martyjmcfly

You gotta love those damn cubes! :)

Good to hear you liking the brakes cheese! No, Im not saying that Mk4 rear hubs have tapered bearings. I think the hubs I have are machined from rado discs, into hubs, see what I mean? I think its best I get some pictures up to show you, but I cant do that until I get back to the car next weekend, sorry :) Hi guys, i've got the same vented rear 280mm setup as you VRtrickster. Except i just handed the car over to JMR :) As far as i know the rear hub is modified with the discs straight on/off with no bearing type affair - i need to have a closer look myself before Inters.

possibly connects to the top of the oil filter housing, two main ones to the front and a smaller one with less rubber sheilding around the connections behind

Doesn't it connect to the top of the oil filter housing, there are two rubber shielded connectors at the front and a third like that one behind???

i think from memory its on the top of the engine and hidden by the plastics on the chains side, can't remember the part number but will have a look tomo if needed. you loose about 30 bhp if its knackered. Crap fuel economy i reckon is lambda related

Hi there - next port of call is the G40 sensor, its only 20 odd quid. I had poor performance, changed it and all fixed. How recently was your lambda sensor changed. I had a new one fitted approx 1 year ago but due to a bodged plug repair emphasised by steam clean it knackered it. I was getting mid 25 mpg. Now shes back to normal :)

Update - all sorted FLIPPING YIPPPPPPPPPPPPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE :D The steam cleaning did me favour in that it highlighted a bodge job on the lambda probe loom plug. Some monkey put a speaker connector on the end section. The plastic that holds the proper connector in place was knackered and there is no way on hells earth that the pin on the lamba connector had a proper connection. The wiring was loose going into the plug so water must have got into the plug throught the lack of insulation. When i was speeding up the fuel economy was getting better for F sake :lol: So there you have it job done (during the process of locating said problem/previous bodge all three temp senders were replaced as was the coolant and every sensor plug was cleaned with contact cleaner) :)

try typing in Google "john mitchell racing". All the info is on his web page. John is a cool guy, very up front and knows his stuff. I went to him saying i wanted bigger rear brakes and i now have a car with 288mm rear brake discs. All the engineering/design is his own. Really impressed with my car now. Fantastic :)

I got it steam cleaned as the flipping rad neck exploded and made a mess :) I'm wondering which parts control/affect the idle air/fuel mixture?

Hi all, just had the engine bay steam cleaned and all is fine and dandy me thinks. However, when i started it from cold for the first time i left it to warm up to clear the windows, all seemed fine. A couple of minutes later the engine started to dive really low and just catch itself almost stalling but not if that makes sense. This went on for about 30 seconds and then it was fine. During the extremely low reving action i attempted to rev it thinking it was the ISV needing a clean but this had no effect, it almost did the opposite. When i say low reving i mean how the hell did that engine not stop! The engine stall light actually came on then went out as it recovered. Its lucky i wasn't driving as i would have been in trouble. I cleaned the ISV thinking it would sort it but it still does it. After it sorts itself out the car drives like normal so it must be temperature related and affecting the air fuel mixture at a certain point The searches i've done bring up G60 problems but those idling problems seem to be constant not like mine which is fine after its sick period. Any help mucho appreciated guys!

Has any one tried the Bilstein B16 PSS9 kit - i've heard that this kit is the best. Its fitted to Porkers etc.??? Either way, will H&R ARB's front and rear fit with either KW or Bilstein coilovers peeps?

Would be interested in knowing what price you will be paying for this and is it a 2.9 ABV and are they as good as from when new i.e as VW eith same power outputs etc. Cheers M

Oh damn, i'm going down the KW variant 2 route instead. Its the best long term due to the true anti corrosive parts plus if the Cs going to be made to go faster, the standard won't be up to it. + the rear anti roll bars but not sure about uprating the front one. Talk about turncoat. All these decisions to be made................ and these beers i've had tonight :) All being fitted 19th of this month 8)

Hey Justin, i thought fishing was the reason why you had missed all the Fox Pub West Sussex meets. See you down there soon maybe in a VR??? If you do get one don't take the sunroof apart :) Martin

My Mums got a Probe and i'm sorry but i think its a cool car. She got it brand new back in 1997, its the revised version with better wheels, full black leather interior and with gold body work and i think it looks good :) Driving this in my teens before i had my own car is what got me loving V6's. The engine is sweet and it handles well. Obviously i love the Corrado more but i do have a sweet spot for them. If Ford put a more powerful engine, say 230 bhp or similar to the Fiat Coupe then it would be a different storey - nice one Ford you twats

Result - some of my wonger and discount on my next set of wheels. Cheers guys except you won't be getting another set of wheels from me. I got a phone call and had a wierd conversation (not with the MD) in which i explained the problems and they replied with stuff like - thats wierd as our spray booths aren't made of wood type of crap. I replied with if you were charging me x per wheel to put right then you must have seen something brown to put right :) killed him dead I asked them is it standard practice to charge customers further to put quality problems right when returned and the guys response was - it depends what is wrong with the wheel. He couldn't explain what he mean't by that. So there you go folks

Letter to the big man being posted tomorrow unless the posties are still on strike fingers crossed :)

Mave - Its not just one guy in a workshop not cleaning his spray gun. When something is returned it should be sorted, they were unhelpful to me, they charged extra to sort it - they are mental! Forget the tyre company, they get money from fitting new tyres to refurbed wheels, the extra cost demand to sort was from Pritsine themselves. The returned wheels have a different job number to original. I spoke to Pristine myself to try and sort it out but they were really unhelpful - the women dealing with the issue is off today lark. Guys, I would not be posting this thread up if I had been shafted by my tyre company. Pristine organise collection and delivery with their courier company, they pay for collection and delivery. Pristine are to fault on this one. Don

Hey all, I’ve just had a mare of a time with our good old favourite, well recommended and trusted Pristine Wheels. I took a set of standard VR Speedlines to my local Pristine agent tyre company with total confidence that I’d love them when they returned. This would be second set of speedline i'd taken to them (i've got 2 sets :) ) I get all my tyres done there as they take car not to mark the wheels. The wheels themselves were in good solid condition, no kerbing or damage, just flaking lacquer so no magic repairs needed. When returned on inspection the 1st box contained the usual spanking condition finish to the wheels as you would expect but the 2nd box was different. The top wheel had a small splinter of wood (1mm x 1.5mm) in the top coat of lacquer, the second wheel had marks from where bubbles had formed and burst in the lacquer about 2mm x 2mm. Both where on the visible side and on the main large spokes of the wheels so why was there a quality control check sticker on the wheel. The one eyed company dog must have checked them. Not what I expected. Paying all that money and the company's name is Pristine - I couldn't live with them. Couple of months and there'd be flaking on those problem areas. The time of collecting the wheels and returning the wheels was 1 day, still in the box (the full set are still without tyres). I returned the two problem wheels expecting it to be sorted with many apologies but what I got was a demand for £15 extra per wheel to sort the wheels!!!!!!!WTF Now they had my wheels so what do I do? I managed to haggle it down to £15 for both by explaining it was their shoddy workmanship that was the problem. Why have i got to pay more just to sort crap work. The repaired wheels have a thicker coat of lacquer to the good ones. The small lettering on the wheels is no longer clear. Who knows these ones may now last longer :) So I’ve paid nearly £400 to get some wheels refurbished and been smacked in the face with the worst returns policy I have ever come across. The finish on the inner part of all 4 wheels and inner rim is no way as good as the previous set of wheels i had done 2 years ago. Its like they painted on corrosion, not fully rubbed down. They have simply gone down hill. So all I can say is I WILL NEVER USE PRISTINE WHEELS EVER AGAIN

Cheers for the info Kev, much appreciated

SACHS it is and i'm going OEM top mounts as i've heard that Bonrath are either bust or fail earlier than OEM. I've heard that the rear arb is the one to go for but does anywhere them seperately? Cheers Kev for the rapid repsonse by the way :)

Cheers Dr Mat, "GSF use Sachs Advantage or Boge Turbogas shocks for the VR" I'm going for the GSF as last week at MOT time there was a lowered C in the same time as mine and the clearnace of the splitter when the car was put on the brake testing equipment was nil! Which is better - Sachs or Boge or are they both identical if i get to choose?

Wrapped my manifold this weekend - what a bugger of a job! I'm glad i don't A) wrap manifolds for a living B) work in the factory where that crap is made C) fit wrapped manifolds on VR6's - those bottom studs are absolute gits Having just been out for a drive the difference is instant. More power and i'm not cooking the rubber pipes/everthing in the engine bay. Recommended 100 % Just need to sort out the slight blowing from the middle of the exhaust which is have now created. This took me start to finish 1.5 days to take maniold off, wrap and put back on and i will never be doing this again!

Being completely honest no problems with mine at all. I haven't heat wrapped mine nor have i got round to retrofitting my heatshield which is another saturday job. I would say this is a must as it must affect the throttle body. I had new engine mounts fitted all round with a VT at the front so this may have helped with limiting flex at the join to the cat? who knows? Still pleased i got it fitted as it gives the car a more characterised noise at low revs amongst other benefits. If a standard BMW M3 has them fitted they must be there for a reason.

Oh Bollarks - just ordered a new plastic crack pipe from my friendly VW dealership. Sorry no pic until Sunday when i take all the bumper, front panel and radiator out of the way. I'll try and kill it with this attack of wording, here goes :) What i did was 1)use the original heat exchanger effectively as a spacer as i have the metal braided lines and i just couldn't fit the sandwich plate on with out this spacing. This works excellently. This bit ain't important i'm just letting you know how i went about it :) 2)by pass the original heat exchanger by connecting the rubber pipe from the crack pipe to the rubber pipe to the head with some copper tubing in between with ridges at each end to stop the rubber tubing slipping off. What i wanted to know is = is there a one piece rubber pipe that can be used from the crack pipe to the head (by passing the the original heat exchanger). If you were able to use the original pipe work Kev without causing stress on the fitments then i have effectively got my pants in a twist :iamwithstupid: Needless to say that during this creation of a reply i have just ordered from gruven: a metal crack pipe + all the other bits while i was at it. If you block off the heat exchanger hole on the gruven metal crack pipe do you also need to block off the connection to the head? If so is it just a case of existing rubber pipe blocked off? Cheers guys for being patient Martin