ABV-VR6

Got mine from Sprinter too, I'm happy with it! I think it's maxxg60 on ebay his user name.

Thanks to both of you! I investigated the white wire which indeed looked narrow in my picture. But it was just the angle and I guess dirt that made it look like it. What I've found is : PIN1 : red & white is the power coming from the fuel pump relay. PIN2 : brown and goes to ECU 12 (sensor 1 heater ground). PIN3 : yellow goes to ECU 42 (sensor one ground and shared for both sensors late 94+). PIN4 : white to ECU 20 (sensor 1 ground). So if my broken wire is a ground, then it should definitely be fixed. Funny thing is, there was no red lights at all when I last parked the car. You would think a lambda sensor is sensitive to that. I will fix it for sure, I was just curious as why the previous owner had not fixed it, seems like there was an attempt but then why adding an extra wire to just put tape at the end of it? I guess I'll never know!

Today while working on my car, I was inspecting my wiring before doing a clean up and noticed that the wiring for my o2 sensor had a wire broken. The yellow one at position 3 looks like it was ripped off the connector. A piece of wire was solder to it but instead of rewiring to the connector it was left aside with electrical tape at the end. So I'm wondering, on a VR6 engine do all four wires are usually connected, probably right? What would be the reason of cutting and isolating the yellow wire then? Thank you!

Well, I've done it... ABV 1 / Crocodile 0 Im going to put this out there for future reference as I combined two techniques and with it, I made happen the last 3 bushings in less than 10 minutes compared to the 20/30 minutes for the first one. As Keyo suggested, securing the engine carrier in a vise is a must. Frozen bushings were not a good idea as you want them more malleable so they are easier to work with at room temperature. What I struggled with, is that the more grease the better but then you just fight with the bushing going left when or press right and vice versa. Ended up using two flat head and a slippage while doing so could have hurt... Anyways it worked that way but it was still a struggle. Here's my plan B that worked like a charm. Seriously, less than 10 minutes all 3 were in. I had a left over threaded rod from the rear beam bushing, about 30cm long. A 30 and a 60mm socket. The problem with my original jig was that I was trying to press in the bushing. This time, I inverted it so I was pulling the bushing in. I pulled it in until one part of the lip went through. If you put too much pressure it won't have enough space to wiggle itself in so there's a balance to respect. Anyways, that kept a constant pressure on the bushing. Then I turned the bushing until the bulging part was on top just to be in a better position to push. With the pressure on, there was no more slippage or struggle while pushing the bulging part in with my fat flat head (with masking tape on it as mentioned). Hopefully the picture shows what I'm trying to explain. I snapped it just before pushing on the bulging top part. Thanks for the support, cheers!

Wrestling a crocodile, that's exactly how I felt ha haa! I think the holes got a tad smaller with the powder coat and those Febi bushings are stiffer than the OEM ones too. Makes the process harder to happen. The rear beam bushings won the gold medal and these win the silver medal! I got one yesterday... Today I'll try to get the rest done. Wish me luck! Cheers

Thanks Keyo! Alright, I'll try that again, your way this time! Did you used grease or just straight up? I wonder if the grease is helping or not, might be too much as it won't bind... Cheers mate

I'm having a real hard time trying to reinstall those bushings. I cannot even get one installed after 30 minutes and there's 4 to do... Bushings have been in the freezer, I have rubber friendly grease. I tried a treaded rod. Nothing works! Help! Anyone has a trick of the trade?

I know, I've been thinking about it too... I actually emailed him last week about this but hasn't come back to me yet... You're solution to fix the issue is quite straightforward and it makes sense. I'll probably ended up doing it this way. Cheers!

No worries mate, they're on their way and hopefully better quality? Let me know! Glad to hear it's working because I won't be installing it any time soon. And I agree, the spacer is must!

Oh so mate you found the connectors? I sent 9 your way yesterday! Anyway, all good and glad it worked out. So, you do see/feel a difference eh?

That's going to be a fun project! Makes me think of the one I used to have. Maybe I should look around! I love those P-slot rims, I had polished them mirror back in the days, took so much time... That interior is super nice as well! Good luck and have fun with it!

That's a good idea to "recycle" those calipers to the 16v, both cars will get a great upgrade!

Oh that's good to look real good mate! Everything brand new including hardware and quality parts. Fantastic and good for you! Cheers

Ha! I got the same ones too. From the dealer right? I was a little disappointed when I installed them though, they're kind of too short and still can see some treads on the valve. Are yours like that too? I was wondering if it was my valve stems that were just too long. Cheers!

Sorry for some reason I though I replied to this! Thank you oneohtwo for offering the cad file, I may stick with what I have purchased, I'll wait to see the quality once I get the shroud and will decide from there. I thinking I could keep the shroud, upgrade to better fans and make my loom. Price difference is not that bad between straight and curved blades. Then I would like to make the wiring loom like the phenix one, straight from the battery, 2 speeds, eliminate the oem fan module... Cheers!

Well that turned out well and good thing for the extra loom too. You kind of fixed two things at the same time too!! Good for you, cheers!

Didn't see that post! Yes I went for those as well good brand!

Good job mate, what was it?? Go enjoy the car now! Cheers

What did you go for on the wishbone bushings Shaun? Good thing the windscreen has no leak but not so much on the dash lights! All of them? Good luck dealing behind the box I know how much it is a pain... Keep us posted, cheers!

Oh man, that color and shine is GORGEOUS!! I love the reflection of the bricks in it too. It must feel so good to have it all back together again. So clean Shaun, congrats!

Good point! Haven't thought about that and you're probably right. Thanks again for bringing that up to me.

That fan as massive cfm mate! Holy!! I noticed the blade design is different too. The ones from phenix are 1226.

Ya, I'm thinking that those fans from fabless are the slimmest version, the ones you need for a VR6 swap in a MK1 because it's very tight. That said, I compared and really only the 12" has a big cfm difference between the straight and the curved blades design. Which is 1226 cfm for the curved version and 867 for the straight blades. A 359 cfm difference and I think I will upgrade to that one and return the straight blade I ordered. As for the 9" there's only 35 cfm difference (625 curved and 590 straight) between the two models so it's not really a huge difference... That would get me 1816 total cfm and for an NA set-up that must be enough. What do you think mate?

Alright thanks mate!

Thanks for making me laugh mate, I'm so mad at myself! Thing is I wanted the phenix but by the time it arrives here it's twice as much as the other one since fabless is a Canadian company. That said, I didn't even noticed the fan cfm difference... That part sucks big time. Maybe those will go in the loft and I'll order the better ones 🤪😆😁. Do you know what is the cfm on the oem setup?