beavis

Map sensors have are rated in 'Absolute' value. A stock G60 map sensor is 200Kpa (2 bar) but if effectively a 1bar pressure sensor at atmospheric pressure, with the other 1 bar being the vacuum scale. A 250Kpa sensor can be easily grafted into your ECU, but a custom remap is needed to rescale the maps to suit.

We have been developing a bespoke front mount kit over the last few weeks that can be fitted without the need to hack the front end of your car up like some kits do :D See link below for details PSD forum, PSD Corrado G60 intercooler kits

Some can do in excess of that of that, mine runs out of gears at about a genuine 145, on trackdays only of course :wink: A police vechicle has to follow you and keep you in vision, or a cameras vision whist they are persuing you to have any evidence. I can confirm that that van only had one officer (one officer = your word vs. theirs) in it and was not in vision from when it was passed to when you came to a holt as I was out for a plesent drive this afternoon along that road.

If you have a digital test meter test the resitance across the 2 pins of the blue temp sender. When the engine is fully up to temp unplug the wiring harness and test, you should be seeing a reading of between 170-220 ohms. If you are seeing figures higher than these values then the sender has had its day. You may possibly have a weak fuel pump, the symptoms you describe are also indicative of this. It may be an idea to get the fuel pressure tested.

Save your hard earned money and just replace with some 'BERU' items. Most expensive leads are nothing of the sort quality wise.

A soviet tank.. Just add and grind.. Full spec sheets below.. as you can see substantial gains on the T-60 model.. FULL SPEC SHEET 8) A few mods can be made to.. MODS

Those leads look simular to the ones that were on Steve's car when it came into the workshop, which quickly ended up in the bin with the other set of leads the same which two days previous Liam had been electricuted by (to everyone elses amusement). They are very poor quality, cheese strings have better electrical conductivity. Stick to Beru as steve says.

I was introduced to them a few years back when I brought a G40 over from germany with a brand new bastuck fitted. The german I brought it off ran a company who tuned and serviced Porkers, Ferrari's top line Audi's etc and used Bastuck as his chosen brand as replacement exhausts for all the exotica cars he dealt with, hence why he fitted a system to his wife G40. He was quite suprised that i'd not heard of the company as they are highly regarded in germany. The catalog above is all the systems avalible for the Corrado. Jon Marchent is a very helpful chap who will attend to your needs.

Hi, my friend imports Bastuck systems from germany deliverd stright to your door for very reasonable rates. The systems are TUV approved, which mean they fit a little better than other popular systems avalible. The chap you need to talk to is Jon Marchent 07974099843. If there is no reply, leave a message ad he will return your call.

Ideally the tank needs a second hose leading to air venting and fumes under the car so they are drawn out of the engine bay. The tank should condense any oil/water particles out of the vapours coming into the tank from the breather and then the fumes exhausted out of the second hose leading to air. There are no real ill effects of having it just venting into the engine bay besides fumes being drawn into the cabin via the interior fan which can give you a bit of a headache.

Replace the oil breather hose from the oil breather off the head, if fumes can escape out, then unfiltered air can also be drawn into the charger!!

Just about got around this problem now with a few ECU mods and some alterations to the maps for those engines with blowers that produce boost over the ISV's bleed off threshold.

The systems withouth the front box do wrok out quite cheap but are overly loud. A chap I know also imports theses systems and should be able to supply systems with a front silencer for not too much more than the prices you have quoted from Regal. I've just spoke to him and he is going to dig out some favorable prices for me.

How recent is your fuel pump? Does the car run fine once started? Your fuul pump may be starting to get a little weak taking time for pressure to build in the rail surficiently to supply enough fuel to kick the car into life. Other traits of a weak pump are lack of power top end and slight pinking onto transition from half throttle to boost.

Catalog page with full details of corrado system.

PM sent

They are a truly excellent system. I have had one on my road G40 for over 2years. 40000 miles of trouble free motoring. They are well built out of high grade stainless steel and have a very quiet note. The Corrado systems are very well fitting indeed with the hangers welded in the correct place (which some manufacturers have not learn the art of yet) and are avalible with some very understated tail pipes. They are a exceptionally good alternative to Miltek's, Supersprint etc. etc. This is a unbias opion I may add as we do not sell these items or have any vested interest in supplying them. I can however supply you with the contact details of a UK agent.

Yes, removing it, bining it is the best solution.

You can quite safely use a G40 oil filter if you do not delete the original exchanger. The valve system inside is exactly the same spec, the only difference is slightly smaller capacity.

Rather sounds as if you have a weak fuel pump. The new found boost of the serviced charger may just be enough to lean the mixture off enough now that you get detonation and the knock sensor kicks in like a rev limiter would. Get your fuel pressure tested before you confirm a weak pump with a hole in one of your piston crowns. It is unlikely to be your lambada probe whist on boost as it goes closed loop and does not read from it.

When you unplug the blue temp sender it should go into service mode unless you have a second sensor failed somwhere else. Digifant can compensate for one sender failing but as soon as you unplug the blue temp sender the ECU sees its as having two senders down, hence why it will not go into service mode. Check the resitance across the two sender pins on the blue temp sender when the engine is warm, it should read in the region of 250-300ohms. If your sure that the vac hoses are all connected securely and are undamaged check the voltage that the alternator is kicking out. Anything below 12.8v and digi goes into overfuel. You should see a good 13.8v with all electrical ancilaries switched on whist doing this test.

Just don't fiddle with anything whist polishing.. nuts.. bolts.. little kids.. or else we will send Furki around.. :lol:

Ant.. now you have no reason to open the engine bay and play.. Leave well alone now it is working and there will not be a 'next time'. We really should have tack welded the bonnet shut when you left. You need one of those A2 audis with just the inspection hatck where fluids can be topped up...

Sounds realistic Mike.. Our cooper S was kicking out 194BHP and 166ft lb of torque at the fly on stealth's rollers last year with only a few mods. The engines do take a good while to free up to any degree. 10k they start to rev freely, our has covered nearly 50k now in 18 months. The milage has taken it's toll on the suspention now and it has been though several heater matrix's(Soaking the carpet), 5 sets of brake pads and countless sets of tyres. Other than that it has been a pretty solid car. No doubt you will take a little more care of yours that we do of ours so you should have no problems.

There was some good ammusement last week as the old girl came apart... Two footed windscreen removal techniques.