RW1

"C" is Storm and late Corrado. raises at 56mph "A" is earlier Corrado and raises at 45mph. .

Was only thinking this afternoon how many fuses you would go through lol You might just check out the microswitches in the spoiler unit for sticking. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfCorrado Spoiler Micro Switches.jpg[/attachment:3gf1rin0] Also see if one of relays is welded on the contacts, do they both move freely? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfCorrado Spoiler Controller 535 919 845C - 01a.jpg[/attachment:3gf1rin0] Check the spoiler controller PCB for copper track cracking which may prevent a relay operating. Corrado Spoiler Controller 535 919 845C - 02a.jpg[/attachment:3gf1rin0] If the relays/microswitches get out of sequence, it may be that the 12 volts is being switched directly to earth, hence the instant blowing of the fuse. .

Clean the ISV. Had this in the summer. Sorted the ISV and its gone. .

They are both 15 amp. .

Dash insert is the instruments less the LCD odometer. ie. rev counter, speedo, warning LEDs = PCB inside behind the actual dials. The ABS warning lamp is included in that. The fuse list above is from the circuit diagrams. .

Fuse 21 is interior lights, cigarette lighter, digital clock, rear spoiler. Fuse 16 is Dash Instrument insert, glovebox light, rear spoiler. .

It can be done. My friend has two double decker buses and there's about 12 buses all told amongst the members. Big shed! Shared tools, power etc.. .

????????? The last Corrados were built in 2nd week of June 1995. .

I'm OK with that Mr K. Likewise if I'm in the right locality. .

C0J is the Sebring wheels 6J x 15 H2 4/100, during 1990 production at Karmann. .

You are a star! Interested! :notworthy: (Would pick them up at a VW show save the hassle of a box etc.) .

The codes are not specific to an exact option say like a Speedline wheel. They are associated with factory build so different factories & differnt times, the code represents a wheel on the production line at that time. That is why that decoder is not 100%. .

Definitely not Nitro Mors .........gzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz! Best way is B&Q White Spirits (not turps). Sheet over the engine bay & wings to collect the foam & white spirit drips. Shave all the foam off first. Then brush on white spirit onto the rough foam/adhesive surface that has been left behind. Start at the front end of the panel so the white spirit runs down into the adhesive. Best done, one panel in work, next being prepared. Go for a cup of tea and wait 20 to 30 minutes for the white spirit to work into the adhesive. You will know its ready to scrap as it starts drooping off the underside of the bonnet. Use a credit card to gently scrape off the drooping adhesive and foam remains. Work on stubborn bits with a rag soaked in white spirit & the card. Wipe clean. By now the second panel is ready to go but just before scraping, pretreat the next panel with white spirit to allow it to do its work. Now start scraping with the card on the 2nd panel. Continue until all are done. Using this method is effortless as the adhesive just drops off. The card just helps give if that last little push. Take you about 3 hours, mainly cos of the white spirit soaking time is upto 30 minutes a panel. .

Yeah, need just a little more though. On the boot sticker only there is string of numbers & letters above the chassis number line. What are these? Plus what is the chassis number year letter. ie. the bit highlighted in read below. wvwzzz50zPK034017 .

Not for the Corrado. More modern VAG cars, its all in ERWIN and more not on the label. Can you pop up your codes line by line. (No chassis number required ;) ) .

Half guessed you might have but it also has a solution on page 4 where Critical_Mass was in the same situation ..... None of the ones I've done have been a problem. Quick turn and lift. May it has turned enough already and just needs lifting??? .

That site is not 100%. Some decodes will raise an eyebrow or two. .

Here's a link to VCDS Output Tests .

A really dirty ISV you do have to clean but the check in VCDS Output Tests does two things. 1) The ISV is working. 2) Confirms the ISV is sticking if the exercising stops poor running. If it fixes temporarily, then you know the ISV is in need of thorough clean soon. 3) The test positively exercises the ISV shutter valve over its full travel, which the ECU while running the engine will not necessarily do. It's making sure the valve shutter will travell through its full sweep. It doesn't step through the PWM. Its the same as applying full voltage to it like Fla was doing by hand with a battery in the above post. Output Test does the same with the injectors, carbon canister valve and other valves if fitted. .

There is nothing special about how it locks in. Its just a horizontal sliding keyway. Don't try to press down, just a horizontal turn. The pump, if original, is like the photo showing the keyways on p1. http://direct.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/vie ... +fuel+pump .

Under the rear ignition lead carrier engine cover to the inboard side of the throttle body. Cover needs to be removed to access. Effectively yes. But with VCDS, you don't need to disassemble anything other than the gear shift cover panel in the centre console to plug into the diagnostics socket. .

Yeah, you may have had what was happening with mine upto mid summer last year. Running rough at lower RPM and idle not sweet. Didn't clean the ISV. Instead "execised" it using VCDS output tests so it clunked rather loudly, ie. full aperture sweep open/close. Since doing that, the VR6 has run smoothly and like it should do. .

Thats the VW factory fitted alarm. Not fitted to UK models ;) .

Do you mean 21 or 22. Radio is on 22 normally??????? 10A. 21 is 15A. If you mean its 22, yes just straight to the radio, no wire breaks or tee blocks. 21 is interior lights, cigarette lighter, digital clock, rear spoiler. .

You missed the point John! It was an elaborate vacancy ad for a house manager! :lol: .