martyjmcfly

Bugger - replacing the tappets/lifters then it is - The Phirm here we come!

I changed the belt last weekend as i noticed it made a dry wispy noise (more noticable under acceleration), almost like a brake pad slightly touching the disc (if you know what i mean). Changed it and hay presto know naff wispy noise. I changed it a couple of years ago with one from GSF. I had a new tensioner fitted couple of months back just for the hell of it. My car is now on 92k and the belt was from VW.

If all goes well i'll post a picture just to show my handy work (a picture of my C with a door attached). Nice

Well blow me apple cart over. Halfords are really starting to impress me lately with what they sell.

So that would mean aquiring riveter and rivets. Would B and Q sell such a tool and the rivets or is it specialist tool shop?

I'm replacing the drivers side door on my C as it has been anoying me for an age. Previous accident damage from previous owners and bodge job repair. The door has the ripple effect and looks a different shade to the front and rear panels. So i searched for a door in good condition - Cheers 'mark 2 gti' - which Tornado Red. I stripped what was remaining (not much) such as top part rubbers, central locking etc and took it to my friendly coachworks and had it sprayed to suit - they did a top job really impressed 'Culbourne Coachworks' in Ashvale Surrey shout out. I think i'll be fine matching wires/connectors up etc its just the window bit. When i bought the door the window was sold and so its bits that fix the mechanism to the door were drilled out (original holes still original size). What do i use to re-fix etc. Any advice greatly appreciated. Martin

Or just forget to mention to my bird to be careful opening the door into walls, posts etc each time she goes to get in/out

Sorry guys, been away from the PC for a few days. Oil is changed regular as you like but as dr_mat says it is probably not worth worrying about. Still it is nice to know others have the same. When you start a damn nice looking car you don't want to sound like a tight git who can't maintain it properly so it would be nice to sort thats all.

I've just spent an hour on the search and nothing seems familiar so i'm sorry guys (n gals). When the cars cold (vr6 92k miles) and started there is a tappy noise. After 30 seconds or so it clears and the cars as smooth as you would expect. I thought it was the auxilliary belt as it was making that dry grating noise on acceleration so i changed it with an OEM belt and the tappy noise is still there. Is it the tappets or a belt to a pump? I love to take it to the garage but by the time i'd get there the damn tappy noise would have gone god damn it! Any help most appreciated

Merci

I'm putting the trims back on after carpark arseholes and am wondering what to use. When i took the trims off there were two thin strips of a grey foam type tape. Where can i get this stuff from so that i can put the trims on with the confidence that they wont fly off because of wind resistance and wet weather? Any input most welcome

When it missfires is it a low revs i.e idle speed up to 3.5k and over 4k its fine?

I painted mine with Halfords grey primer, Halfords VW silver and Halfords Clear laquer. It looked excellent if i don't say so myself - real professional look until my local garage dripped some brake fluid on it - cheers. So if you do and get a good job done remove before having work done or you will cry like me.

Why thankyou :)

Been on to Sparkplugs.co.uk and am faced with two spark plug types for my late 94 VR -Standard/Platinum spark plugs BKR5EKU £3.71 -Iridium spark plugs BKR5EIX £6.99 Now which way do i go - high or low. I'm tempted to go most expensive iridium. Has anyone tried the expensive ones? Cheers Martin

Someone sees your car going fast, their jealous/chav and got nothing to loose, not made it in life etc. just do the speed limit and avoid upsetting people that take things too far. I do that where ever i go as there are so many people who want to mess up whats good in someone elses life.

That's spoilt it now - i suppose a lot of blood would have appeared?

Ok thanks all - i'm sure your all bored to death with suspension talk. Cheers Martin

Cheers for the input everyone. It has kinda helped. What i want is to maintain the ride height and actually improve the handling of the car. Do any of these mods improve the handling of the car or just allow for larger wheels? My point is a car manufacturer spends millions of squid developing the suspension and wheel size for a specific car so it handles at its best, so why change this setup if you want to keep the original wheels for the car. Whould a standard engined VR6 with new standard supension go round a corner quicker than a standard engined VR6 with non-factory standard supension?

That was his hand flying off = i now feel sick :pukeleft:

My cars got standard supsension, the cars 12 years old with 90 odd K miles. I like the standard speedlines and i like the standard ride height. I have been advised to get a Gmax kit which lowers the car 35mm but i think the car would look crap. Do i get uprated supension or not? I mean can the standard suspension be improved over the factory standard to improve the handling or do you get these suspension kits just to fit larger wheels? Would GSF VR6 suspension kits be as good quality as genuine VW? Any input greatly appreciated. Cheers Martin

Cheers Roger matey! That has made me smile you git but well done for spotting it - you have passed your english test :lol:

Give 'The Phirm' a call - they are just starting to do an EIP kit for the VR6 specifically. Check out EIP's web page and look in envy at the video clips Stage 1 300 Bhp Stage 2 350 Bhp Stage 3 450 Bhp I'd go for stage 1 - bolt on kit, fitting time 10 hours and its a low pressure running at 5-6psi so no major engine work required, just a THICKER gasket to lower the compression. I believe costs including VAT £4000. The Phirms quality of work is top notch i can vouch.

If i had just sold a car and had cash burning a hole in my pocket i'd buy a 4 motion. If i had as many cars as you however including a VR6 (you love the 6 cylinders) then i'd keep the economical TDi provided it was similar milage to the 4 motion. What about a W8 4 motion Passat. Similar size to Bora and if you spy on AutoTrader a good example with 50K miles can be bought for approx 10K. The fuel can't be that much worse than a 4 motion as its only approx 1 litre engine capacity bigger.

Uprated headlight loom to avoid crashing when the sun goes down Quickshift so the gearbox becomes a normal one