Cnut

That's interesting, I didn't know that the dipstick only reads 1 litre of the overall engine oil capacity. I would say have probably covered about 300 miles since it was changed...

I did get a garage to do the work and I checked the oil level a week after and all was fine. Sorry to hear about your problems, that would really hack me if that happened to me :censored: I'm beginning to think maybe there was an oil blockage somewhere in my engine and after taking it out for a run it cleared it which would explain the massive drop in oil?? Thankfully my engine seems fine but I dread to think how long it has been running like that for :(

Good question! I was parked on a slight slope but I moved the car back to more level ground and checked again 1 hour later and it was still the same. I topped it up with synta silver it took about 2 litres :shock:

No I don't, the oil temp seems to settle at 98 degrees and occasionally goes over 100 degrees when thrashing it.

I think my car hates me at the moment! About a month ago I had new sp 263 cams, tappets and all mounts changed along with a fresh change of oil with synta silver. Today after giving the car a good wash I decided to check the oil level. To my horror the dipstick showed there was absolutely no oil in the engine at all :shock: There was a tiny bit right on the end of the dipstick but that was it. Yesterday I went on a 100 mile round trip to let the car stretch it's legs a bit. I was driving moderately hard but not thrashing it too much :) The car has done 135k and had the headgasket, timing chains and tensioners changed 25k ago along with a regular oil change every 5k. The engine makes no funny noises, it doesn't smoke at all and it uses oil modestly. The question is what could have caused the engine to loose so much oil in a short space of time? There doesn't appear to be oil leaks either... Cheers

No warranty though, I would rather spend a few quid extra and get one with some warranty personally.

I have been having never ending issues with my alarm. First the fob was continously draining batteries but I think I have sussed this by winding the knob on fob and the batteries seem to last longer than 2 weeks now! The latest issue although not affecting the operation of the alarm is when I activate the alarm the indicators only flash down one side of the car, I have no idea what's causing this and I'm tempted to rip the whole thing out! Has anyone else with a standard alarm had this problem before? Cheers

Hi, could you pm me your payment details for the drivers door please. Thanks Phil

I think I would personally go for a VW exhaust if you want quietness

I have noticed my VR6 makes exactly the same noise as mentioned, worse when cold but still there when hot but quieter. Just to let everyone know my dad has had a brand new R32 for a couple of weeks and it makes the exact same type of whine when cold so I think it must be a VR6-R32 thing!

I know, I certainly won't be using or recommending them again! I just hope it hasn't caused any long term damage? The cams are very good indeed although I have the feeling im not gaining their full potential yet until getting them remapped.

Well, after a few days wait I finally got my car back. I had the Schimmel 263 cams installed along with new tappets, engine mounts and gearbox mount. The car has now been transformed, it feels much tighter and I no longer get an annoying jerkyness on off throttle. Performance wise I initally couldn't notice much difference but after a few miles I think the ECU readapted itself and my god does it go well now :D It pulls hard right up to the redline whilst before it felt alittle lathargic past 6000. It turns out the timing was out too, it was retarded by one tooth (caused by the cowboys who changed my timing chains :bad-words: ) and to think I have been driving it like that for the past 14000 miles! Next on list is a Stealth remap, Magnex cat-back exhaust and a complete overhaul of the suspension bushes and mounts. Im off to enjoy my new old car :D

http://www.nothingtoxic.com/media/12061 ... a_Dyno_Run :lol: :lol:

Thanks, i will do that

I cleared them, went for a long drive and rescanned and it's not displaying any fault codes now apart from the abs error. I think the maf error was caused by me unplugging the sensor whilst the engine was running yesterday. I'm not too sure about the lambda one though, its probably best i rescan again when the engine is stone cold.

Hi, I have just been playing around with vag-com and these are the results i got: VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Chassis Type: 50 - VW Corrado Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,25 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Controller: 021 906 258 CP Component: MOTOR 2,8L 6-Zyl. Coding: PMC 1 HS Shop #: 0261203565 3 Faults Found: 00525 - Oxygen Sensor (G39) 03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent 00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 03-00 - No Signal Readiness: N/A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Controller: Note: Excessive Comm Errors The engine was off but ignition on. I take it that means I have a duff lambda probe and MAF? I'm not too sure what the engine speed sensor is though? Cheers Phil

Have you thought about getting a bike rack?

My words exactly!

I didn't know that! how much should i expect to pay for labour?

Would they not take the engine out to do the mounts? Mainly gaskets then which hopefully aren't too expensive!

I'm planning on getting a local garage to install my schimmel 263 cams and change the tappets at the same time. I was thinking about getting both engine mounts + the gearbox mount changed at the same time. Is there anything else worth changing whilst the engine is out? and what sort of labour cost should I expect? Cheers Phil

Securing the speakers directly onto the door frame seems to be the best for sound. I currently have Audioscape door pods with 6.5" drivers, I am certain i'm not getting the best performance out of them even though the doors are heavily sound deadend. Would it be possible to mount 6"5 or larger drivers using your approach? I would love to experiment myself but my fabrication skills aren't quite up to your standards!

Why don't you just dynamat it then you won't need to bother with the membrane plus better sounds for your mids too 8)

Cool, I'll give it a go!