Neil VR6

Always use a live where you know what it does! Straight to battery = direct feed, dash lights = 'lights' feed, most others = ignition feed (test by trying whatever it is and you're in luck if it doesn't work when the key's not in the ignition). For an earth, you can use anything provided it ends up on the chassis. What is this exhaust wotsit anyway?

Why would you put a switch onto a pair of wires of unknown function/origin?

This might be a lod of old chuff but if you've spliced into a circuit you might need an 'on/on' switch rather than an 'on/off' switch. This way, when your exhaust cut out (whatever that is!) is 'off' the original circuit works as intended

Don't forget your local supplier who can often do good deals or price match :)

5 clicks in - registers after 50 degrees in 2 degree increments. Try warming up the car stationary with the cap off whilst massaging the top hose to get any leaks out.

I was about to suggest water pump – are there any strange noises coming from the left side of the engine? Could be an airlock too

In terms of running costs a 3 litre GTV is about the same as a VR although the engine is probably stronger and an absolute peach to boot. I was in one on the trip to Le Mans this year and it wasn't far behind our mate's 996 GT3. So much creamy torque right to the red line. I'd go 968 Sport, Z4 3.0 or S2000. I couldn't live with the looks of a Fiat Coupe :gag: and I'd place a well sorted G60 and its 'fragile' charger ahead of the Fiat's 20v T any day in the reliability stakes.

I think 99 was Ford Puma 1.7

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 9&start=15 :tongue:

Coilovers are seriously easy to do. You'll need a jack, some axle stands, a socket set, some spanners and a half inch breaker bar and associated half inch drive bits. Just don't forget to get it laser aligned at the front when you're done. I'd get the fuel leak sorted first though! I had a fuel leak in mine which was the high pressure feed into the fuel rail - dangerous as the petrol drips onto the hot manifold. Lots of G60s have met their demise this way. The tubing is a VW specific shaped part so make sure you pop along to your local dealer and get the right bit. I did a post years back on this: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... el#p380998

I also heard that warming the plastics with a hairdryer whilst you apply this stuff help to absorb the oils

To be fair the reason I had them off is because the plastic threaded spring seats wouldn't turn and I had to hacksaw them off and replace them with new ones (thanks G-Werks for supplying them as warranty :notworthy: :salute: ) It was a simple job in the end but you could tell they're quality units as they come apart. The only downer are those spring seats but I can't fault them otherwise. You definitely get what you pay for.

I took my rear coilovers off at the weekend to adjust and clean them. They're over 2 years old and with nothing more than some Fairy liquid they came up like this:

Take it to JMR - he's only down the road from you!

Lots of odd symptoms there – could be a problem with more than one thing. I’d definitely run VAGCOM through it and see what errors it throws up. Starting issue could be ignition switch or ignition relay (both common problems). I was going to say fuel pump relay too but if you hear a wirring sound when you twist the key it sounds like the pump is priming so that sounds OK. In any case these 2 relays are weak points and both cheap as chips to replace. The tuning over issue and dodgy running could be ignition related or something like a crank position sensor. Rough running can be anything from a bu66ered MAF to fuelling issues. If the issues change according to whether the engine’s hot or cold it could be a temp sender – another common fault on all Corrados. If you’re not confident with engines I’d take it to someone who knows VRs

I'd take a V8 in a heartbeat. Lovely cars and rare too.

Probably thrown a wheel weight. Check that first at a local tyre fitters :)

Awesome kit. I haven't used the amps but they're got a very good rep. I use their Audiophile speakers and I've used their slightly cheaper Profile component speakers too and I rate them both very highly indeed. On par with JL Audio VRs which were my 'benchmark' in terms of sound

Second hand is a good bet - stick to places like Talk Audio as recommended though as it easy to shift on either stolen or faulty kit on ebay etc. I use one of these bridged into 2 channels and it's got a nice laid back sound and it's as cheap as chips for a new amp: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/amplifi ... -f300.html

I think that Landie should be taken to Le Mans!

Check the serpentine belt which drives the oil pump (left side of engine) for cracks too. I’m sure a local forum member wouldn’t mind having a look over the car for you as well. I wouldn’t replace the leads and plugs unless the engine is exhibiting symptoms that point towards these components being faulty.

If you’re going to the trouble of fitting the decent pods to allow you to have 6.5 drivers I’d recommend you externally amplify them. You can have a 2 channel (obviously) or a 4 channel amp. If you have a 4 you can bridge 2 of the channels into two if you’re only running a pair of speakers. This way, you can amp a sub or another pair of speakers from the same amp at a later date – more versatile. There are hundreds of amps out there and most will sound a lot better than just using h/u amplification. I use Alpine amps as they’re relatively cheap and give good power (always more than stated in the brochure). Sound quality is driven by installation as much as the kit itself.

I'm wondering how to splice into the current wiring - most of the wires near to the engine are very brittle from the age and heat now. I might see if I can take the sensor plug apart and feed the switch sire into there so I'm not actually snipping wires

Hurrah! Parts ordered. Write-up to follow. I hate electrics, especially on old cars :lol:

I thought it fed the fan control unit?