Neil VR6

I contacted one of these online detailing products sellers and they recommended me a Meg's yellow foam pad with a suitable sized screw in back thingy. Seems to do the trick fine. I haven't used the lambswool thing. I can't help think it'll get clogged and become useless very quickly. I always remove the products by hand with a polishing cloth which I can shake and turn frequently

Well I got the car back yesterday and it's not better, at all. It drives like a complete dog and still has an intermittant misfire. It's had a recon dizzy, new plugs, new mani to mani gasket, new FPR and a rewired MAF. What's more the wasters at that place that recon'd the dizzy left a lump of magnetic metal inside the casing and didn't bother putting a grub screw on the new rotor arm. :brickwall: Total cost so far = ca £500. Progress = 0 Chances of selling car and buying another Pug 205 diesel = 4:1

I've got that very item and it's brilliant. Soft start so it doesn't fling stuff everywhere and it can be turned right down to 900rpm. I use it with Poorboys cutting compound (http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/product_i ... ucts_id=69) and it's brilliant at getting rid of spider webs and swirls. I always wax by hand so never use it for that.

So the Falkens make the Toyo look hard-wearing! :shock:

Give the guys at Opie Oils a shout or do a search on the forum :)

The lack of power has been solved by the recon'd dizzy - great. It still won't idle from cold though. Apparently it's not the ISV or the choke sensor. Fuel pressure is fine too. However, if you pinch the fuel return (and consequently raise FP) when it's cold it idles fine. All plugs look fine. Could this be symptomatic of a blocked injector or somethng else? It also revs and pulls fine right to the redline so that suggests the fuel pump is OK

Same for GreenStuff pads - way too soft for Corrados at the front. Get the Reds for the front and use the Greens on the back

Ditch that Jabba chip, they’re awful! I swapped my Jabba chip which came with the car to a SNS chip and the difference was stark. Mine ran far too rich with the Jabba EPROM

V nice!! :notworthy:

I don't doubt that but is the wideband connected in place of the normal lambda and feeding the ECU with info or just held up the exhaust pipe for the sake of the plotting the graph? I just can't see how injectors are maxing out at only 5bhp over stock power? It's probably the equivalent of an icy cold day with a stock car, there should be more headroom than that I reckon

I've just phoned ThinkAuto - presumably where Stealth source their kits from: http://www.thinkauto.com/ The chap quoted me up a kit which ditches the OE cooler (so I don't need a special long bolt) ThinkAuto VR6 oil cooler costing (ditching OE cooler) Quant Unit cost Total cost Thermo plate 1 £33.20 £33.20 Blanking cover 1 £14.22 £14.22 Spigot 1 £4.23 £4.23 Cooler 1 £70.88 £70.88 Hose 2 £8.18 £16.36 90 deg fitting 2 £7.06 £14.12 Straight fitting 2 £2.28 £4.56 Adaptors 2 £1.32 £2.64 O-rings 2 £0.11 £0.22 Sub total £160.43 VAT £24.06 TOTAL £184.49 The plate opens at 80 degrees too Apols for the formatting - it looked fine in the preview!

Cool (excuse the pun). Cheers :D

Where did you source your kit from?

Given the properties of oil you’ve just described I can’t see why there would be demand for a 70 degree thermo’ plate? What’s the significance of a ThinkAuto thermo’ plate? Are they better quality?

Interesting - so in front of the rad you get better airflow but it's more exposed to the elements (makes sense). Surely if you have a thermo' sandwich plate you can't get overcooling even if you're using an enormous cooling element?

Thanks chaps - I think I'll stick mine in front of the rad I'm actually quite keen to retain the standard heat exchanger as it's helps the oil to warm up from cold. 'Mixing' the two liquids does make sense as the higher specific heat capacity of oil means the water warms the car's oil up. Regardless of size an oil cooler won't prevent oil temps from climbing whilst stationary unless you fit a fan to it as no air will be drawn through it otherwise. So, I've contacted a few places for quotes: Merlin Motorsport - £225 using press on 'fir-tree' fittings and a 16 row cooler + thermo plate and extension bolt G-Werks - ca £150 using press-on one end and swaged the other (so I can cut to length), 16 row cooler, thermo plate and extension bolt Stealth - £300 (!) with swaged hoses, 16 row, thermo plate and extension bolt I think I'll go for 90 deg bends as that seems to fit better with the engine bay dynamics

I'm probably going to get a cooler kit from Merlin soon - am I right in thinking I can use straight connectors (x2) for the actual rad and 90 degree bends (x2) for the filter end? Also I was thinking 16 row for normal road use too? (plus the all important thermostatic plate) I was going to ditch the standard cooler/warmer too. Any more pics gratefully appreciated, I was thinking of moutning in behind the grill so I can avoid taking the bumper off :)

Nooo, keep the Speedlines! Car looks really nice Looking at your pics of the car filthy, I've always thought it strange that the rear wheels always get filthier than the fronts?

It was at a local VW specialist (AllDub tuning, forum member 'corradorun' works there and had been working on it) and they spent an awful long time taking things apart and running diagnostic checks. I sent the dizzy back yesterday and it'll be back tomorrow. If this doesn't fix it I'm going to push the damn thing off Beachy Head! Basically it would rev whilst stationary but when it was under load the revs would only rise very slowly which was diagnosed as a timing issue. Further investigation into the dizzy revealed the 3 pin multi plug hanging out and presumably the hall sensor playing up. It must be the original unit (it's a Bosch) which means it's been working for 128K miles which I guess isn't too bad! The car also burnt through a rotor arm and cap in 2006 and 2007

Given that the car's standard output is 160bhp and you're only making 165bhp your injectors are very unlikley to be maxing out. I'd take it somewhere for a health check, G-Werks or JMR - both experts. I was making about 180-185 on my old G60 with no sign of the injector duty going too high. Given your slighty erratic AFR you might have a duff lambda probe which measures the amount of unburnt fuel in your exhaust gases and feeds that back to the ECU. When I got my SNS chip mapped at G-Werks they hooked up a wideband lambda probe to the exhaust which reads over a far greater range than the standard lambda probe. I then took it out down the bypass for some full bore third gear bursts to make sure the AFR was enriching under boost whilst Darren had his eye on the wideband readings - which is vital. If you're running a smaller pulley you'll need the ECU remapped or you're running more boost and the ECU won't know what to do when it sees more air.

This gets raised often. My opinion is that poly bushes are a waste of time. They’re less comfortable and wear our quicker despite their lifetime claims. I’d always stick to OE

After much investigation it turns out my distributor’s shot. It took so long to diagnose because the symptoms (no mid range grunt) are unusual. It’s obsolete from VAG now but I’m getting my old one rebuilt here for £100 +vat with a 3yr warranty: http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/index.aspx

Given that they're not big money I'd just get some new ones. You'll never get them back to how they should be.

Use the search for this one I reckon :) It comes up loads This may help though: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=77103

Unless you've got a pre-coilpack distributor engine like me :( (which has been of the road for 2 weeks now with similar issues)