beavis

LOL..sounds like this http://www.pitstopdevelopments.co.uk/vid/Blithbu.avi I'm not a big fan of pullies under 65mm for daily use. The top shaft bearings on the G60 charger are under a lot of load. At consistant high RPM cheaper brands tend to chuck their grease out past their sheilds, the bearing then over heats, binds up and locks the charger up..hence poped top casings. Realisticaly a G60 blower should be inspected every 15-20k miles on a 68mm pulley. This does not necessarily mean that it needs a full rebuild, just a interim service replacing the apex seals, oil seals and timing belt. As Henny says, slihly higher engine compession is a more reliable method of making the most out of your charger without overworking it[/url]

LOL... Oil seals last exactly 1000miles on a 58mm toothed pulley.. I did manage 1100 miles on the 3rd rebuild.. then got hacked off with rebuilding my charger at short intervals so reverted back to 65mm. In saying that I was getting 25psi out of a G40 charger at 6k rpm. All in the name of reseach.

Boost figures do not come into the equation, they area rough indication, flow however does. A car registering below 15psi manifold pressure but with a wild cam, flowed head and exhaust etc may require higher flowing injectors even though the manifold pressure seems low, hence more air is in the cylinders not the manifold. Air fuel ratio is the true indicator. Adjustable FPR's are a accident waiting to happen on a forced induction motor. They do not work on vacume and their rising rate is competly different to that of what barry bosch took all his time and maths in creating. Fine tuning mixture is a little more complex on fuel injected cars to that of old skool carbs where you could twiddle a screw adjust your mixture. As stated many times in the past, ISV's do not leak, they bleed, they bleed because they are told to bleed by the ECU, it is not a fault, just a inherent part of the digifant system. Stopping them bleeding is a process we are overcoming from a electronics point of view and not mearly a check valve. A check valve physically stops boost bleeding, but starts a domino effect where the ECU interprits no loss of boost as a problem and retards ignition timing, status quo, loss of power. Do ya home work.

Charger oil seal do let a small degree of oil though as the nature of their design is not a 100% barrier. At high engine rpm there is also high oil pressure when fed from the engine, this pressure is on the threshold of the seals so a small layer of oil in the boost hoses will always be evident being even on a brand new charger. If you are starting to get oil pool up in the pipes in quantity a rebuild should be considered. Over time the heat of the engine oil and the detergent in it hardens the lips of the oil seals reducing their efficentcy to seal and allows excess oil to pass. On the same note, excessivly worn main shaft bearings allow oil to pass as the rock in the bearing elongates the sealing lip, lifting it away from contact with the shaft which also allows oil to pass. A word of warning NEVER use diesel oil on a G car, I learn't this lesson one sunny Friday afternoon when I used to work for Royal Mail , finished all my reports for the day and decided to change my oil before I went home, once i'd drained it and took the filter off I realised the new Synta oil was in the boot of my company car which a collegue was using. I decided to use the supply of post office van oil for the weekend until I got the good stuff back, big mistake.. 20 miles later I was puffing smoke. Stripped my charger when I got home to find the oil seals had delaminated and the rubber gone to a soft mushie mess as the detergents in the Diesel oil had killed the rubber. Oil coming back out onto the induction filter with a traditional boost return system is either signs of a failing seal or excessivly heavey breathing engine. There seems to be no set pattern to the blow off hiss you get at part throtlle when boost return is removed. I remeber Furkis car was extreamly loud even on a stock pulley when the boost return was removed. Other cars on a 65mm can be virtually silent.. weird!!

Torque!!!!!!!!!! ye.. we love it. Thats what we are looking to achive out of our new engines rebuilds. Huge BHP figures do not interest me at all. Many people who aim for the big BHP figures end up with a car that is gutless midrange, but has a surge of power in the last 1000 rpm of the rev range from 5000-6000 rpm. A car with 30bhp less but with a strong flat torque curve would be off up the road before the big BHP monster had kicked in. The principles we are using with our new engine rebuilds just concertrate on getting the torque curves nice and flat to give pull from down low. We are rasing the compression ratio on the G60 and G40 lumps so it is not necessary to run silly small pulley sizes to produce enough boost to provide good torque. The engine is doing all the work instead of the charger, a 8:1 compression ratio engine will need 10psi for arguments sake to produce the same effective compression as a 9:1 compression running 5psi. The charger is getting a easier life and you are maximising the boost you have got. The engine is also a lot more spritely off boost. We rebuild a G40 engine, no other mods apart from raising the compression, stock pulley size running 9psi. A standerd car with 8;1 runs 113bhp and 111ft/lb torque at 3400rpm. The new engine with the only mods being. 69cc capacity increase and compression from 8:1 to 9:1.. LOL The graph speaks for itself. 140bhp/140ft/lb at 2500rpm That polo outruns our Mini cooper 'S' by miles, admitidly the Mini is heavier, but has been rolling roaded at 190bhp with 160/ftlb torque, but peak torque is way high in the power band.... at the moment.. the mini is shite.. no torque = no smiles.

Hi there, ye thats a old picture that needs to be updated on our site now. We still supply the mocal ones but we have varios designs of our own now which we have improved upon. The first generation of our own tank was simular to the mocal one but used screw on -12 alloy hose fittings as the mocal ones are made copper and are a smaller diamter restricting breathing. We had a sight gauge the same but used a more servicable fiting than the mocal item. This tank works on the principle of collecting and condecing the vapors then breathing off via the seconday outlet to vent to air. We opted for the weld on fittings too as it is possible for those who want some gucci factor to thread a braided dash hose stright to the tank. The latest version of the tank is of a simular design but omits the second outet fitting in favor of a small breather filter. The tank collects and condences the vapors but breathes off though the filter. We have ommited the sight gauge too as it is a bit of a over kill when you can quickly take the breather filter off and see the level yourself. It would take about 8-10 thousend miles to fill the tank on a healthey engine so is not a worry. We are currently having another batch made up so all is well. The set up you have now is quite ok from a mechanical perspective, but over a period of time you will find a bit of oil being deposited in your engine bay or the floor pan of your car. Don't quote me on this but I think that cars do have to comply to a enclosed style breather system such as a breather tank to conform.

Glad our ya happy Stel..

The more VR's we see the more potential we see to turn that old touring engine into a 'Super tourer' :lol:

Ye, we offer free popadoms to customers who travel over 500 miles.

AHHH..LOL.. can think of someone elses wife i'd like to take in the passenger seat!! Nothing crude.. just wanna see the husbands reaction LOL.

Stel's G60 is a mighty fine example, some very subtle body mods that go a long way.

The CO pot figures are just rough indicators to set the car up if you do not have access to any gas analysing tools. Roughly speaking the CO pot settings end up between 600-850ohms on cars we set up on the wideband. We set the CO pot to run at 14.5-15 AFR at idel to pass emmitions and economy (well as economic as G60's get). The CO pot only controls off boost fueling and at part throttle on vacume. I in doubt then set it on the richer side of the scale. Do not fear though, you ain't gonna melt a piston with a incorrectly set CO pot, weak fuel pumps and failing injectors are the culprits of that. If you have a spare day, give us a bell and we can give your car the once over, Wide band, fuel pressure etc to check all is sweet.

Ahh..daisy donovan from the old 11 o'clock show.. Nice and petite as not to weigh the car down.. G-man gonna have probs with passengers now.. his front passenger seat gone walkies.

About 8k Furki....

As Gavin has said, heating the bearing housings up with a good old black and decker heat gun for a few minuites is a very effective way of creating enough expantion in the housings as so the bearings can be easierly removed/refitted, without undue force. The mai function of the spray applyed to the charger upon reassemble is to gum up the apex seals to create a air tight seal in the chambers giving the charger good compression. If you are unsure of anything as you are reassembling your unit, give me a bell and i'll be happy to talk you though the easiest method of approching it.

:roll: OK..i'll behave :wink:

LOL.. but it is a modifacation :wink: :wink:

It is all good now.. the old mechanic down road made a specific roof for us in his garage and had it looking like this in a hour :lol: :lol: :lol: pic thumbnailed-vr6storm

Check out the nearly finished results pics thumbnailed-vr6storm

We drafted in the help of the self proclaimed 'Surgen of steel', Stuart, for this convertion. He is the owner of the G60ed Polo G40 with 220bhp, he has got a bit deranged over the last few months and is a self confessed Corrado killer...... Videos's for your amusement. http://www.pitstopdevelopments.co.uk/vid/stuiehammer.mp4 http://www.pitstopdevelopments.co.uk/vid/stuieangle.mp4 LOL

Hi there, no need for applogies, as with everything in life, at some point complications happen for whatever reasons. As i've said in the original post i'll be more than happy to do the work for you and the offer of reibursing you for fuel etc still stands as long as everybody is happy thats all i'm concerned about.

Think the guys name is Matt from club GTi Worcestershire.

Yep.. a good solid base is essential before you even think of tuning it.

I was gonna say they are big buggers anyway. I was speaking to a chap last year who has a Golf VR6 5 door that has various odd and sods done to it, think it was 3.1 and running 276bhp normally aspirated if I remeber correctly. Sounded quite sick and went like a monster aswell.

Do AMD rebore the throttle body and then replace the original diameter butterfly with a big one? or do they simply just port the throttlebody chambers and use the OE butterfly? Idea's spinning about ere :lol: