Rpmayne

I've had Clifford alarms in the past a have never had a problem. The 4 beeps could be a code telling you a sensor has been triggered / is faulty. You should be able to look that up in the instruction manual. The two bulb thing... do you mean they blew two of them up, but after you've accepted by signing they wave any responsibility? If they're blowing things up when installing the alarm I wouldn't necessarily blame Clifford for the problems.

10w40 Magnatec, although it gets through a bit. Has anyone else read that its better to use 15w40 in the summer and 10w40 in the winter due to the average higher ambient temperature? Supposedly reduces the amount it drinks, can start getting abit expensive. Had a result at a petrol station on the way to Dartmouth. Just so happened the tills had broken when I went to pay for a £22 bottle of Magnatec. The cashier assured me it was £14.00, couldn't hold in the suprise but got it for that anyway! Should have got more!! :D

Cheers for the ideas. Have just ordered the VR6 engine manual for about £7.00. Will probably try the above tricks with the head on, and if everything goes tits up I'll just remove the head. Will let you know how it goes for a laugh. As for parts, and if the head does come off, GSF don't seem too unreasonable: - Head gasket set £57.50 (inc. valve stem seals, inlet & exhaust manifold gaskets) - Head bolt set £15.00 - Hydraulic lifters set £111.00 Is there anything else which is worth replacing at the same time? How about the timing chain tensioner? Also, where do you get the tool to hold the cam timing? Does this clamp the cams together so you take them out together and inline? Ta

I have been getting the odd puff of grey and sometimes blue smoke when changing gear and booting it, doesn't do it all the time but is using about 1.5litres of oil per 1000 miles. :shock: The MPG maybe unrelated, but the compression is good so I am thinking the valve stem seals are worn. :( Does anyone know whether these can be changed with the head on. Have done head work on 8v volkswagen engines with the head off, but removing them looks simple compared to this lump. Any help with the following would be much appreciated: - How easy is it to take the cams out? No nothing about the timing chain removal / refitting. - Can the spring collets be removed without taking the head off? - If so, how can the valves be prevented from falling into the cylinders? - Whats the limit for valve guide play? If this is over limit then obviously I going to be in trouble. Apparently a professional fitting job / megabucks. - Can you buy a purpose made tool for removing the valve stem seals? Have only recently bought the car, spent most of the money I had on a respray and tyres, and general tidying up. Need a cheap solution. Cheers.

Has anyone got any pictures of the fitment of these oil coolers, and is it an easy mod? Don't like the idea of using self tapping screws through good metal etc. As the oil temperature stays lower, would this reduce the amount being burnt because it gets too thin? A mate drove behind me on a long trip and noticed grey smoke when changing gear and the occasional blue puff when hard accelerating. Its been compression tested etc and all clear, quite wishfully thinking that the problem is thin oil getting round the valve stem seals.

Does anyone know where I can find some information about this manifold and the advantages / disadvantages of fitting it? Also, how much do you recon? Cheers

It's french, whats wrong with you people? 7mm allen key anyone? Would have a mk2 16v golf over that any day!

I did the same thing and found putting the wheel on lock and removing the screws / bolts up to the top of the wheel arch gives enough room to squeeze your arm up and re-feed it.

I thought I read somewhere that some 16v golf owners changed the 50mm diameter manifold for the 42mm to increase low down torque. Just wondering whether they did that because the corrado is heavier and needs it to pull away better.

You say the low pick improves with the chip, do all standard VR6's up to 4000rpm feel flat? My Corrado has been dyno'd at 194bhp, and above 4000rpm it feels well strong, but below it sometimes feels like a mkII 8v golf gti would pick up faster. The smoothless might be giving me the wrong impression, but if the chip improves this it must be worth doing.

Cheers for the guide Rams, hopefully going to take the job on this weekend weather permitting. One bit I'm not sure of though, how does the pilar cover (the one with the seatbelt top hinge assembly etc) come off? Have tried before and it seemed to hold at the top. Thanks

I'm about to change my broken mechanism for a second hand corrado one, and while the roof lining is out I want to clean it. Any ideas what to use? Bloody cream colour shows all the years of dirt, but I'm a little worried about damaging it. Also, does anyone know where to find a guide on removing / refitting the sunroof? Cheers

I have owned a mkII golf 8v and 16v before the VR6 corrado and must admit they are fast, but I can't imagine they are un-passable at 90. It must have been a downhill / straight road, overwise the VR's torque would win every time. Used to compare mine and my mates cars up a hill near me, just see what speed you could get at the top: mkI 8v golf - 95mph mkII 8v golf - 95mph mkII 16v golf - 100mph corrado VR6 - 120mph (still pulling hard, ran out of revs) :twisted:

All I know is I spoke to my local garage (have taken various problems there over several years), and asked about the oil it consumes and a water leak. They ended up minor external problems, and said that the head needed to come off he wouldn't touch it. Didn't exactly fill me with confidence for when the day comes! Don't know anymore detail than that, the timing chain issues worry me though. What was wrong with the old 16v golf cam belt and chain arrangement? My VR6 infrequently stalls for no reason, I was regularly bump starting it until I read the chain tensioners suffer badly!

Ahhh bolox :oops:. Will have to get the info. from source next time.

Umm, I thought the Santa Pod meeting was on the 15th of June!? :shock:

Anyone know how much a complete set of 205 50 VR15 toyos cost? Would you rate them above yokohama A539's? I've always had yokohama tyres on my cars and have been very pleased (used to cost £35 per tyre 195 50 R15 so the heavy wear didn't matter too much). Have recently got a quote for 253.00 delivered on the yoko's.

Try elephant.co.uk. Have tried ringing through all the dodgy companies at the back of max power and elephant was the cheapest by a long way. Have been with them for a couple of years on Golf GTi's which might make a difference. 23 years old, 2 years NCB, standard VR6 with 21 year old girlfriend on the policy, Fully comp. £840.00. Only £100 more than my modified 8v Golf TPFT!

thanks dazzyvr6, but do you have a phone number for them or another website address? It says click on the buttons to the left of the page but they don't appear, only a white column where I assume they should be. Thanks

I'm having my VR6 completely resprayed for similar reasons. While your getting it done I check around the windows if they have been changed. Autoglass the slash and dash specialist have proudly put their sticker on mine, and you can see the scratches and rust from that professional change. As a guide, stripped alot of the car bits myself to save money (bumpers, lights, mirrors, etc) and got a quote for £800.

I am trying to source a new fog lamp for a '93 VR6, as mine has a stone chip. Phoned up good old Volkswagen, £93!! Does anyone know a good place to pick one up for substantially less? I used to use GSF for Golf bits but they don't seem to cater for Corrado's too well. Ta!

My VR6 idles happily at 700 after just having it tuned and put on a rolling road at a bosch garage. 900 is high for a V6 isn't it?

Anyone had any experience with these surge capacitors you connect across the supply to the amps to apparently improve the bass response? I'm running 200WRMS through a sub, sounds good but always looking for improvements.

Does anyone else find the VR6 abit of a nightmare on wet round abouts? Its bog standard and seems very back happy when even tickling the accelerator on exit. Mostly seems balanced enough to get it back without too much drama, but I'm sure my old mkII golf gti with gmax all round was quicker at cornering in the wet. That used to 4 wheel drift rather than the rear end snap. Is this down to 'VR6 weight problems' that have been written about before on the forum? Have been putting 36psi front and 34psi rear, will dropping the rears to 30 help? Also got a mix of p6000 on the front and kormorans on the rear, A539's all round will hopefully make a difference. Probably driving like a hooligan doesn't help either. :twisted: