VEEDUBBED

Photo of the handbrake cowl? Black? any cracks or splits? Cheers.

Fender, don't bother wasting time and effort by using the Bmw lenses on the second series fog lamps, I've got a brand new one sitting here that I wanted to try and modify to fit, no chance as they are bigger and wider than the Corrado Hella glasses.. €30 thrown out the window by experimenting.

Ask your mate if he still has an older emulator that can extract the main look up tables present on the G60 eeprom. What kind of mods. have you carried out on the engine since you fitted the sns chip? What version of eeprom are you using, stage 1 or 5? Cheers.

If you mean the black fog lamp housings then your stuck because The units are complete, the fog lamp glass is bonded onto the plastic housing. Ideally you need a decent second hand one, very hard to find uncracked and cost a small fortune when you do find them.. The grilles are the same 3 slat type, they aren't model specific. The red Vr6 badge could be expensive though. Same thing regarding the bumper air inlet grille, there are 2 different types available, again, if you do find one that's not damaged or cracked they cost a fair deal, I've seen them up on ebay going for €190+ Bollox to that.

If the cat or silencers were indeed buggered, I reckon the engine wouldn't rev that high to cause an overboost, you'd probably get the exhaust manifold glowing red hot too. Get a decent boost gauge and don't tap into the fpr's feed hose, it needs its own independent line, preferably the original g60 boost signal pipe that is connected to the blue boost sensor located on the back of the instrument panel, as the factory originally provided. You could also use the inbuilt MFA's boost function too.

I've done At least 3, 1st one was using an old kkk24 turbo off an old Audi Quattro. Digifant was fine, just use a chip written for a turbo application, add a wide band air/fuel meter, 8v turbo manifold off eBay, Volvo orange 300cc injectors or Saab red top versions, rising rate fuel press. regulator, better intercooler than the Shiyte g60 one.. Plumb in the turbocharger with water and oil, add an oil return to the sump or use an old golf gtd sump as it already has one. There's more but that's the basic layout.

Bung a turbo on there instead, for the price sellers charge for that crap charger one could nearly buy an entire car..

Obviously, try using a decent, accurate boost gauge, prefrebly taking a direct reading off the inlet manifold or MFA signal pipe.

Start with the easy things first. Change the coolant temp.Sensor that sends the signal to the ecu for temp. or Swap over the blue and Black Sensor plugs to see if the engine runs better, the black and blue sensors on the front coolant hoes flange both have the same resistence. Check the Ohm reading on the CO pot located on the boost tube, should be around 450/500 Ohm, they are sometimes miles out. Check the full throttle switch works. How are you monitoring actual boost?

Tan, Sorry For the late reply to your Message mate, i haven't checked my messages in a while. I need to first check and see if the injectors are still usable and not stuck,they've been sitting for 25 years idle.. I'll rig them up to a fuel pump and pulse the injectors.

Ok Wayne, no problem mate, keep me posted.

You might find a strainer type that's on the bottom of the pump, just give it a blast with compressed air to clean out any muck accumulated. Let me know how you get on and explain the gear change problem, too much play? Can't get gears properly? Let me know mate and I'll give you details outlined in the Bentley manual. Cheers.

You won't find a Haynes manual for the corrado mate, they never produced one.. Only for the Passat or mk2 golf. I've got the Bentley version which is ok I suppose. Only two pumps present, the lift pump and main, large pump under the car. The lift pump is located inside the fuel tank, it's part of the float unit. Lift the carpet, remove the black metal inspection plate screwed down with 3 cross head screws, Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes, electrical connector, then undo the retaining ring and gently pull the whole unit up and out of the fuel tank, being careful not to bend the float arm whilst removing. Mark the float housing to tank first to keep the float aligned at the correct angle. Try feeding the pump directly off a spare 12v source ( AVOIDING sparks and well away from the open fuel tank's petrol fumes..)and see if the pump runs for a bit or if it runs then stops.

The fuel pressure accumulator is located there. The high pressure fuel pump does indeed buzz, depends on what kind of pitch the buzzing is though, loud or just a hum? Did you change the low pressure supply fuel pump or the high pressure one? Could be the intank primer pump that's on its last legs and not providing sufficient fuel to prime the swirl pot and main pump. Next time it cuts out, connect up a length of wire and a 12v test lamp, bring the test lamp with you whilst sitting in the driver's seat and see if the light goes out when the engine cuts out, if it does, check the fuel pumps relè, connections on the pump, wiring etc. Sounds like a classic symptom of a buggered primer pump though.

I might have mate, just need to check the numbers later on when i get a few mins. to pop down the garage. What model corrado is yours?

Welcome along matey. If you need parts, just shout.

Not so much the friction plate as the pressure plate that won't hold and slip after 200hp. Either get the plate reinforced or get a proper, uprated version, preferably like the Sachs version that has a solid hub and holds up to 400Nm of torque. Do it once, do it right but at €500+ it's costly.. Which reminds me, I have a spare Competion Clutch with a copper 4 puck disk that I used briefly years ago on a Turboed corrado that got pranged. Only 800km's drivin on it, still has the running in hash marks. Whilst your in there, get a reinforced clutch operating arm too, they sometimes bend with the O/E clutchs, imagine a heavily uprated plate..

Perhaps the seller means the basket filter that wraps around the main high pressure fuel pump, the one that's inside the black plastic swirl pot under the car. Sometimes I've found a small filter fitted inside the fuel union's banjo bolt that screws into the fuel inlet port on the fuel metering head. I'm only aware of one large filter fitted to all corrados and that's the main canister type fitted opposite the main high press. pump.

Just unscrew both of the links and change them mate. Probably be tight so use a good fitting spanner as they were thread locked in At the factory.

Still looking for a spare 86.4 crankshaft.. No problem if it's off a PG g60 mill, 8v gti mill, 16v KR..even an ancient damm golf 2 gtd 1.6 crank would do, the're all the same forged components anyway. As long as it's an 86.4 stroke, nothing else. Cheers.

Righto fuzz. Pack up 4 of the buggers and let me Know what i owe you mate.

Rome, Italy..

Those is the ones required matey. The two long ones that go through the middle of the frame and the two shorter versions that go through the wishbone. Total 4 bolts. I don't need the two short, stubby ones that hold the back of the subframe, opposite the ARB.

Front driver's wing gone to Ferrarifeet.

No mate, the subframe ones are bigger and longer, 17mm bolt head for the bumper ones, whilst the subframe ones have a 19mm hex.