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James your results never fail to impress! I'm stalled on sorting my seized passenger window regulator...one of my most hated jobs on the car.. Look forward to the cabin updates

Good question, i cant remember! I went into the bike shop and they had a box of bits, so i asked for one of those. Not really sure what its called though, sorry. Maybe some cycling enthusiasts can advise us? The wood was for tensioning the cable and to maintain the correct distance as i was using the trumpet the other way around to allow me to use that locking collar thingy

I'm with you on the tinniness! Using pieces strategically in my son's yaris, tbh it just makes for a nicer feel overall. Here are some pics of what i used when my bonnet cable snapped. The alloy collar at the end was just an insurance against the cable trumpet failing and slipping off

great stuff there James, the flocking really does look nice. Is it easy to do? By the way, i used some cycle brake cable and fittings for the bonnet cable - it means the cable itself doesnt rub on the support bracket. Only a few pounds and will last as long as the car. WRT soundproofing, if you can, try and put a layer of sound barrier (a mass layer) on top of the foam - i hope i've understood what you did correctly, so apologies if i've got it back to front! Essentially the ideal structure should be: 1.panel 2. panel damper (damplifier, dynamat etc), only about 25-30% coverage needed 3. closed cell foam decoupler (4-5mm thickness is fine) 4. (dense open cell foam, sound absorber, usually insufficient space for this tbh) 5. mass loaded vinyl top layer (2-3mm is ok)

How easy is the O2M swop JF? Are there any major hurdles to doing this? thanks Hasan

Its basically a damper that as you rightly say controls the closure of the tb. Sometimes this completely fails and you get the snapping shut action. Sometimes it can be assisted by adjusting the dashpot upwards

that can also be the dashpot not catching the throttle quickly enough when you take your foot off the gas. Might be worth checking the damper and winding it up a turn or two

I know its been a while since you were on the forum but did you finally sell this? Would be interested.. Hasan

I've got Vredesteins fitted to the tt comps which are 17s and ive been really pleased with them, prob a good logical choice for 16s, so thanks for the reference to them. I think it's probably time to sell the tt comps now...

Looking for some 205 45 16 tyres. They seem to be a lot more expensive than others for either 15s or 17s egv195 50 50, 205 50 15 and 205 40 17. Any experience with 195 50 16 or anything similar? Wheels are 7J Thanks Hasan

if you open the clocks, check the flexible conductive rubber strips to the LCDs are properly in place. If not, you'll get the symptoms you're experiencing.. The look like flat pieces of rubber and are either side of the lcd display

I'm sure Fuzz appreciated your input Kip! Plus seeing your absolutely astounding car would give the guys a target

Good point there Keyo. The company we used to do our conservatory used a dodgy plumber to try and do a cheapo job in our extension. 'In my professional opinion' was his standard line. Had to kick him off and get our own plumber to sort it out. Cost us more, and the conservatory company refused to cover the extra on it, but thats another story. Actually loads more stories about these guys. Happy to share the name if anyone wants to know, btw. Mechanics are really poor now and so many are untrustworthy. Gives us home enthusiasts a bad name..

Been there, still doing that!

Mine is that browny colour but might have a go, although its still on the car so might be a bit harder..

Thats pretty impressive JF! How did you manage to get it so clean and shiny? Hasan

Interesting old thread from way back when! I was searching for Guy Hartleys corrado specs and this thread popped up. So i guess it would be rude not to reply to it Fastest ive owned is my own vr Fastest ive been in is my friends RS6 - very sedate power delivery but uber smooth Most interesting - not sure really, not had the privilege of being in anything spectacular tbh..

Welcome along and very nice looking car, congrats. Just for reference, someone (many moons ago) turbo'd an 8V and, i believe with standard internals, got a comfortable 150bhp out of it. No insane boost either so not overly stressing the standard components.

Thanks Keyo, good link to the fuel hose. I'm thinking perhaps a braided hose for under the car as the hard line will be more resistant to impact from stones etc, the hose may be more prone to get some nicks or small cuts Agree on the clamps, jubilees really don't distribute the pressure evenly thus a greater potential for leaks.

Some good info so far. Is it feasible to replace the post filter pipe and hose connection with a normal fuel hose and clips and will the hose be able to run up to the fuel rail or at least join the s-shaped pieces? I too dont like those rusty mushroom collars

Ah yes these are very useful pics, many thanks. I think it'll be easiest to remove the headlight first. So that channel on the side of the battery tray is essentially for cables and harnesses? As another point, i have a few clips one on the wing, just behind the headlight, and another almost directly behind the headlight. What goes into these? I think it was from when i pulled the engine out about 15 years ago and didn't clip things back properly! Hasan

Cressa, would you mind advising how you've routed your cable for the uprated loom, and where you've located things for the Schrick pls? My bay is quite a mess especially around the battery. I've put the vacuum control on the bulkhead although it looks like you found a good place below the aircon relays. I've tied the solenoid to the side of my aircon relays but not really happy with it tbh.. With the loom, have you clipped it to the front wing or let it run down behind the battery? Or indeed any other route? Thanks Hasan

Good stuff. These sorts of things really make a difference. Btw does your relay cover clip on? mine just seems to be a kind of 'friction' fit

Thanks for that Keyo. Just had a search for them - insane prices, i think i'll just use some standard penny washers and rubber grommets. Really dislike these sorts of prices on what are fairly unspecialised parts.

I'm looking to get some of the step washers used on the doorcards to hold the door pods on. Not quite sure what they're called but they're like washers with a little tube on them to strengthen the hole in the doorcard. Any suggestions on what they're called? Thanks Hasan