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Almost 20 years old! The relays behind the glove box - how are these meant to stay in place? Is there a clip or bracket somewhere that mine is missing? Tried various method with velcro, double sided tape but nothing has worked Thanks Hasan

By the way, how do you guys mount the relays at the back? I tried velcro but there's not enough contact area. Plus that other huge cable harness behind the glovebox. I've wedged that in with some foam

Many thanks! And oiled, cleaned and ready to install again. Cleaned up the endbell with a green scourer, awkward shape so not a great finish, although you'll never see it anyway! Should really have polished the outer mounting flange but again it'll never really be seen. Runs nice and smoothly now, the best its ever sounded tbh.

Made some progress in mine - removed the motor from the mount by loosening the mounting bolt. Its just an interference fit so a few taps with the mallet and it was out. Removed the vanes by tapping them.off. I put the motor between two blocks.of wood and tapped the centre with a centre punch. Cleaned the bearings and applied some lube. Seems very nice and smooth now. I'll test it with 12v and see how.it sounds. Fitted new rivets (one was upside down but i didnt have any spares so have left it, hopefully wont foul the fan..)

Many thanks. Managed to remove it and take the fan out. Its a really messy install and I'll try and improve how it goes back. Bearings in mine were ok, just needed a bit of lube. Fan was slightly dirty. Dox - I'm looking to replace the thermostat which has the two green wires going to it. The thermocouple has broken off just at the thermostat. I'm wondering if it is indeed necessary (i believe it is related to icing) and if so if a standard fridge thermostat can be used

Cressa? How did you remove the blower motor? Mine has become very noisy. Stupidly i also removed one of the long mounting screws which looks like it goes into some kind of loose captive nut, which i cant seem to find now! Also, the thermostat with the thermocouple - on mine the thermocouple has broken off right by the switch. Just wondering it its even needed - i believe its just to prevent icing on the condensor. Is it ok to just join the two green wires or could it be replaced with a standard thermostat used for eg a freezer? Thanks Hasan

My central locking is really annoying right now. It will unlock but locking from the fob will not work, but the alarm gets set. When i then manually lock the doors they stay locked until the second pulse from the central locking pump which then unlocks the doors! If i then lock them manually they will unlock again 30 seconds later. Its as though there is pressure in the system which is constantly pushing the locks back up. At the moment I've locked the doors manually without using the fob and they've stayed closed so far. Not sure what I'm looking for tbh so any suggestions welcomed Thanks Hasan

Seems to be ok now. I cleaned the bonnet switch again and it seems fine. Perhaps some corrosion.

I find that copper grease dries up quite quickly and prefer to use ceramic grease, like cera tec. Just bought a big tin of the Granville ceramic grease, more cost effective than tubes

great to see work like that. My spare starter is also a bit crust and i'm struggling to remove the long screw holding the solenoid in place - totally rounded off. Anyway, these are 'target' pics for me! Hasan

Is it worth replacing the blue pipe above with a hose directly from the tank to the portion of pipe running underneath the car?

Can you suggest and any adapters or fittings to allow the speakers to be fitted to the doors directly?

Useful . input, thanks. Thats a good suggestion regarding 4-way door speakers, I'll look into that. And then presumably you don't need crossovers if you remove the dash tweeters?

What size of speakers can be installed in the dash without compromising the fitment of the speaker covers? Does anyone have any pics of an install that they could post up, plus recommended speaker sizes? Thanks Hasan

i think under that metal collar is a fitting to prevent the pipe from collapsing from overtightening any hose clips. I think @Keyo took some photos in another thread detailing what he did and how. I'll try and dig it out.

Got to mention Seanl82, what a fantastic guy. Sent items very quickly and we had a good bit of banter via the chat on the way. I've bought from him before, but he's definitely really recommended. Shame you're moving on Sean, a loss to the forum for sure..

Parts received this week Sean, many thanks! Hasan

Agreed. When my d/s mech failed i stripped the motor down and cleaned it all up before refitting. I would certainly recommend doing this with any second-hand unit. Not difficult at all, and quite satisfying when its done.

This. My passenger side window was stuck (battery had been out of the car for a while) applied 12v from a small battery, didn't move it. Assumed that the motor was seized and proceeded to drill out the motor rivets. Just thought i'd spray the the window channels and runners just i case they were where the window was stuck. Tried my spare car battery and guess what, the window moved down. Needed a bit of persuasion and proper cleaning of the channels but it was fine. Some scrubbing and silicone spray later and its all fine. Just had to replace the motor bobbins - managed to get two out but the third didn't want to budge - access is difficult when the motor is fitted. Used some 15mm bobbins with an m6 female thread on one side so you can used screws from the inside. But obviously it turned out to be unnecessary to have drilled the motor rivets if i had used a proper battery and common sense first!

Are the beige B-Pillar trims still available Sean? If so i'll take those please. Can you send me your paypal details? Many thanks Hasan

Congrats on the new purchase, which I'm sure you'll enjoy. What is the issue with the spoiler?

Thanks Cressa. The cabin light goes out when the doors close, perhaps its not those switches?

Many thanks. I might reset it as the car battery went flat during last year so this may have affected it. I think there is some kind of reset procedure in the manual

My AI 606 gives 4 beeps when arming which suggests the bonnet is open. The doors then need to be locked manually. Bonnet switch is fine - contacts open and close correctly. Any suggestions? Thanks Hasan

Agreed JF, RW1 (Chris Gaskell) was an absolute corrado legend, he knew the car down to the circuits in the auto transmission and how to solve issues. Dennis briefly joined here - again, phenomenal level of knowledge and always willing to share and advise too. By the way, are there any updates for the old info on the Canada forum?