CoxyLaad

ok another small update. For those of you who are considering doing a 4wd conversion without the use of a golf rallye boot floor and cross member, this is how much boot floor you need to take out. What I intend to do is fit a piece of 80mm*40mm box section steel between the chassis legs as a mounting point for the rear axle. The reason I have cut so much of the boot floor away is that I am going to fit the rallye fuel tank also and it just wouldnt fit with the original floor. I will make all the relevant brackets to support the fuel tank in its correct place, then I will make a false floor up for it.

great, so why edit it so it becomes nonsensical? tit

how the hell did anyone know what this guy was on about from post 1?! I have read it about 6 time and cannot make head nor feckin tail of it! speak english man.

I know I know! (but then again he did tell me)

franks factory flooring (I love carpets me)

Yeah, do it!! The only issue I could see is if you weren't using the complete R32 wiring loom. I would imagine that the DSG box would have its own electronic controller, that would be a node on a CAN(data) network, and it would need to 'see' the engine ECU and instrament cluster as nodes, for it to work. (educated guess of course) I have read the wiring diagrams for it, it interfaces with the abs/ESP/traction control unit, and the engine ecu...its a good job I have an R32 installed along with the 4motion abs/ESP/traction control unit then isnt it? ;) Wiring it up shouldnt be a problem, I know where all the inputs need to be. If it fails on me it would be a bit of a knacker like.

Has anyone driven one of the dsg equiped new motors? I am almost certain that stage 2 (read 22) of my project once its on the road is going to be a DSG install. I have been doing some reading and dont think its going to be too difficult to install. What does concern me is the apparent reliability problems they suffer. The 'internet rumour' relates to the amount of power they can handle but from what I can gather the power has no direct relation to the reported failures. Any thoughts?

bah, we should have snuck a subtly modded vr in there. Something like kevs or harras ;) Then we'd see who had the bigger balls! Mine would look totally standard and would fit the bill prvided they didnt look under the bonnet, or the boot, or the fact that it only had 2 wheels at the time lol

He has got a corrado - Ban him! lol LMFAO! :lol:

hes installing a Joe Cell in the boot. Think happy thoughts though, or it wont work.

thats a big hole

in what way? I had a big garage built onto the side of the house so I could work on the car in the warmth. She got an extra bedroom, bathroom, porch, and 50% extra on the size of the front room as compensation, she was happy. I am lucky if I manage 5 hours a week on the car, so it doesnt really cause any problems. Plus now that I am actually still in the house when I am working on the car she can pass me cups of tea out and stuff lol :lol: (hope she doesnt read this)

it does. Get your hands dirty. Its not as bad as it seems ;)

definately cam belt tensioner

doesnt the thicker bar at the front induce understeer though?

nope, I tap keyboards for a living. I am not going to take the credit for inventing/discovering everything tho. In a community like this you have friends that you can draw on their knowledge, add a bit of your own, do a bit experimentation etc etc. Its more a progression of ideas over something totally new and ground breaking. I got my mate Andy to do the welding on the haldex bracket as although I can weld, I trust his welding more than mine in that application. A lot of the stuff is trial and error - and I have to admit it was almost a total fluke that the jetta drive shafts fitted perfectly. They would have been too small as the haldex diff is a big bugger, but the extra width on the outside gained by the VR6 rear wishbones countered that and maintained almost the same distance between the haldex cup and the wishbone bearing. All we did was get it so the prop will run smack down the middle of the tunnel.

Lee are you saying go for the 25 mm front, or dont?

no bother. If you want pictures and stuff and can send them to you.

rallye, or jetta syncro to be more specific. The beam (the big long circular bit) is off the jetta syncro, with the haldex diff mounts fabricated to it. It then has a set of VR6 syncro rear wishbones on it, to get the wider track. the driveshafts are jetta syncro with 4motion inner cvs, and they all fit nicely with no cutting. Poly bushed up and still able to fit the anti roll bar. how do you like those apples ;) I know I should change my avatar but I you can tell by my car, I tend to take my time somewhat :D

good to know lol

yep you could say that. :) I think I am due another tidy up session tonight tho lol Nice to meet you the other night. I didnt make the connection between you and you forum persona!

thats mine. i didnt like the look of the dutch dub kit, nor was I prepared to pay the money they want for what is essentially some cut bits of steel that i would have to weld up myself. Mines sturdier anyway ;-)

well, this is the story at the end of play tonight. just need to cut the rest of the floor out, and then make up my space frame and I am in business!

little bit of progress. Heres something you dont see every day: The synro/haldex hybrid rear assembly appears to be quite a well balanced beast. More pictures this evening when I do some more work.

yup, I planned for it to go into the r32, then also acquired an early black leather trim (well the rear bench and door cards) I am thinking that I just obtain a set of black leather recaros and go for teh full leather trim.