Neil VR6

My Miltek's perfect; fit, sound, quality!

If you're in any doubt contact 16VG60. He can get them for about £260 as well!

I have that guage panel in MikeVR6's post, the simple one with 2 holes. I have a volt meter and a boost guage in mine. Any 52mm gauge will fit into them. It's in an older type interior. It's a bit flimsy and to be honest a nicely shaped bit of MDF trimmed in something would look just as good!

Contact 16VG60 (John from JMR). He fitted a Mocal unit to my G60 and the temps are much better now.

I know two people with Mk4 Golfs and the window has dropped into the door in each car! Other than that, v reliable

I run DEi 8ich mid bass drivers in a stealth shelf and Genesis 5.25 comps up front in the factory locations all topped off with a 12 inch sub and it sounds good. Each speaker only deals with a certain frequency and the components up front help the sound stage to keep up front. Mid bass drivers are the way forward!

Another T Wells Corrado owner! I take mine to Joe's Garage round the back of Lenco for all my day-to-day servicing. They're a VW and Pug specialist. If it's something a bit more serious or "upgrade" orientated I go to John (16VG60) at JMR as mentioned above. Joe's are good though and can always fit you in if you're desperate. The fact that their diary is booked up for 2 weeks most of the time speaks for itself!

You can often attribute a whining noise to your girlfriend/wife when you tell her about a new part you've bought for your car.

If you're going to go for a Corrado then get a G60. The two mate so well together. Effortless performance on a motorway run with so much lazy torque. The amount of time I've pulled away in 3rd from a standstill and not realised until I'm at 30 mph!! Just do some research before you buy and look for an enthusiast car with stacks of receipts. VAG main stealer service history means nothing so look for specialist maintenance and keen owners who can't stop talking about what they've had done! Obviously make sure the G-Laders been serviced when needed.

And VW's are supposed to be reliable! I swapped a perfectly servicable 26,000 mile economical car with adequate performance for a thirsty and troublesome car who's parts are very expensive. Again, wouldn't change it for anything (apart from a TVR Sagaris)

JMR front engine mount Rear suspension bushes Clutch slave cylinder Miltek exhaust + decat JMR Mocal oil cooler kit Rear brake bias adjuster Oil change with filter Rocker cover gasket Rad top 90 degree bend Coolant hose 1 x hydraulic flush and pressure bleed 2 x coolant flush K&N panel filter Handbrake gaiter 3x interior trims parts for A pillar H100VW headlight loom Lupo wipers front and rear 2 x guages for centre pod (boost and volts) ICE install (DEi 8 inch mid bass drivers, Diamond Audio CM3 12" sub, Genesis components, stealth shelf, 4 x rolls of Dynamat Extreme, Alpine MRD M500 and MRV T420 amps) 4 x original BBS wheels with Toyo shoes (to replace silly 17 inch wheels that ruined the ride) 2 x Mk 3 GTi rear calipers Fuel hose from fuel rail Soon.... Front discs and pads and JMR precautionary G-Lader rebuild following Jabba "stage 4" in 2001 By the way I paid £3450 for a J reg G60 with 112,000 miles on the clock and I've probably done about 1500 miles since October when I bought it!

Erm? :D

I gotta get me some of them!!! :D

Even standard pads are fine for normal use. Fast road pads will work better at high temperatures but if you're a normal driver like 99% of people I'm sure a standard set up would be OK. A better upgrade would be some braided lines to firm up pedal feel a bit.

I lost a fog light to a gritter :(

I had EBC Turbo groove discs and Green stuff pads on my old Polo and they were were the worst brakes I have ever used. The pads didn't work from cold very well and overheated very quickly. I was in Wales following a slow car down a hill so the brakes were on for a while. I smelt burning and started to actually need to use my strength on the brake pedal to get the car to slow down at all! Eventually I pulled over in a car park and there was smoke coming off the pads and the alloy wheel was hot! Also the discs warped and had to be machined true again!

I think JMR use guttering downpipe but I'm not sure. You don't need anything particularly fancy or heat resistant and you wont see it.

Ditto Andy665! The std airbox is good, no need for an induction kit. Save your money and get an oil cooler! (from JMR!)

I won! ha ha!

12PSI !!!! I'll try that next time! I went on Saturday! :lol:

Well you could go for a "custom" set up or buy a tailor made, dyno tested off the shelf Magnex, Miltek or Supersprint that will fit perfectly if fitted correctly. I've seen Powerflow's rotted through. They are all franchised and the quality of fitting and welding will vary considerably between outlets. A chap on here has got one and posted some pics up of the welding and it looks like a real Friday afternoon job! I would imagine the search facility would help you out on the quest to make a decision. If you go for a Miltek, give 16VG60 a call as he can do a good deal. The tailpipe design is oval.

Someone steal it, spray up a scrappie bumper, fit a normal exhaust and then put it back in the same place with a threatening note under the wiper saying that if he does that again we'll steal it again and not give it back.

I didn't see a scoop'd Corrado but I suppose it could have been there. I haven't seen the pics yet though.

That wasn't there. 13.8 is very quick! Any traction control involved?