Neil VR6

Are you running standard charge cooling?

Go for a ride with somebody who has 17s. I found them too hard so sold mine in favour of the original 15 inch BBs's

Or get a friend who you can trust to warm it up and down to take it out every week or two?

Clean and low! Sweet :D

It's better to pressure bleed the system rather than doing it manually. This way you don't push the cylinders past the master cylinder past it's normal range of movement. If you have a high mileage car the piston is likely to have very slightly worn its own path in the cylinder which the seals have "accomodated". By pushing the cylinder beyond this you risk nicking the seals slightly and losing pressure when you brake.

One of my mates put them on his R5T in 15 inch and it required machining part of the wheel slightly, which Azev did for him and then they fitted perfectly and didn't rub on the caliper. They are a great old school rim!

My H100VW loom is brilliant :)

I've got new Toyo's on mine and they're ace, can't speak for the 712s though. I had some other Khumo's on my old Polo and they were complete rubbish though

I thought I'd bung mine up there for a laugh! There's only one vote for me so far which unsurprisingly is my vote but oh well! :D :D :D The thing is that most Corrado's look near standard because they look so good anyway. Lairy bodywork and stick on plastic ruins the look of it, only smoothing and colour coding look any good i.e mods that add to the cars original appeal.

The best way to improve brakes is to increase the mechanical advantage of the brakes. Easiest way would be to get a big disk kit, this way you get more mechanical leverage, and better cooling (more surface area). Pads and discs of the same size only have a very limited effect, despite what the ads say. I had EBC discs and pads and the discs warped and the pads melted. Complete plop. Unless you wanted to go for a balls out Brembo set up or similar you could source some potentially bigger VAG brakes from another car and possibly make them fit? Thats the beauty of parts commonality between VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat!

I had one of the expensive £65 jobs from Halfords and it was brilliant. It was made from DuPont Tyvek and was completly waterproof and also breathable so you dont get condensation. It was also silver in colour so it reflected the sun in the summer and kept the car cool. The back of it was sufficiently soft not to scratch the car either. I used it to keep tree sap off the car when I lived in my old flat.

Yup, that was mine! There was a black VR there yesterday and the Rallye was under covers. It was in for a new charger, waiting on bits! Whilst I was there, two other 'Rado's turned up as well including the chap who I bought the BBS's off! Small world! You won't be disappointed! The rear bushes made an amazing difference, the car feels so much more stable.

A massive thanks to John at JMR for all the work that he's done on my car. Parts: Rear axle suspension bushes x2 2 litres of brake fluid Mk 3 Golf OSR brake caliper Rear brake compensator valve Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder Brake/clutch fluid transfer hose JMR solid billet alloy front engine mount 5 litres of Synta Silver oil Oil filter Lupo wipers f&r JMR oil cooler kit (Mocal) JMR supercharger alloy outlet kit Miltek exhaust and cat bypass Exhaust gasket Odds and s0ds Work Completed Fitted above Hydraulic fluid changes Gear shift cables adjusted (for optimum rifle bolt gear shift!) Drivers door adjusted to sit flush I'm now absolutely skint but the car is transformed. Gear shift and power delivery are fantastic due to the engine mount and gear adjustment. It pulls like a train in high gears from 20mph and sounds like a WW2 fighter plane. Following the alloy outlet and removal of some silencing expansion box the S/C really sings too. The back end is stable following the rear bush replacement and even the handbrake works now! It feels like a different car to the one I took down there a couple of weeks ago! :D :D :D I can't recommend JMR enough if you want great service and top quality parts.

I've just sent John a pm actually, the car is transformed, cheers for the recommendation!

Well I just drove about 40 miles back from JMR (thanks a lot for the work on the car) following a MIltek system and decat being ftited and it sounds awesome. When accelerating hard it sounds like a P51 Mustang but quietens down nicely when cruising. Just what I personally want from an exhaust. It fits perfectly with no banging and looks the nuts with a nice subtle oval tail pipe. :)

Looks amazing. I wish I had a garage :(

I only got half of it thanks to Sports Personality of the Year. :mad:

The thing about Powerflow and Longlife is that the quality can be inconsistent as that are just franchises. I had a mid section fitted to my old car and the back box I had which previously fitted perfectly (Magnex) hung at a very odd angle following Longlife getting their mits on it. I had to take it back and they had to hash on some extra bit of metal. I've also seen pics of Powerflow exhausts that have completely rotted away and welds that look at though David Blunkett did them. They're OK if you get a good franchise and a good welder having a good day and you ask for the right thing. At least if you get an off the shelf one, you can be (generally) sure that the exhaust will fit perfectly and that it has been optimised on a rolling road. It's less important on forced induced cars, but on n/a cars, expansion box size and placement is critical to releasing power, something which custom exhaust fitters may not be that fussed about. I'm picking my car up this afternoon following 16VG60 fitting a Miltek system with decat, can't wait!

I like that metallic "Cadbury" type blue/purple colour.

You may wish to reconsider your choice of kit too. The most popular damper and spring combo's are the Koni's assuming you don't want to go coilover. They are top adjustable for compression damping so you can adjust their "hardness". Spax stuff is not generally recommended as it tend to be quite harsh and I 've heard of a few cases of leaking shocks.

I've got the Koni Top adjustable kit. Conventional rather than coilover. It's set on it softest setting and it's just firm enough to corner flat but not rattle your teeth out. It lowers by about 35-40mm.

That putty sounds like a good idea, a bit more permanent than grease!

These looms are great. A good tip though for all uprated loom users: As the original VW multi plug thingy is lost, the clips and connections are "naked" and open to salt and grime. Pack some thick grease around the plugs where they clip into the original VAG plug which will stop the contacts being exposed to the air and rusting and becoming "dulled".

It bugs me when there's some jumped up tw@t in an M3 lookalike E36 316 with his pikey aftermarket "angel eyes" side lights and his fogs on. Thing is, if you have your side lights and fogs on only, you can't see anything in front of you anyway!

A court ruling has handed power of F1 to (I think) 3 banks. However, Bernie has offered loads of money to the "poorer" F1 team to get them on his side. The better F1 teams run to run their own race series in 2006 which should give rat face cause for concern!