Rpmayne

When I first got the car it was rolling roaded at 194bhp. Then started to progressively rough running and drinking a litre of oil per 1000miles. Obvoiusly feels better than it ever has now but not sure there's any extra power. Has only done 13k since the rebuild anyway so has probably got alot of loosening up to do before I get it rolling roaded again. I thought those JR forged pistons were only really good for heavily modded track cars, and suffer from piston slap when cold.

Stealth racing sell 82.5mm and 83.00mm (max. advised rebore) mahle piston sets inc rings etc for about £700.00. They said there isn't any real power benefits between the two sizes though so I just went for the 82.5mm incase it needs another rebore in the future. What sort of power increase would you recon to get making it a 3.0L? Have heard of 3.1's but ovalisation can be a problem then cos of the heat and there isn't much metal in the bore walls.

Thanks for that, just sent off for a quote now.

Open the passenger door and you should see a phillips screw above the latch mechanism. Undo that (think the drivers side is a reverse thread, passenger side is normal) and you should be able to move the handle out. Think there is a electrical connector which needs disconnecting to completely remove the handle, might need the door card off to do that.

I've got a set of mats in my '94 VR6 with blue piping and the VW Motorsport badge. They came with the car. Were these original fitment and any idea where I can get a new set? Being a tart but like the badge.

Not Corrado related but my mates got a mk5 XR3i with an intermittent starting problem. Sometimes the starter motor will spin without the gear engaging. Took the starter motor off, turned the key and the gear jumped out as it should. Put it back on, ok for a few days then the same problem occured. This is the second new starter motor so can't see it being the motor. The flywheel doesn't look chewed up. The supply is simply direct live and neutral, and the start line from the ignition switch. Maybe related, the battery keeps dying with a couple of days on non use, and the battery is new.

The whole ordeal did push me abit far, had to walk away from the car with my extended torque wrench a few times.. Often felt like homer in that episode were he was trying to make that flat pack bbq. :x Thanks, will try bleeding that bolt and see what happens.

During the rebuild the tensioner, alternator and water pump were all replaced with genuine VW parts, hence a slight robbed feeling at the end. :roll: Haven't got A/C but will check the PAS pump. I'll try and get a video of it. Dunno about the oil, mates got a XR3 though and says that has to have a certain grade otherwise it runs as rough as fcuk. Maybe restrictive oil ways or something? Ran a 80k+ 16v golf on mobil 1 once, never again. Seemed to get alot noisier and the oil didn't stay in there too long.

Done about 15k after rebuild now, and has had at least 4 oil and filter changes. Didn't bleed the hydraulic chain tensioning bolt, how do I go about that? Think I know what the piston slap sounds like, noisy as fcuk. It doesn't do that too much and only ever for a second max when starting. Thanks for the comments.

Changed the oil pump for a genuine VW, and using synta silver 10w40. I dunno but it just doesn't sound as smooth as I thought it should. I know the chains (and original spec tensioner) make abit of noise but there's also general running chatter which seems to come from the LHS of the head. Abit worried the engine had been starved of oil in its previous life and there's more damage than I thought to check.

The lifters were from GSF. Probably just getting paranoid, but don't like a near completely rebuilt engine making that noise. Would have replaced the cams then but had no money left.

Does anyone get a rattle from what sounds like the cams / lifters when starting up before the oil pressure rises? I know its been said that if it dissappears within a few seconds its probably ok, which it does, but none of my other cars have ever done that (with higher mileages). The engines had new lifters but I didn't check the cams, although they did have signs of wear. Thing is, if the cams are under minimum wear, am I going to wreck the lifters? If so, anyone got any 268's going cheap? :) Mentioned many a time but is it worth getting those cams with no other mods, other than milltek, k&n panel, 3 angle valve seats and a 82.5 rebore?

Does anyone get a rattle from what sounds like the lifters when starting up before the oil pressure rises? I know its been said that if it dissappears within a few seconds its probably ok, but none of my other cars have ever done that (with higher mileages). The engines had new lifters but I didn't check the cams, although they did have signs of wear. Thing is, if the cams are under minimum wear, am I going to wreck the lifters? If so, anyone got any 268's going cheap? Mentioned many a time but is it worth getting those cams with no other mods, other than milltek, k&n panel, 3 angle valve seats and a 82.5 rebore?

If its anything like changing the headlights on my old 16v mk2, the fixing or adjustment studs have these plastic bits which lock in somehow. Abit hazy now but remember them breaking easily. Stealers sell them separate though.

The ECU relay is quite a common cause apparently. On mine it was a bodged solder joint where the immobiliser interrupts the main feed to the ECU. Intermittently opening circuit and doing pretty much what you describe. The same Snap-On diagnostics didn't pick it up because turning the power off to the ECU isn't a logged fault. VW found that for me. Maybe bypassing the immobiliser would tell you one way or the other. Nightmare of wires behind the fuse box though, not sure how easy that would be. Or running +12v straight to the ECU supply wire if anyone knows which one that is.

Did VW ever make another VR6 model car and 6-speed gearbox that would bolt straight on?

Maybe the lambda sensor? I've had problems when it will run fine, then switch as you say and won't idle and feel rough. Does your exhaust look sooty and black? Vag-com reported an inplausable lambda reading and resorts to over-fuelling. MPG changes dramatically, normal driving 25ish when running well, 10ish when running bad due to the lambda. New sensor is about £75.00 from VW.

I thought the same until I bought a Corrado. Have basically given up having a fully functional car. Don't use the sunroof for fear of it going wrong (which it will), manually use the spoiler now, heater controls only give full air or nothing, coolant leaks, intermittently working lambda so mpg goes from 10mpg to 25mpg.... All off the top of my head, probably plenty more :( Anyway, back to topic. Does anyone know where this blue wire signal comes from? I thought the control relay takes in an analogue speed signal, and the circuit then activates the spoiler at a certain speed given by some internal resistor values. Is the blue wire the analogue signal which goes to the control relay, and then behind the stereo for that speed / volume conpensating feature some have?

I've had the same problems since I removed my fuse box aswell. Haven't found the cause yet. The spoiler control relay is directly above the fuse box behind the dash, maybe pulled the connector out somehow? Blue wire behind the stereo is often mentioned as a cause aswell, although hopefully someone can give more info as I haven't traced that yet either.

There's also a bleed nipple on the master cylinder aswell which should be done last apparently.

The axle's coming off at the garage on monday to have the bushes done (couldn't get the brake compensator bolts out and didn't want to round anything off) so would be a good time for the roll bar but money doesn't allow. Wouldn't help the sump though. How can I judge the springs compression rate, can't see it being anything else now? It was a new complete Gmax kit, couldn't afford much else at the time. Wonder if they supplied the mk2 8v golf kit or something silly which would probably be far too soft for this tubby mother of an engine. If so would different springs suffice or is it a complete kit again? Getting abit tired of having the car in bits now mind you, and an angry bank manager. :(

Just been and measured the clearances: Front spoiler to road: 90mm Rear spoiler to road: 260mm Front wheel arch to centre of wheel: 320mm Rear wheel arch to centre of wheel: 330mm Doesn't look that low to me, maybe the springs are too soft as you say. The back end has always been drifting easier than I think it should, thought that was partly down to the bushes. Maybe its the front being soft and lifting the opposite corner.

I think the arching was taking some of the power away from the plugs so not getting complete ignition. Try running it at night and look for any sparks in that area. There was someone else on here who got some leads for around £40.00 which were upto VW quality (German Car Parts??). VW charge £120ish. A search should find the supplier, was pretty recent.

Does anyone have problems with the VR sump grounding out after lowering the car (gmax 30-40mm drop on standard speedlines)? Can't get my head round why as the sump looks almost in line with the centre of the wheels, and they'd have to move up a long way to drop the car low enough to do that. Had the sump welded once before where the drain plug bulge is. Its now worn through the patch and flattened the exposed part of the bolt, along with scratches all across the bottom of the sump. A little concerned its going to dump the oil and feck the engine soon. Any alternative sumps / solutions? (other than raising the car). Ta

Had problems with my old 16v leads arching on the inlet manifold branches which caused the flatness and dodgy idling you describe. Just a thought, insulation tape round the top of the leads was a quick solution until I wrote it off. :roll: