CoxyLaad

bout time you did something on it you lazy malingering git!

I think i have come to the conclusion that is it actually impossible to get on while its still on the prop because of the way its designed. Saying that the feckers managed to fall out with consumate ease so that statement is probablies a steaming pile of sh't Another attempt tonight, and if it still doesnt work I am taking my big psycho sized axe to the car.

mad is an understatement, I am currently furious

nice logic but I am still sat here 25 quid better off if I go off that.

I am trying to rebuild the CV on my prop, as all its innards have fallen out in storage. Can I feck get those balls back in. I have been undernieth the car all night up the fecking eyes in moly-bollock grease and after 3 hours I am no further forward. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

just seems a bit strange that it went into the garage ok, had a head gasket done, then come out with a overheating and pressuring up the water system problem (THE classic symptom of a blown head gasket) Thing is without looking at your car in person then its impossible to say. Could well be a blocked rad, but it does sound suspect the way you typed that!

:roll:

what happens with your no claims? does each car earn their own? My concern (provided I can get multicar policy on an r32 corrado syncro and a fazer 1000) would be that should I go for individual policies in teh future one of my no claims would be scrapped.

hey mate, the car looks awesome - thats some nice work there! you going back to a solid sunroof panel then?

hes cut nothing structural there, the chassis legs are still intact

bah!

I'll show you mine if you show us yours ;-)

cheaper than a corrado vr6

there was one on here for 1700 quid last month...

yes that is true. The spark plug are in the head on the 24v anyway, so you may encounter a slight compression problem! The price of 24v motors is coming down. There is no point in investing a large amount of money on a 12v (unless you already have a lot of money invested in it) I think people are put off by the wiring.

I personally think you are looking for a problem that doesnt exist sam.

quality! Still at the 'biting anything that goes near her head' phase then?

you can have mine, its doing my nut in

that is the key point right there. Its the ratio of sprung to unsprung weight what is the big factor

what the feck are yous slavering on about?

does it also not depend on how powerfull your car is? The inertia of the wheel increases the harder to try to accelerate it yes? so the less power your car has, the less you will feel it ;-) the morale of the story is, if you cant feel the change with 17s, then your car isnt powerful enough :lol:

stick at it. You will get a flutuation in idle when you put the lights on if you have no idle stabilization system. Mind you I never had problems with my idle

I take it that is tongue in cheek? anyone got any pics of it?

not sure dink, the 2 setups in question were a 240bhp duratec and a 350bhp busa turbo lump so the weight theory goes out the window. I also think you are wrong about going slower round corners too. My mate does track days on his motorbike all the time, and is pretty good. He rides with the same lads, he had a cbr 600 for a long time and could extract every bit of performance out of it. He then when and bought a race prepped R1, and all of a sudden his mates were all over him through the corners. He every time he tried to put some gas on the front wheel would lift up, so he had to back off. Obviously he got better at it, but never had the abillity on the R1 to corner like his lower powered 600. Same with the caterhams, these 2 different engined motors were within half a second on this given track (cant remember which one but it was a big track) the turbo was quicker but only by a knatts chuff.

whats he done with it like?