beavis

LOL.. I'll tell Stu that.. To be honest, i'd be happy to drive it if it was a Nova merit if it had that engine in it.

Don't swear.... no T***O's to be seen. Cool inlet temps and gas flowing from the x-flow head, torque from the extra CC and raised compression, plus a few other obssurities ironed out. With the G60 blower running a 68m pulley I'll be wounded if the engine does not produce a least a minimum of 230-240 bhp on a 68mm pulley, but I'm confident that the torque should be quite sick low down, which is what we are really looking to achive. The turbo cars show nice big BHP figures, but anyday i'd have a supercharged car with 40bhp less, but with a sick flat torque curve. The maths should work out to a lot more bhp than mentioned, but we will see, power is there to be extracted. The criteria fand maths for stu's G40 was just to crack the 200bhp barrier, so the 219bhp figre was a bonus.

Ye, is a little insane to drive. The 1st night we tried to run it on the standard 150cc G40 injectors and it was'nt having it, we then fitted corrado greens and it used the fuel up on those by 4000rpm. So, we ended up grafting in a 3bar map sensor to the ECU so it could read the 24psi manifold boost it is producing. The car is now running the 300cc red injectors. LOL It is quite mental, 2nd gear you have to feed the power on slowly, as with 3rd, 4th is just stupid and the other day Stuart, the owner was undertaking me in in 5th gear on the motoway when I was dropping my car into 4th and booting it. Quite sick. Should be making an apperence at some track days, santa pod and the strip at inters to cause a stir. Sounds like a jet at full pelt. The exhaust is expelling such a volume of air it whooshes for fun. I ran the another customers car for them. The car is completly stock barring our 9:1 1341cc forged pistons and a flowed charger. It even runs a stock sized charger pulley. The car ran 140BHP and 140 ft/lb torque. Peak torque being at 2500rpm dropping to a flat 137 ft/lb though to 6000 rpm. Not massive figures, but compared to a stock engine car 113bhp 111 ft/lb 3700rpm the higher compression and extra CC gains show. That car is being trated to toothed belts next week, so the 8psi it is running at the mo will double to 16 odd. I'm personally going to be looking for silly torque and at least 180bhp out of that car after this. Quite good as the G40 stuff is a good learning curve and inspiration for the G60 kit that is in the pipeline. Cannot wait now to built a sick G60 base engine using thye x-flow, Darrens hand crafted inlet manifolds and some sweet loving LOL.. should provide some amusment

The sach units are pretty good. It is the low down torque that kills them, stadard units do not have enough clamping pressure on the Polo's. The corrado's have more substantial units OE so should not be too much of a issue. May be a case of suck it an see.

Not strictly a corrado I know.. but this, mutent. A car we have been working with the owner on. 1341cc forged piston G40 lump, which are crossflow as standard, big exhust valve head, G60 blower strapped on ran off a our toothed belt system, tubular manifold, twin inlets with the boost being returned to air. We have knew the car was pretty powerful the other week when it fried a standard clutch in 10mins and we had to fit a paddle to transmit the power. Then when it started wheel spinning top end of 3rd at 90 and top end of 4th at 120. Ran it on the rollers at Aldon automotive on saturday. 219BHP 197 ft/lb torque!!!!! thats out of 1341cc's !!! So the 1.9 x flow should be a intersting set up!! :D

If you have access to a pressure washer, it is a good idea to rince the intercooler out with a degreaser such as 'Gunk and blast it out with pressure washer, if the unit is 2nd hand. The amount of crap that builds up in what appears to be a clean core is amazing. Plus you may not know the history if it, i.e may have come off a car with blown G and full of a chargers ashes.

Another option to minimialise the risk of heat soak eveporating fuel..... X-flow head :lol:

LOL They are darn strong. Another option is 'Arrow' forged rods which are the 'Daddy's, but they do cost a little more that the set of forged pistons sitting on top of them.

Think of it like a absailing rope, prefer to dangle off a cliff with a rope that is only caperble of supporting 14kg if you weight 12kg or a rope that is caperble of supporting 30kg. Both ropes do the same job, just bigger safty margin in the latter, so if somthing goes tits up then you have a bigger net.

There is only so far you can go upping the pressure, the injector atomises the fuel as it fires. When upping the pressure too much you risk just turning the injector into a hose pipe and just jetting fuel in un atomised. This leads to a poor burn in the cylinder

Fitted one of Gavins looms he made up for us to fit the Polo's. I was gob smacked to the astounding difference such a simple mod could make. Gav.. you have saved one or two foxes from road kill in the last week. :lol:

Suffered from the same problem on a customers car the other day. Went to move it into the unit 3 times after refitting the cable and the hook repeatedly pulled off the gromet. Bent the hook a little moe and problem was solved. In saying that I had to do a contorsionists act to get in to bend the hook and the reason the hook bent in the first place was from a stickey cable... so we now carry 1 LHD and 1 RHD throttle cable in stock for the next car that kicks up the same prob, next time it will simply get changed lol. Off the top of my head I think the cables are only about 17 quid so it is just worth getting a new one.

General rule of thumb. All G60's running a 65mm pulley should be running on reds, if you are not obtaining at least 16-17 psi on a 65mm /ported then you should be looking for boost leaks or the integrity of the charger itself. A well ported charger in good condition can also pull in the region of 16psi on a 68mm, strong cars on 68mm can use up the max fuel provided by the greens, again red tops should be considered. Another factor is cams, although only 14-15psi may be displayed on the boost gauge it has to be considered that this is just manifold pressure displayed and not what is in the combustion chambers, so you are not getting a true picture of what is going on. A simple way of looking at it is there is going to be more air in the cylinders on a cammed engine with a which will need more fuel to keep the A/F ratio in equlibrium. Again Red tops should be considered as greens will be streched or not providing enough fuel. Invest in a A/F gauge or get a wide band lamba test done on your car if you are in doubt. One factor people overlook is that the orginal injectors are getting long in the tooth now (although they are pretty reliable) and are starting to give up the ghost. We have seen several G60/G40's the latter part of last year go on meltdown on one piston though a injector dying and running the particular cylinder lean. The cars were all of variying specs aswell, completly standard to tuned to the nuts. Those sticking with greens should consider getting their originals rebuilt and flow tested for peace of mind. Red tops expand the safety margins, they are well within safe working parameters in a g60 lumps, where as the greens are running at their limits.

LOL.. I did ..then i PM'ed 5 mins later when i remembered.

All good quality hammers are made in Birmingham. LOL.

I'm not too conversant with the use of the 16v head used in conjunction with a G60 blower. As regards the bottom end we have been doing our homework over the last few months on what components are compatible with what, best compromise of cash to BHP and in what area to spend the majority of the money. It is possible to gain an extra few cc by combining a mixed array of components, i.e. long throw cranks etc etc, and I’ve even heard rumour of people going to the lengths of using normally aspirated pistons of French origin to get the maths to work!! (Well for ten minutes) and weird 8.4563 :1 compression ratios as tuners claim that it is 'The optimum compression ratio' when in fact it is just what the compression has worked out too when they have used what pistons are easierly available to them off the shelf. Ultimately if you look at what is originally there lurking in your engine bay it is all pretty good. A solid block with decent water jacket, strong rods and it all fits with no crazy complicated brackets. Admittedly the KR block is a better foundation as a base block as it has better bottom end breathing, but besides that the PG is pretty solid. People get clouded in their thinking by the larger the number in the 'cc' factor, the larger the BHP/torque figure is. True to an extent but there are many other factors that contribute to producing a good all round packages. We are sticking with the standard PG crank, stress relived G60 rods but are opting for to use forged pistons made for us to our own specification. The pistons are the G60 lumps weak spot. The bowl in the piston creates some nice heat spots, hence why 9 times out of 10 they melts down on the outer edges fusing the piston and rings to the bore wall. We are boring out to 83mm, a sensible degree to bore without taking too much meat out of the block. The forged units will also allow us to run 9:1 compression quite safely, plenty of meat on the piston crowns and between the ring lands to cope with the extra brunt of upped compression. The raised compression is the key to where we are going to get the power out of the engines. The money we have saved on not chasing extra 'cc' on buying cranks, new blocks etc will be spent on effectively running the 9:1 to it full potential. Running 9:1 will give a higher 'effective compression ratio', so in essence the engine will need less boost to give the same effective compression of that of the 8;1 engines. The engine is less reliant on boost to give power and torque and has more mechanical power, in reality a 68/70mm pulley should be more than sufficient to give more than enough boost to put a smile on ya face and working the charger less to boot. The use of the x-flow head and effective intercooling will keep boost temperatures down reducing the likelihood of 'pink'. We reassembled the 1st 1341cc G40 with 9:1 compression last week and were more than happy with the results. The end product was an engine that is very responsive and lively off boost. Silly amounts of low down torque, better fuel economy cruising, smooth linier power with no steps in the power delivery. The engine is all torque which puts smiles on ya face. At the moment the car is on a Stock 76mm pulley and is not fully mapped yet, the only mods to it are a flowed charger, exhaust and induction kit. The car destroys our 190bhp mini cooper 'S' and is like for like of another G40 that has 65mm toothed belts running 17psi boost, flowed head etc but only running 1272cc 8;1. I'm confident now the G60 big brother will respond in the same way with similar way. High compression, low boost temps, efficent head, good breathing and effective fueling. Simple formula. Anyway.. i'll shut up now and carry on drinking mi G&T

LOL.. Ye, we ran our new cooper 'S' in for the first few hundred miles, then it had a good bashing of the lead foot pedal. We have done a few mods and it is running 190BHP now and it is exceptionally free reving. Other ones we have been in have been lathargic a they have been ran in gentely.

Is it a genuine 2ltr?? wrong map + wrong regulator + more cc = lean running . You WILL melt a piston which will leave you with a full bottom end rebuild to fork out for.

ALL sns maps are designed for use with a 3.5 Bar regulator. The maps run a slower duty cycle which throws in more fuel per cycle than a standerd or usual sftermarketr chip. If you are running it with a 3 bar reg, you are effectively running the car well on the lean side. The odd charicteristics you have sounds like the fail safe systems on your car are working overtime retarding everything until there is surficent fuel there for it to pick up and run correctly. If you have hastle setting it up after you have fitted a 3.5bar reg then drop me a line as we are quite conversent in setting up the SNS chips as we fit them day in, day out and I will talk you thoughit.

We have a a few eatons we are playing with for use on our Cooper 'S', although I have to admit i've been siding them up on a corrado with a charger out and a G40 :D . Will envolve a fair bit of bracketry and inovation to get one on. pic.......... http://www.pitstopdevelopments.co.uk/eaton/DSCF0040.JPG As you can see, a little more robust than it's cousin the G-lader.

Or should I say, new now, but will batterd by 2008

A battered old Mini cooper 's' track slut... leather interior and heated seats thrown away to be replaced with a cage.

If it is sodden with water my 1st port of call would be the heater matrix. Don't mean to add burden to your problems, but if it does appear to be the culprit, have a good look for signs of head gasket failure or the the begining of it. The added pressure of a failing gasket into the cooling system is just enough to finish off tired matrix's.

The head of the C is going back on tomorrow, with a OE multi layer gasket to replace the nice fibre 8v GTi gasket some monkey had fitted in the past and some nice new exhust manifold stud in the head, to replace the mashed up ones the same monkey had rounded the bolts off on after they fitted the monkey gasket.. LOL. do I sound frustrated to proceedings being held up.. :mad: .. all will be good after the weekend :lol: :lol: :lol:

Hi, Darren has unfortunatly had to go off to a funeral today. Answering the questions. The cooler is smaller than the sprinter ones, contery to popular belif the sprinter ones are a bugger to retero fit and require serious chassis hacking. Took this earlier, hopfully will get plumbed in later tomorrow. Proceedings got held up by the realisation of the fact that the car it is to be fitted to has a failing head gasket, so I've had to take the head off and replace the headgasket before we can continue with fitting the cooler. We are hoping to realisically get the conversion to within a few pound of £500 for the cooler/hoses/pacet fan/RSR outlet reducer etc. The inlet/outlets will be inside the engine bay and not tucked upnder the chassis legs. All intercoolers are now made in house and we can pretty much knock one up for any car/application given. There has already been some made for MK1 Golf forced induction applications. G40 ones on the way and a few more hidden suprises :lol: ****Mod edit**** pic resized-vr6storm