-chip. If you're lowering the car then lower it before buying your new wheels - otherwise you may end up with the wrong wheels (like I did). Some people worry too much about uprating brakes etc. My own opinion is that although the car will have more power, it will not be able to trave much (if any) faster nor will it be any heavier. I would leave the brakes alone - only thing I've done is to fit drilled front discs & they make no noticable difference whatsoever.

Don't see many at all here in Leeds. There are only about 8 that I know of - not many for a densly populated city 15miles in diameter.

My mate has a Nova with a Cavalier 2.0 16v (non turbo) engine fitted. This thing is like a point & shoot car. Point it in the desired direction & floor the throttle - just don't try to go round corners :lol: His car handles like a sack of s**t.

I change mine every 36,000 miles. VW recommendation is around twice that mileage but I've seen too many vehicles with snapped cambelts over the years. For the relatively small cost it's worth doing more often than VW recommend.

Do not use an offset greater than ET32 - any larger offset than ET32 will rub on the inner wings when cornering. Any less than ET25 and you may run the risk of your tyres catching the front wings. Depends how much you want to lower the car really. The correct offset becomes more critical when you lower the suspension (Offset measurement will be cast into the back of the wheel.)

I get a few emails with empty attachments

Exhausts & front spoiler look great 8) I think they made a real "pigs ear" of the rest of the bodykit & rear spoiler though :pukeright: :pukeleft:

Corrado G60 8) & Scirocco Scala 1.8i 8) Early Golfs are okay but I hate the rest of the range (hated VW's for years until I bought the Scirocco).

Not sure where you could get this done but budget for some paintwork too - often required if the paint cracks while the arches are being rolled.

Crowned king of what :lol: Not sure - there must be something that I'm good at ??

I use an allen key to tension mine - around 4 times over the last couple of months. Works fine but I do bend a few allen keys. :lol:

Nope, I lied - I have around 3.5 inches of ground clearance - just measured it

Mine's as low as a Corrado will go - front tyres rub all over the inside of the front wheel arches. Around 5" of ground clearance. :shock: Gonna have to invest in a coilover kit - maybe get a bargain at GTI inters 8)

Stephen means "crowned" - does that make me a King :lol: :lol:

Try German, Swedish & French - they may be doing them now

Possible speed sensor problem or Instrument cluster fault. Mine just keeps re-setting the mileage everytime I disconnect the battery :cry:

I use Quantum Silver in mine - seems to run okay. German, Swedish & French sell it fairly cheaply

Local VW dealer (JCT600 in Wakefield) treats me great - I used to work for VW.. :lol: :lol:

Ignition key barrel with 2 keys - 357 905 855B Steering lock housing - 535 905 851 (vehicles with adjustable steering column) Screw to attatch electrical switch - N0441155 Screws to attatch stalk switches - 321 953 573 All parts applicable to pre-facelift interior Corrados (G60 & 1.8-16v) - later cars may be different.