Rpmayne

It's has the mechanical K-Jetronic fuel injection with a distributor. Very similar to the mk2 16v Golf engines except its mounted the wrong way. Abit stupid to have run it out really, just didn't look at the gauge.

This is a problem with an ACE engine (commonly fitted to Audi 80's etc). Finally got the suspension changed and took it for a run. Everything felt fine until I tried a few brake tests and the fuel pump started to make even more noise than it usually does. Then the car intermittently died. Checked the fuel gauge and it was a rizla off the empty marker so just thought I'd ran out of petrol. Limped home, changed the timing chain which I had planned to do anyway(loose as fcuk, surprised it hadn't jumped) then got some petrol in a can and filled it up the next day. Now it turns over ok and I can hear it try to fire every now and again, but it won't start. Until then it hadn't missed a beat, started on the button, idled well etc. Having read a few posts, is the most likely thing the fuel filter? The pump has always been noisy to me so thinking the filter may have been partially blocked and the crap in the bottom of the tank has finished it off. The fuel pump primes ok when turning on the ignition. Thanks.

The second hand shocks I got are the same length as the old ones, so can only think the springs are alot harder than the ones I've done in the past. As an idea, I just managed to get enough thread through on top of a washer on one side to get a nut on. Thought that if I used the nut to pull the shock through on one side as well as gravity I might be able to get the other side on properly, then go back... Stripped the thread so need more shocks now. :x Never heard of these clamps for towing, will have a look in halfords for them tomorrow. If I can get them in that should do the job. Cheers.

Will have a look around for something suitable tonight, think these springs would kill me if whatever I compress them with lets go. Just to recap, the first post description is the normal way people fit the rear suspension to their Corrados etc yer?

Cheers for the pic, good to check when I put it all back together. The springs are well tough, can't pull them through at all. Think I may have to compress them and then strap them up with something, fit and then cut the strap off. For standard suspension its set really hard.

Everythings clear and the shock shaft just pokes through the top mount, needs to go another 2 inches though to get all the rubber bits on. The rear suspension is very similar to the golfs / corrado except the torsion beam is different. The shocks mount in the same way.

I tried to change the rear shocks / springs on an Audi Coupe today and had mixed success. The setup is very similar to the VW's, which I had done before with minimal worries. Anyway, can anyone point out what I've done wrong here: Jacked up the rear of the car up, removed wheels and put on axle stands. Put trolley jack under beam and then undid the shock nuts inside the car. Let trolley jack down, undid lower fixing bolts and removed shocks / springs. .. so far so good. Refitting reverse of removal. Assembled spacers, springs etc to shocks. Loosely assembled lower fixing bolts for tightening when under weight. .. here's the problem Put trolley jack under rear beam to compress springs under cars weight so I could tighten the top nuts. This just lifted the car off the axle stands and didn't compress the springs enough to assemble and tighten. I don't understand what's going on, I was pretty positive that's all I've done on Golfs and the Corrado and its worked. Maybe I've used spring compressors in the past but I can't get them in because there's no room. Any ideas? Thanks.

Probably won't get the value of the work back if you sell the car but might make it easier to sell. The other set of speedlines I have don't look as bad as I first thought, will take a few pictures and put them in the for sale section once I've got the others reconditioned. From a distance they look pretty good.

Took them down to the powdercoating place at lunch and have decided to goto spit'n'polish instead on his recommendation. Turns out he doesn't do a clear coat and the sample finish I saw was slightly ripply which I don't think will look too good. Phoned spit'n'polish and they can do two different colours plus a more thorough refurb for 51+VAT per wheel which includes fitting and balancing of tyres supplied. Next plan is to get the outer faces in standard colour and the inner faces in black to hide the dirt as below (paintshop skills could be abit better :oops: but hopefully get the idea). What you recon? Maybe not completely black but althracite or something.

A big reason for changing the colour is so they don't show the dirt so much so I don't think I could live with white.

Hadn't thought of the kerbing problem, will have to be extra careful. Not sure whether to get them coated black or grey now... Only got 1 1/2 hours to decide, should have sorted this earlier. Or just stay with the silver... I dunno.. Zippy VR6, have you got a picture of the whole car with those wheels on?

It's twilight violet I think, sort of light pearl purple colour. Really would like them darker just to hide the dust, lazy b*$tard in the wheel cleaning department. The sandblasting place can't do two tone coating otherwise I would have gone for black insides and silver outer edges.

Got a set of Speedlines to be taken down for a refurbed this afternoon and I'm toying with the idea of getting them in a darker colour. Saw a mk2 Golf on what looked like gun metal grey alloys and they looked pretty sorted to me. Also hide the brake dust burns abit aswell hopefully which I never seem to completely remove, even with wonderwheels etc. I'm after some openions on colour really, and ideally any links to some pictures if anyone has some? Ta.

I can't remember now, but must have been a few hundred more than the Mahle ones (original make of the pistons used by VW). Think the Mahle 82.5mm ones were about £600. May be worth it if you're going forced induction though, but then would you want a billet crank aswell, which I'm guessing would cost a fortune.

Which bits were galvanised then? Didn't realise any of it was. Only bit I've got on mine is where self tappers have been used to hold the rear number plate light cover on, and the self tappers where the VW alarm siren was fitted. Otherwise none. The rust under the windscreen seal is probably due to some auto windscreen replacement bod scratching the paint up with a hot knife.

I've got two sets of speedlines, both of which need reconditioning. I need to get rid of one set due to space, and I can get them sand blasted and powder coated for about £160 per set. What do you recon they would be worth in tatty condition with no tyres compared to reconditioned with no tyres? Would be easy to get them done at the same time, and would hopefully make them easier to sell, just don't want to loose anymore money by the extra value being less than the reconditioning costs.

Don't think the con rods would need changing as the big end bearings and pins through the pistons (can't remember the name) should take the damage. My original con rods were reused with the bearings and pistons changed. Would get them balanced next time though. When I phoned stealth about getting 83mm pistons they didn't think it was worth it so I went for 82.5mm. Also, 83mm is the biggest the block can reliably go so if anything goes wrong again its new block time. Not alot of price difference between the two sizes of rebore, just went for hopefully the more reliable option. Thought about forged pistons but was put off by stories about the piston slap when cold, and price. Also wasn't planning on forced induction so didn't really need them.

I thought the intermediate shaft only made any difference on cars with a distrubutor. All that my coil pack car had running off that was the oil pump.

Can't see how the bottom chain would make any odds to the cams lining up in respect to each other. The bottom and top chains are linked via an intermediate shaft. They are effectively two separate links, so the cams lining up together can only be down to the top chain. The cam sprockets are keyed to the shafts so no adjustment can be made, so any difference must be at least the pitch of the top chain (not mm's). Maybe the magnet on the cam sprocket for the cam position sensor has been damaged if they took the cam sprockets off, although you would think VAG-COM / Stealth would pick that up.

I don't think the difference between ratios are closer, just the end drive ratio is different so you loose the top speeds in each gear. Would have thought you'd get better acceleration for the cost of maximum speed. The 8v box only allows a top speed of 120mph at the redline in a golf, so motorway economy would suffer abit. Just had a quick search and come up this link, not sure whether the gearboxs are listed here or not. 020 rings a bell. http://www.scirocco.org/gears/

Anyone know of a good Audi forum, in particular a series based coupe? Thanks.

I don't have any experience with 4wd but surely the Corrado chassis has been built around fwd, so although the straight line grip should be better, isn't there a chance it might handle worse than the fwd and limited slip diff route?

I think there are 3 sensors, two for the fan speeds and one for the gauge, not sure which do what though. They are mounted close to the thermostat housing, to the right hand side of the head underneath the inlet manifold. Unplugging each one until the temperature gauge stops working will probably tell you.

The original ECU from the Corrado had a soldered in chip, the ECU from the Golf was a socket type. £5.00 does sound cheap to change, and well worth it. Especially if you want to keep the original chip, cutting the legs off and unsoldering each one individually makes it alot easier. As I say, I couldn't tell any difference with the Golf ECU and chip. Have you checked the ECU relay (can't remember the number), or the immobiliser part of your alarm? If the feed to the ECU is intermittent it could have been mis-diagnosed. My problems started with the engine running fine, then randomly cutting out and refusing to restart. Had it on the diagnostics and it read no errors except it kept loosing comms. A new ECU later, took it to VW in desparation and they found that an immobiliser solder joint in the ECU feed had broken and was only held together sometimes by the heat shrink. VW originally wanted to change the ECU again (thinking the ECU was at fault), I told them it had already been done and then they had a rethink and found the connection. They also found it was a Golf ECU, which at the time I didn't know.

I can't remember the exact numbers but I've got an ECU from a Golf VR6 running on my Corrado. It worked both with the original chip and the Corrado one. So I'm pretty sure yes.