martyjmcfly
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Everything posted by martyjmcfly
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Stainless steel VR6 6-2-1 exhaust manifold - whats the best?
martyjmcfly replied to martyjmcfly's topic in Engine Bay
If you don't wrap the manifold will it definately melt the pipes above etc? I've been told all will be fine it left bare and shiney. -
Stainless steel VR6 6-2-1 exhaust manifold - whats the best?
martyjmcfly replied to martyjmcfly's topic in Engine Bay
I've been a cheap tight git and bought a Raceland manifold.......... I was ready to part with the cash and was told the only remaining Supersprint manifold left in the country (Superspint main distributor warehouse) was missing the fitting kit! Then of course the Italians all buggered off for 6 weeks on holiday meaning that none would be coming to the UK for a while so i thought what the heck and paid less than a third of the cost of the Supersprint. I also bought it off Tuningleader from ebay. JMR has inspected it prior to fitting it later in October and reckons it spot on with all fittings. It looks damn good and couldn't help but polish it even more! -
I would defo agree with Andy Bryant aka trimwizard. Know him from the West Sussex VW club and he used to work for a very reputable autoelectrical company in Guildford.
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Replace the ISV - if your car has the original one in its goning to be dog tired and won't cathch the revs in time. I had this problem, particulary this summer whilst on long dual carridge way stretches, coming up to roundabouts and dipping the clutch and it stalls witht the red lights flashing. A new ISV and all is fine. Oh and i removed the sound damper as suggested by Mr haywire and The Phirm which may have also helped.
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This is going to be quite a laugh then!
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double-6s, now you're showing off with your new updated spec sheet! I must say very nice indeed! Must have cost enough.
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I'm looking into this also at the mo. Some say a bit sad and you need to go aftermarket but if you like the standard wheels and ride height what the heck! I've heard that VW now source their shocks from a different manufacturer - no longer sachs and boge or what ever. I think the springs are fine to get from VW though and they won't be too pricey. German Swedish do the shocks - better than original from what i have heard and there good on price. Everyone slates the originals saying they're overdamped etc but this is on suspension thats 10 years old. If anyone knows different please feel free as i'm just about to take the plunge on new standard supsension with eibach ARB's. Nice
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Stainless steel VR6 6-2-1 exhaust manifold - whats the best?
martyjmcfly replied to martyjmcfly's topic in Engine Bay
I must admit that spending lots of money on a shiney TUNED exhaust manifold i.e the Supersprint is extremely tempting. I'd much rather spend the money having confidence that its the best. I've sourced a supplier called Tuningwerkes in Croydon who get it from Auto designs who get it from Supersprint. I would think that it would fit a RHD car being supplied from a UK company. It will be interesting seeing how much power increase i can get leaving the VR lump standard and keeping it normally aspirated. Only improving the inlet and outlet flow. Of course i'll probably go down the scharged route like most people eventually. Hey kev - would i loose power if i aquired a Schimmel SRI in conjunction with the 6-2-1, decat and enlarged throttle body? Just wondering thats all -
Hi all - i'm going to go the full exhaust route as i want more 6 cylinder noise from the exhaust and to make my engine bay even shinier. I already have a miltek and will add the decat but which is the best performance enhancing, best looking and best quality stainless 6-2-1 exhaust manifold brand to go for? Is there more than one company? I've heard that Raceland are good but i can't seem to source one - there's no info on the web etc. Is there scope for a group buy perhaps. Cheers M
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Hey Kev - i joined the two tubes that were connected to the top of the carbon can. The now tube assembly sits in place where they were previously held in place by the plastic clips on the side - does that sound ok? - That sentence got me worried thats all!
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Hi, i recently removed my carbon can so as to fit some ducting for the BMC and simply put the small clear tube into the larger diameter black tube with the help from a jubilee clip. Several people have inspected my handy work and all seems to be fine. I have noticed no problems what so ever. The carbon can is spent after 100k miles (apparently).
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Fuel pump relay
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Cheers for the reply - he got the cat changed and it passed so he's ok
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I you check out Bildons website you can get a shrick manifold OBD1 for $1795. In conversion rates thats a shrick manifold brand new for well under a grand!
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Well i was a lot of help wasn't I ............. :oops:
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May be a bit late but G werks do a shrick sump - it does cost tho
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He he he - obviously i've made a few people laugh etc about discussing a poxy french car. I must appologise for even bringing such material to the forum. I just thought some techy's would know a bit about MOT emission data thats all and try to help my work collegue avoid paying for unessecary expensive parts....... :oops:
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Realistic prices for recaro leather-good condition
martyjmcfly replied to stevie_f_2004's topic in Interior
I have black leather recaros and the car is plain black - it looks good but i bet it would look better with beige seats + door cards and all. What gets me is why the hell is the headlining grey/white. If buying a Corrado with good condition leather recaros i would add £1500 to the cars value. -
Totally off the Corrado and VW side of things i'm sorry but here we go. My work collegues naff tacky as hell 206 1.4i has just failed it MOT. Not a suprise it being French - it's only 6 years old for crying out loud!!! The Peugout main dealership/garage (from where he bought it from) have said it needs a new Cat but from the emisssions data sheet that doesn't ring true for me. The HC levels are well within limits 30ppm (max allowed 200ppm) so i would have thought that the cat is fine - its burning excess unburnt fuel off. The emissions failed on the Lambda 1.061 (max allowed 1.030) so does this mean its just the lambda to fault and needs a new lambda probe? Needless to say that the Lambda probe is covered on the warranty, but the cat is not! Any info would be mosty helpful. Cheers M
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Nearly blown up my idle stabilizer sound thingy again!!!
martyjmcfly replied to martyjmcfly's topic in Engine Bay
Cheers for the knowledge kev M -
Nearly blown up my idle stabilizer sound thingy again!!!
martyjmcfly replied to martyjmcfly's topic in Engine Bay
Ok its booked into The Phirm 8th May. I'll get them to bridge the sound suppressor as well as other things Any ideas as to what is causing the backfire? Does it sound like a head rebuild will solve it? Possibly a sticking valve? -
A few months ago i posted a topic up about my idle valve sound suppressor blowing up. The foam from the internals had shot back through the idle valve, through the rubber pipe into the big curved intake pipe and even through the MAF into the air filter. After much cleaning all was fine until.......... dun dun dunnnnnn when starting on Sunday it started with a big thud and a funny squeak and then stalled. It had happended again for chuff sake. Blue crap in all the same chuffing places. What to do? When starting it seems to happen with a big thud most times. Is this normal? If not what is needed to sort it? Tim at The Phirm suggested starting with quarter throttle and after doing the cleaning and replacing the sound suppressor once again!!! the quarter throttle method has worked on the crashy start has worked? Any suggestions most welcome as i don't fancy removing anymore blue crap from my beloved VR :)
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When the doors line up correctly and you get that clean line as was intended the day the car was born it feels damn good! :D Pleased to be of service dcuk All i need to get sorted now are the cv boots and tappets then i can start to appreciate the car once again by giving it some. Have it!!! he he he Friday's here people have a damn nice weekend!!! (still chuffed with my new door)
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Any adjustments as far as i'm aware are via adjusting the striker bolt i.e what the locking mechanism on the door catches on. You need to loosen the striker bolt just like undoing a bolt. I used the extra long driver that i use for the spark plugs. If your doors stick out then the bolt needs to be moved inwards slightly. Once happy fully tighten and hey presto!
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New door fitted and well pleased. It took Saturday, Sunday and Monday to complete. It was a most satisfying job I must say and with a great result at the end. Everything swapped over was cleaned and re-greased where necessary (side impact bars and window mechanism etc). Halfords riveter worked a treat. The level of work put into it far outweighs what a coachworks would have done but they work to time limits and that is where it all goes wrong And here are some photos as proof. (Please note the car has not been cleaned and as such looks not that impressive)