VEEDUBBED

Christ, that's a still alot.. I should be a millionaire by now the amount i've done over the years.. If you wanna diy it, or try, my advice is free mate..

Probably put the CO meter's 'sniffer' above the coolant header tank to see if it detected any unburnt HC's present, this is sometimes done as there's no way your gonna get unburned HC's in the cooling system otherwise. I've never heard of a machine that tells you if the headgasket is gonna let rip soon, i wonder if i bring him my lottery ticket, his machine could maybe tell me if i'm gonna win..

02j's have their weaknesses, plastic bearing cages opposed to 02a's metal versions, weaker syncro rings, diesel gear cogs have finer pitched teeth than the 02a versions, dubious cast metal output shaft bearing carrier opposed to the older pressed metal one fitted to the 02a.. I've opened and shut loads of both type of 'boxs and in some ways it seems that Vw was going backwards instead of forwards with the 02j. On my turbo 16v 'box I fitted a Peloquin LSD, old version bearing carrier, metal pinion brace, inner bearing that supports the output shaft has a metal cage and I used the older style 02a syncro hubs and rings. 02m's are weak in certain area too, plus a load of work to fit too compared. The last mod I'd like to do is use the grease plates that effectively seal the inner driveshaft CV joint's horrid, black grease within the cup so when you remove the shaft, you don't risk getting the bloody stuff all over the place, these clip on covers were used on the 02m driveshafts that are 100mm, opposed to the smaller 02a joints. Fit a reinforced clutch operating fork, along with a decent updated clutch too.

Sorry for not getting back to you Ron. I have done my arm/shoulder an injury (shoulder tendons) so i can barely lift a mug of dam tea, no way i can move the engine block mate.

Could be many things mate, Possible partially blocked injector/s, fuel filter clogged, sticking hyd. tappet.. I've got a set of Vr injectors that have been sitting for years, all 6 stuck solid.. First thing i'd do is to change the pressure switch, regarding the oil pressure, does the buzzer also come on with a bing, binging sound? I also had a mega low miles Vr oil pump sitting on a shelf for donkey's years, that too also had a stuck press. relife valve!

Righto everyone, Does the UK parliament have its own, in house barbers/hairdressers/coiffeur?? If it does, I wonder how many hours they work and how much wages they get. Get this, here in Rome, within the senate, the Italian house of parlement, 2 barbers work 3 days a week, 8.00 till 1.00pm each of these fukkers get €136.000 a year wages. I'm speechless.. What's it like down there? Does this $hit happen within the UK's government??

Right, i've Got a few spare 'raddo engines in bits. Both late 2.0 valver 9A's have a 27mm nut holding the cooler in place but the other older KR mill has a 24mm version. Disregard what I said about the deep socket, I needed that when I fitted a Volvo oil cooler onto my turboed 16v years back, you'll be fine with a normal socket.

Your gonna need that socket the long/deep variety too, no way a normal socket will clear the threaded pipe bit. Tomorrow morning I'll measure a few I have spare but 99% it's a 24mm size.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, I've done my right arm in so unpacking and general moving around is rather challenging. Anyway, I managed to find my last g60 switch setup if you still need it mate. Send me your email and I'll load up a few photos of it and send them on to you direct. Cheers-Andrew.

Unfortunately I only have a few cracked ones left.. I'll keep my eyes open to see if maybe a set comes up.

Thanks! always love to help others try and do modifications themselves. I reckon the easiest way forward would be to get a used nitrous kit, I def. recommend Highpower kits that are UK made, are excellent quality and miles better than the Competition.. I fitted a used kit I bought off eBay a few years back, if you want I could post up a few photos of how I fitted it. The kit is as hidden as possible, thanks to the bull$hit laws forbidding any mods. On cars here.. Always start small, 25hp boost then gradually increase the power after modding the engine, metal head gasket, ARP headstuds, bigger bore exhaust (nitrous creates much more exhaust gas, this creates more exhaust back pressure) reinforced clutch, gearbox..etc.

I've had a look but it's not in the box.. i've got another 7 to check though.. Fear not mate, i'm sure it's there amongst loads of other bits. I'll get back to later on. Cheers.

Yep, Rome it is.. Don't let that put you off mate, i've Got a courior who does very good prices. I've sent parts all over the world.. Send me your email and I'll send you a load of photos. Cheers-Andrew

I'll check in the garage mate, i'm certain i had one or two.. Cheers.

I may have one decent side left spare, can't remember 'cos i've got so many cracked ones too.. I'll pop down the garage and check. Cheers.

Easy mate! Just buy my 19.000km block, crank, rods and pistons!! job done. Let me know if you want any photos. Cheers-Andrew.

I've got loads of turbo bits left over, mainly because i've done quite a few over the last 15 years. Who's gonna be doing the work? are you capable of removing the cyl. head, sump and pistons? If your gonna get a garage to do all the work it's gonna cost a fair whack. To turbo it properly your gonna need the obvious turbocharger, oil lines, water feeds, injectors, fuel line, modified oil sump pan, shave two mil's of the standard pistons and add two metal 2.0 ABF tri-metallic head gaskets as a simple, cheap way of lowering the static compression ratio to around 9.2/1. The main crux is the engine manegment, i used to use Weber/Marelli ecus and their loom that i modified to fit the corrado. You need to set a goal and aim for that, big job either way though..

Add a nitrous kit, turbo the engine or do as suggested above, KR 1.8 cams, headwork, etc. Do your want to keep the engine normally aspirated?

That's basically it mate, I'd also unscrew the center threaded shaft as it makes it easier to relocate the cooler and the orings. Ideally i'd fit a proper Mocal or similuer cooler and get rid of the original version, they are known to break and make a huge mess when the oil mixes with the cooling water..

Sorry mate, nothing left over, just the outer mirror shells..

I'm sure i've Got a few mate. If i can manage to pop down to My lock-up later i'll check. Cheers-Andrew.

I wonder if the driver is a member on here..

Whole car? Charger?

Thanks For not even answering My question regarding the handbrake cowl, really professional.

Early type fog lamps were fitted to the first versions of corrado (89-90/'91). The glass can't be seperated easiliy from the plastic surround whilst the first series fog lamps are seperate units that rarley crack, (unlike the later versions) and can be changed seperatly. Early fog lamps look shiyte and are worth virtually fuk all, whilst the second series units are sometimes worth more than the entire car.. Probably seam sealant present on the inner arch areas because there aren't any arch liners present like the ones fitted up front that protect the metal from mud, rain water etc, just scrape it off and reapply something similuer once you've done the rolling.