ABV-VR6

Thank you very much for the information Keyo, much appreciated. This is definitely a super nice piece, there must be only a few just like the VWMS intake? New old stock the chap had in his shop? Im assuming you will install a limited slip differential with it? You will be upgrading to a 02J shifter I'm assuming as well? I did and it's pretty straight forward " I think I made the list of parts needed on the forum". I don't have 6 speeds but I'm upgrading to a 3.94 ring and pinion, a 0.75 5th gear and a lsd. Here in Canada there's a company who make an integration kit to bolt a O2M 6 speed transmission but I'm not a huge fan of the extra weight, crazy expensive custom drive shafts etc... But what you have it's definitely the pinnacle and I didn't even know it existed! That would also be the only thing I would upgrade to "if I could". Sometimes I wish I lived in Europe! That's amazing you've found that! Cheers mate

This all looks fantastic Keyo! I can tell these parts look like some part of VW racing history and definitely looks stunning. But because I'm somewhat new to this would you mind educating me about it so I have a better grasp of what I am looking at? This is what I think it so far: this is an "add-on" that bolts to the transmission and allow you to install a 6th gear. Obviously Volkswagen Motor Sports. The first part you showed us is the new "box" for the shifter inside allowing for 6 gear shift. Is it beefier? On what is what used for? Tell me more please! Cheers

That would be really nice! If you make something, I'll buy one! It needs to be strong, I'm blown away that the 8mm thick piece of iron from an industrial "I" beam took a serious bend in the process! But I think the biggest flaws can't be fix and it's the size of the hole which do not allow bigger than a 7/16" threaded rod. I think a 1/2" rod would have made a big difference. I mean, the control arm bushing has a bigger hole than the rear bushing which made it a piece of cake to do! Cheers mate!

Thanks a lot! I'm glad it's behind me now. I'm sure I would feel more confident the second time now that I know what to expect. So far: hardest job = rear beam bushings, most nerve wrecking job = getting to the HVAC box fir the heater core 😉

Thanks! Happy I made it happen. All I had was a piece of thick steel, a grinder and a drill, basic jig but worked out good! And yes, I'm not planning on doing another set! Cheers

Welcome to the club! You're off with a good start, like you I improvise every steps and it's been a lot of fun and very rewarding. Cheers!

Well I made it happen! It was not easy, challenging and stressful but it's done. I heated the beam with a heat gun, bushing in the freezer for a couple of days. I used a 7/16" threaded rod, bunch of washers, lots of grease. I broke about 4 rods just on one side, it's pretty nerve wrecking when you think about all that time to change the setup and the bushing is warming up... It's too bad the hole is so small 7/16" is the biggest thing that passes... Anyways pictures for reference if someone one day needs to make a basic DIY tool for that... Cheers!

These are nice numbers and you must definitely feel relieved after that second run... Good for you! I've been debating between 263 or 268!

Wow that's a freakin nice piece/find! Like everyone else, I would love to have one as well... Very happy for you!

Very curious to find out what you have in mind! I'm sure it's going to be good!

Sounds good, keep us posted! I'm going to attempt with my Mickey mouse jig on the weekend, that should be interesting!

Didn't finish my thoughts but that way I would think you wouldn't have to align the steering since you would be leaving it in place. But if you want the steering down, then do what Sean said and good advice about reconnecting the pipes first. It shouldn't be that hard to reconnect, like he said there's a notch on it. Keep us posted!

You can do what Sean said and that should definitely work. I don't think you would have any problems centering it since the 4 bolts that holds the steering rack in place are fixed in the K frame which means it only goes where it needs to go. From the top of the rack, you would have only the 4 nuts to remove. Once the K frame drops, the steering rack will just be "hanging there" if you remove the tie rod ends first

You know, I've just done it not that way since the engine is out already but I did just remove the K frame and wishbone and the whole steering stuff. I never done it the way you're thinking of doing it but I would think it should work. Of course the first thing would be to secure the engine with a crane and maybe a jack underneath just in case. Then, un bolting the steering rack (4 screws) from the K frame if you don't want to mess with that. Remove everything related at the wish bone or straight at the knuckle where the struts are attached if you want the whole thing out ( if not ball joints, tie rid ends). Then I would carry on with the 3 per side bolts that holds the K frame. I would finish by the the 2 rear engine mounts so you're over the frame when it drops. I think it's doable seriously! That's on top of my head right now... Questions?

Damn you!! 😂🤣😅😁 Maybe the PO was smart enough to put some anti seize of the shafts prior 😜 Cheers mate!

I had to do that recently as well. Both originals and so stuck in there that I never been able to remove them. I don't have a press... I tried the "trick" with a torch and putting the axle nut back and slam it with my 10 pounds sledge, didn't even budge... I smashed so hard that the nut broke the filets even if it was all the way in, pretty pissed. I ended up removing the cv from the shaft and bough new outer CV. I had new knuckles and hub so that was ok but may not be the case for everyone... Good luck! I can't help out with a special trick but I can tell you that I will be putting some anti seize before they go back in...

The "c" is definitely softer feeling but I don't know if this is due to age? It may have started at the same length but there's also a change in the design. On the "b" the "walls" are thicker and the opening don't go as far either as they don't pass the holes but with the "c" they go well above. Openings are pointier too compared to the rounded openings on the "b". I've been contacted by gurby28 on the forum and apparently etka as the "c" are for cabrio 2002. What I find strange is my exhaust line is completely original so I don't understand how these ended up there if they were. Also the dealer told me they were replaced from "c" to "b" but I don't see that on etka for the Corrado. Who knows? Not me apparently lol. Might never find out, just hoping I bought the right thing at this point!

Here's the difference side by side of the two models. The "c" being the longer one and the one installed on my car. I ordered the "b" in the end since apparently they're the right ones. Maybe that was the reason why the PO had installed the collar to make it tighter? Anyways, just thought I would put it out there for future reference, cheers!

Well the seller just got back to me, 5 days later... 40 GBP to ship here, I think I'll make due with my micky mouse setup!

Maybe I read this wrong but you just want to be sure that it works before installing it mate? If it was me, I would just wire it straight to the battery to confirm the motor spins. The other speeds settings are sensor or fuse related and not a fan issue. If it doesn't work on stage 2 or 3, that as nothing to do with the fan itself and a different trouble shooting is required. Hopefully that helps, if not I'm sorry! Cheers

I agree with you, that may just be it. Combine the super slow world wide shipping issue caused by covid, add the Christmas online shopping and top that up with brexit and it's giving you a good way to get bad reviews on your eBay account... Well at least Bruno had a way to get around it and I'm curious to hear the comments on the tool.

Oh Hasan could you? That would be amazing!

Yes mate, I guess it's free to ask! I'll message him and see. Thing is though, shipping takes likes 6 to 8 weeks right now! Cheers

Same for me, I'm getting pretty much everything under the car powder coated and where the bushings or bolts go, it's been blanked off so should be the same as before. That tool is nice, don't know the answer to your question though!

One last thing I'll be putting the bushings in the freezer for a couple of days before doing it, can't hurt!