Rpmayne

From memory I think you can just about get to the thermostat housing if you remove the HT leads end cover and coil pack. There are then three allen key bolts fixing it to the head, temperature sender cables and obvously the coolant pipes. The housing can then be disassembled to reveal the thermostat. Be careful to put the o-ring on the right side of the thermostat when reassembling (previous experience :oops:), and changing the o-ring between the housing and the head is probably a good idea. Check the torque setting for the allen key bolts, important so it doesn't leak.

Not sure whether any Corrado's came with manual windows, but the passenger side one has jammed on a mk2 Golf. The window can be moved fractionally by hand so the glass isn't jammed, and the handle does the same. If it's the winder mechanism (however that works :? ), is it an easy thing to change? How does the mechanism attach to the window? Thanks.

I'm going to try this later on as the plastic joint at the top of my VR's radiator has broken. I've got about 3 miles to go so I'm just going to take it easy and keep an eye on the oil temperature, and stop if need be. Does the thermostat feed the top or bottom of the rad? If it's the bottom I'm thinking the cooling system will hold the water until the thermostat opens as it should bypass the rad. It that right?

I am putting the cover back over the allen key socket again, that's caught me out before because I didn't realise it was a switch aswell. I will check the main switch with a meter later, thanks.

The sunroof will always side open well on the switch, but when I try to close it again it sometimes won't budge and I have to manually close it. Mechanically its run very free, it seems the motor doesn't seem to be getting power when I use the switch to close it again. Is there a relay for the sunroof which could cause this problem? I've got a total closure alarm which has caused problems before, could this affect it? Thanks for any thoughts.

I bought mine from GSF (http://www.gsfcarparts.com), can't remember how much for now. Just asked someone at work and apparently sintered bronze is cast and can be better than standard because it can 'absorb' more oil so lubricates better. Something about fine holes in the material. Think the ones I bought were just standard.

It was only last night that I saw some of those wheels on a Scirocco. Think they still look as good but just abit less maintenance. Found out that Spit and Polish can do it for £50 + VAT per wheel. Mine are in a pretty bad state, just trying to weigh up the options. Did you get the BBS's reconditioned or where they already in good condition?

Maybe its just that the bumper overlaps the plastic inner arch covers so the bumper needs to be pulled away from the wings on each side to clear them?

I'm in need of reconditioning the speedlines on my VR6. Thing is I have seen two tone alloy wheels on a porsche where the inside is black and only the outside faces are silver. Thinking this would save cleaning all the brake dust off all the time. What do people recon? Has anyone done it / seen wheels like that?

Always down to how the engines been treated, but when things do go wrong with VR's its fecking expensive. That's what you pay for a relatively unusual engine design. Eg. Finding someone to rebore mine was a challenge, most only do in-lines. When it runs right though I wouldn't want anything else, loads of character, refined, wicked exhaust note, and never seems over stretched ( I don't take it past 6000rpm but it never seems thrashy like my old 16v golf at the same revs) and it's something abit different. Wouldn't go back to 4-cylinders now given the choice.

Sorry, was no posts when I started that... Abit slow on the typing today.

You can just replace the bearings by removing the disks and knocking out the old ones, then pressing in the new ones in (or carefully tapping in square). Fiddly knocking the old ones out but there are cutouts to get a screwdriver or such in. It's only a thrust washer and nut done up finger tight with a castle nut to stop it undoing. Could try removing the castle nut and nipping the other nut up I suppose and see how long it lasts.

When I took my VR front mount off it wasn't oil filled. There's two rubber parts, a larger part that sits above the cross member, and a smaller part below. The top part just had loads of holes through it to make it more flexible. I changed the bottom part for a turn2 polyurethane replacment (£20) and it stopped the engine rocking about but hasn't introduced any extra vibration. Overall happy with that although this could probably still fail and give the bonnet some extra power bulges. I'm personally abit sceptical of these completely solid engine mounts. It must introduce more vibration, and because the engine tends to twist (especially if the other mounts are left standard), if there's no give surely the bolts are going to be under alot more strain and could shear?? Can't see how the cross member bushes deal with this alone. Expecting to be shot down for this view..... :)

Thanks. I ordered the disks and pagid fast road pads from GSF and they come with new thread-locked bolts to hold the calipers on.

Thanks for that Henny, sounds like I've got all the bits required so hopefully it will be that simple. Doesn't always work out like that when I attempt it mind you. :roll: Looking forward to a half decent handbrake.

Do a search on it mate, has been several threads recently with very different opinions.

Does anyone know what handbrake cable mods may need doing to fit the mk4 calipers to a '94 corrado? I've got the brake pipe conversion kit on order so wondering if I need anything else.

Whenever I told my insurance company about modifications, they charge the extra but state that in the event of an accident they will not cover non standard parts. Eg. If I manage to break an aftermarket wheel they will only replace it with a standard one, or give the eqivalent cost of a new standard one.

I recently noticed what I can only describe as a slight judder through the steering when cornering. I can only feel it on very smooth road surfaces, but it seems to occur with every rotation of the wheels. It doesn't happen when going straight. Could it be a CV, bearing or driveshaft problem? Will have the wheels off to change the brakes at the weekend so ideally want to sort any potential problems at the same time.

Think I'll have to go the tiewrap way then. Agree I shouldn't have to, just haven't had the thing right from day one. Must have one of the rare dodgy ones (not starting :wink: ), have tried several times to line it up with no success so the exhaust mounts were all I could think of next. Thinking about it a plate was welded to the rear mounting bracket then slotted to give it more adjustment, so a uprated one would probably have no chance of helping. Had to order all new disks and pads today, so the original idea of throwing it away and buying a supersprint will have to wait.

Are they generic for all fords or do I need to specify a model? They sound good for the centre mounts but I'm still after a replacement for the rear mount and bracket. The stereo wasn't working recently and the knocking of the milltek really started to get annoying. Seems to be hitting the bumper and axle, so want to stiffen the whole lot up.

Does anyone know where to get hold of a complete set of polyurethane or equivalent exhaust mounts for a VR6 with the bar type hangers? Powerflex just seem to do the centre ones, I'm also after the rear one with the mounting bracket etc. Thanks.

The front feel stiffer than standard but not as much as the back seems to have been uprated. Cornering hard there isn't alot of roll but the roll bar is obviously helping out alot (standard). Going over bumps in the road straight I can regularly make it compress enough to scrape the front splitter. Overall I'm happy with the handling, can provoke oversteer pretty easily which I like and touch wood so far hasn't been unpredictable. Just would like the front abit harder to stop it grounding out so much.

I've got gmax on my VR and think it's pretty good. Haven't compared it to koni setups etc but the ride height seems right and there's no rubbing on the standard 15's. Splitter and sump get regular adjustments though. Handling's alot sharper now compared to worn standard. Only thing I have noticed is front seems noticably softer than the rear when going over speed bumps, which can result in bottoming out. Jamex kits on golfs I've had seemed more even. Obviously this isn't a major concern because it can be avoided by crawling over them, but do wonder whether the handling would be better if it was more even. Maybe the VR extra front weight wasn't taken into account..

Not sure but don't you have to support the engine because the starter motor bolts also hold the front engine mount? Other than that not a difficult job.