beavis

LOL... PMSL Alex.. you have just answered the theory yourself mate. The bottle is where the reaction is and it goes cold because thats where the reaction is going on from liquid to gas form, hence why the bottle goes cold. Your missing the point that is being made, CO2 has a negligable effect sprayed over the core as a Gas, if you can get the liquid and the reaction to happen on the core it will then have the same effect as what is happening in a fire extinguisher, all the surrounding heat from the enviroment and solid surfaces is being used in the reaction from liquid to gas taking the heat with it off the core during the reaction. I'm not knocking the systems, just saying that primatively spraying CO2 over the core has little effect, but if the system can be set up so that the chemical reaction takes place on the core you will have the bollox of a system.

LOL... that plumbers spray is good shit....was only a 75bhp Siearra GLS before the spray..LOL. 39psi lol madness

Was chatting to a chap who is 'in the know' about these systems last week. He highlighted a few very interesting points about these systems. CO2 has the affinity to absorb a lot of latent heat when it goes from liquid to gas, the chemical reaction absorbs a lot of heat... However, this reaction in most systems has gone on already and all that his the intercooler is cool CO2 gas which has a negliogable effect on dropping boost temps as once the gas is mixed in with air in the envioroment the cooling effect is minimal. Basically if you can harness the chemical reaction from liquid to gas on the core of the intercooler then you are laughing, if not, don't bother.

Just got back from Le mans!!! Propper mad place and race to Watch.. So anyone here with a Corrado VR6 with number K... COR admit to thrashing about the mulsaine strights on Friday evening, saw it on the Green campsite to. Also a J reg dusty mauve G60 parked outside the toilets of the Green campsite?? The only hooliganisum at Le mans is wild Monkey bikes bombing about the streets, Mini Cooper 's' drivers :roll: pretending to be a 24hr le mans driver on the Mulsainne strights while its a public road and lots of charged middle class, middle aged husbands who have been allowed to go play cars for the wekend genrally causing harmless havoc.

You may want to get the stock VAG oil-water bypass pipes from VAG to ommit the OE cooler matrix.

If still no joy check the ECU earths that terminate wither on the top right of the rockercover or the water outlet on the side of the head. If these look suspect clean ehm up and if you have the inclination to do so run a secondary earth from this point directly to the battery negative. Check with a volt meter to from the postive pole of the alternator to the negative of the battery to see if the alternator is kicking out a good 13.5V plus, anyless than 13 and the car will be dipping into a failsafe mode where it overfuels as a safty parameter. You may also have a failing lambda, you can check this by unplugging the lamba from the harness and seeing if fuel consumption improves. Check all vacume hoses for leaks and splits, replace anything that looks suspect or perished.

Ian is writing a pictorial step by step guide to how to mod a 'Raddo.. Beware Barry Bentley :wink:

Got OE VAG feed lines on te shelf and the fittings in componants to make up the pressure lines of our own in teflon hose, Will not have any oil drains in until next week as the thread into the block is a bizzare one and the fitting come from sweden.

Yep.... but not as expencive as the £86 per injector!!! that greys command from bosch or VAG

Bosch 0 280 150 905 Greens 240cc per min Bosch0 280 150 923 Greys 308cc per min Reds 300/310cc per min bosch/denso respectivly All data collected testing units at 3bar and using petrol as fluid. Figures vary due to different people testing injector CC's at different pressures and using different fluids to test with.

Sory Henny...We used it all up taping Liam's ankle back ttogether after his little inncident at inters.

Levitataion and double sided stickey tape.

LOL..We had the interior out within 20mins the night after the car was in our posession. The removal of 35kgs and 3 binliners of soundproofing was the best mod I think. Earplugs only weigh 2g per pair.

Got a new batch of outlets, the reducing silicone should be here the tail end of next week.

LOL.. sorry.. I just realised it was VR

The original water/oil exchanger we prefer to remove. They can fail and you have a head gasket blown stylee mayo on the blend. Also it brings the whole oil filter stack very close on the cross member, you cannot use the original G60 oil filter as the 30mm stub on the bottom hits the cross memeber. To bypass the original water oil cooler you need to replace the 2 coolant hoses with mk1 Golf Gti items, remove the water/oil exchanger, modify the filter spacer plate which the oil filter treads onto and for a road car use a thermostated takeoff plate.

Think they may have been the lads that me and Darren stumbled into walking back to our tents at 3am .. We were pretending to be German taking the piss out of them!! LOL

LOL.. glad everyone had a good time.. was nice to have a social gathering of a funny bunch of charecters. Liam managed to tear a ligerment in his ankle on sat night wrestling after too many JD's.. LOL.. We finished our inters weekend in Worthing A+E last night when the effects of alcohol had worn off and he realised he was injured. He is on crutches now..LOL

Yep, 6002 and 6003 are the correct denotations for the bearings. C3 refers to the tollerence, this is the clearence left in between the ball bearings and the faces they run on. C3 leaves plenty of tollerence for ex[antion in hight RPM applications. RS denotes the bearings are rubber shielded packed with grease, other codes such as 'zz' refer to the bearing having metal shilds. '2RS'is the correct spec for a charger.... Although not a lot of people know that RS bearings come in a lot of forms packed with different greases. Some specs are not man enough for a charger. RP?? not sure on that spec.

When we have a car in with a failed charger we strip the whole boost system off and steam clean the all components out. If the engine was turned off ASAP after the charger blew usally the intercooler filters all the charger shrapnel out. If we find large particals of greaded charger in the TB we take the head off to check that the bores are not scored or the valve seats are not damaged. In the majority of cases the intercooler is reuseable as long as it is steamed out maticulously. We also leave the boost return system off ay car that has blow a charger as manditory, simplily because there is no physical way that a phreak piece of debris from the grenaded charger can be recirculated into the replacement charger eliminating the risk of a repeat and costly repeat incident. Replace the oil and filter on your car as debris will most possibly passed into the sump via the oil return and also check te oil return is clear too.

The FSE regs are not really suitable for use with forced induction. They do not function correctly under vacuum and they have a rising rate as opposed to the more linier rate of the Bosch reg. We have binned several FSE valves this year as they have been the route of fueling issues that many customers cars have had. Raising fuel pressue requires the duty cycle of the injectors to be reduced to compensate so the engine does not run rich.

Chargers are very temprimental units if not serviced at regular lnetervals. The Charger itself is a sturdy item if looked after. As regards charger faitalitys, the common cause of failure is the top shaft bearings chucking their grease over a period of time, the bearings then run dry, expand with the heat of surstained high RPM and then the balls seize in the cage locking the bearing and the movement of the scroll pops the bearings though the top casing. As regards Jabbasport, I'm not going to slag them off as if it were not for their existance in the 1st place we would not be in business as their would be very few chargers left to service. When we take on a rebuild we replace all bearings as a matter of course (barring exhaust housing in most circumstances)regardless of condition as it is not worth our reputation to have a faitality for the sake of saving a few pounds. This is for our peace of mind aswell as the customers. The bearings and seals we use now have taken a lot of time to source. Their as a lot of 'off the shelf' bearings and seals that are adequate for the job, but we have found that they have their downfalls. Last year we were in a finantial postion to allow us to have seals and beraings made to our own specifaction which, without giving the game away comertially, have overcome all the common traits of seal and bering failure. If somone is paying for a full rebuild, that is what they get, regardless of whether the unit has covered 300miles or 40,000 miles. In saying this, their is one bearing in the charger that we do rarley change, that is the bearing in the exhaust housing, this bearing is a phosphrous bronze caged it which is bombproof. The spec of this bearing is way over spec for its application in the charger and they are usally within factory tollerence after 100k miles. In saying that, if they have needed replacing I have replaced them. A charger never fails though though failure of this bearing, i've seen many and even on totallly grenaded chargers that have been run without oil, this bearing is the sole surviovor, If the rest of the chargers bearings were to this spec we would never have to worry about bearing failure. Both ourselfs and Darren offer free charger health checks. This is for new and old customers. For customers who have covered over 30k since their last rebuild ,or if the unit has never been rebuilt the charger will need a full overhaul, for those to which it is a interim inspection we take the charger off infront of the customer and go over with them what is in need of replacing and show them why. Interim inspections of around 15k, usally we replace any oil seals that look a bit dodgy and as a matter of course on a G60, the top bearings and small timing belt. Customers are charged accordingly in this circumstance for what components have been used and only for what have been used. I much prefer to rebuild chargers as opposed to sourcing replacement units for customers.

LOL.. Darren ran off Saturday morning flapping, just saying 'It's on it's way!!!! laters' Baby G is ere...

We sell quite a few rebuild kits per year. There are some people who are insistant that they are going to service everything on their car themself, including the charger. Chargers are less complicated inside that most people anticipate them to be. In saying that you have to have a certain degree of mechanical knoledge and common sence to take on such a job. Using the correct components and attention to detail fitting the components is the key. Had a chappie last year who proudly told me that he had got all the seals for his supercharger for 20 quid.. a lot less than we sell them for.. he smugly laughed as he walked off.. and I smugly laughed knowing that 20 miles down the road he would have a cloud of smoke behind his car as the cheap seals he had used had delaminated as they would not take the heat of the engine oil passing though the charger. Never cut coreners when servicing a charger.. the charger will always have the last laugh.. at your expence

LOL.. we do everything back to front.