Rob_B

The AGU engine will not have the k03s. It will have the early k03. Engines after 2002 will run the later k03s. There are a different number of blades on the cold side of the turbo like Sunderland said. I think it's 10 and 12 though. OP what do you want to achieve? The 1.8 is nothing like a vr. Perhaps you need to experience one before you commit to the conversion. Costs depend on how u do the conversion or who does the work. As I a guide I spend £2500 on my conversion and that was doing all the work myself.

the AGU has the smallest turbo as standard. for 300+ you need to start thinking about a gt28rs like Kev says. K04's make their power higher up the rev range, so there is more lag than a K03. it's difficult to recommend something for someone without knowing exactly what they want to achieve or how they like an engine to feel ---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 PM ---------- that's an interesting point. I've never been to Emerald even though I pass it several times a week. I think his stuff is quite good with some nice features such as multiple maps on the same ECU. I know custom code were getting some good results from playing with the VVT on the 3.2 engine not so long ago aswell

yeah I know, just more complicated to map really. Maybe some of the high end standalone software could cope with that extra variable but the MBE stuff isn't set up for it as far as I can telll, its pretty basic

you didn't pay £1300 for an AGU did you? the later engines run VVT if you are running the factory management. should make the engine a bit more efficient. The early engines like the AGU don't run that. If you go with stand alone management it won't make any difference as you don't run VVT. The AGU runs a big valve head which would be advantageous if you want to make big power. Not any difference for at the lower end of the scale. The AGU has a steel crank and bigger wrist pins if I remember correctly than later 150/180bhp engines. To get an AGU to 260-280bhp you need to run a K04 turbo with the matching manifold and injectors. People pay more money for 225bhp engines because they already have the set up you need to make 260bhp with a map. As a guideline, the early K03 makes around 210-220bhp, late K03 makes 230-240bhp and the K04 makes 260-280bhp. This is the rough figure you will get from a remap on factory management from those turbos. It doesn't really matter what engine you bolt the turbo to, it will make the same power regardless of how strong the internals are. 1.8t's run up to around 320-340bhp on factory internals before you need to change the rods.

excellent write up so far, its a crap job but is satisfying when complete. The car will actually drive straight now!

The vw alarm I removed the other day was in two places. In the drivers side footwell behind the trim with the bonnet release cable. The second part was on the other side of the drivers footwell behind the centre console at the bottom.

The AUQ is a great engine! Anything post 2002 will run the later K03 turbo (K03s as it's incorrectly called) and will run 20psi of boost for between 220 and 250 after a remap. The BAM engine is a good engine with a steel crank and slightly stronger internals. Command a premium though so usually over priced. The AMK engine from a 210bhp Leon is another good choice. These engines with the K04 will remap up to 260-270bhp. The AGU engine has a big valve head and strong internals but has the early K03. Good engine if you change the turbo and change the ignition system to individual coil packs. Hope that helps

what santa pod? its fun!

Yan enjoyed that reply!

Do a trackday, legalise mo fo

Then he would have been nicked. Not a crime to smash your own car up. Real waste though

if you take your flywheel to an engine builder or machine shop they will machine it down no problem. had mine done on the 20v for about £30

you can buy them new if you want one. I got mine for about £25 from TPS

for what its worth I've signed the petition

Fitted some weitec anti roll bars today. Fitted a fixed steering column earlier this week. Might do a members thread one day!

Poly ones are good. Cheap ones don't last long but are better than the cheap rubber ones!

The genuine tt and r32 bushes are solid items. The ones with holes are crap. Like I said mine lasted about 50 miles!

are the bushes solid then? or do they have two slots in them? It might be worth looking into to changing the rear axle bushes then. It will only take a little bit of play in something to make the car feel unstable. might even be something like a faulty damper. are the tyres all good?

solid rubber tt bushes. they aren't the same as corrado ones. corrado ones have holes, tt ones don't. it's probably not going to pull one way or the other because the wishbones are not at the standard angle. most people on here run their cars low and its not a problem. If it feels dodgy its because something is moving when it shouldn't be. Has it just started doing this?

The Audi tt items are solid rubber. The Corrado bushes have 2 slots in them to allow for a bit of flex. Get the car in some ramps or axle stands and put a pry bar between the wishbone and the chassis, if the wishbone moves easily then the bush needs changing. Like I said my pattern ones lasted about 50miles before the problem returned

pulls to the left when you accelerate? and then goes back to the right when you let off? I replaced my wishbones with crap pattern ones and the lasted about 50 miles before they were shot.

ok well I would look at the rear wishbone bushes again. does it pull to one side when you accelerate or feel like its turning sharper when you apply the throttle in a corner?

what bushes did you put in the wishbones? what about the rear axle bushes?

I will have a look in my shed this weekend

A tuned 1.8t will be no better on fuel than a vr. As kev always says, 250bhp requires 250bhp worth of fuel. My 1.8t is rubbish on fuel. It's quick and definiatly not soulless, but expensive!