RW1

One thing might be possible. Clean up the under tank outer surface, wet it and use one of those rubber sucker body panel pullers, if the depression is towards the centre and is a general pushed depression. The tank skin is no thicker than body panelling. .

You have it in the wrong position of the three dials! See below.... The rest of the illumination is done by plastic "light tubes". There should be a "light tube" finger in the fan speed one behind my control knob like the one exposed on the left side of the photo. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfHeater Controls - 01a.jpg[/attachment:1leywqvt] The bulb in your green holder is as this. See below.... Heater Controls - 02a.jpg[/attachment:1leywqvt] .

Its KR engine C. isn't it???? I'd leave it be as it's not leaking. Q? Is it causing bother? No, then don't touch. .

Belt Snapping Menu Starters: Weetabix, eat at least 3 biscuits. You'll need some muscles. Main: Pack a spare set of undies, you'll need them when that belt snaps on a sharpish bend at speed and the steering goes heavy. Dessert: Face wipes, to cool off after the event. ...................... Seriously though, whilst dr_mat has given you all the possibilities the snapping belt will disable, ....where is the actual noise coming from on the right side of the engine? Looking at the engine right side face on, .....over the right hand wing. Water Pump - Middle height towards the rear Tensioner bearing - Top near "that" M8 bolt in the photo. Alternator - front middle height. Steering Pump - Bottom low down front of engine All pulleys at these points turning in relative speed to the passing belt? .

Correct dr_mat, while doing the water pump. Hadn't thought someone would look at it that way :lol: I'll have to "improve" my instructions in future. I did say available from B&Q! .

The belt is on a self tensioning installation. Check the condition of the belt. The alternative is the steering pump has become harder to drive. So it may still be the pump. VR6 Water Pump Change 16AUG05 - 05a.jpg[/attachment:ti3v0027] To get the belt off, easier with the airbox removed. Then put a M8 x 80mm long bolt (available at B&Q warehouse stores) as shown to back off the tensioner. Screw it in until you can move the belt out off the pulleys. Just make a note of the belt routing before you take it off so as you can replace it correctly. Then you can have a look at how "free" the pump is. .

If I look back at this photo, the plating looks too thick compared to VW. It's not the same finsh as the Mk1 cabi. It gives the look of painted on. I presume that is just the dipping time or cos they had two coats?? Is this the same type of kit? Zinc Plating or Super Bright Zince plating or Electro-Brush on Zince Plating .

This is off the Silver Scirocco - July 1990 production, earlier to April 1995. Same part number, has never changed. 431 898 550. First hand here looking in the garage, they are plated identically. The pin head beyond the white plastic collar is plated. Easier to see in this photo. DSCN8166a.JPG[/attachment:1nbdc1e5] OCD strikes again, I must resist. Where did you get the plating kit from Dave? Or better still ;) @KIPVR, yes would like to know the original spec. @G-lad... enjoy :) .

I would still check that the dim-dip circuit in-line connector is isolated in the engine bay behind the left headlight. On side lights, it's applying some voltage at around 10 volts to the headlights when the sidelights only position is selected. The shunt resistor is in a metal clip hung under the slam panel behind the left headlight. Follow the yellow wires back towards the battery and you should find the in-line connector. LH Headlight Cavity a .jpg[/attachment:jozq7tx1] This is the front left wing area with the headlight removed. The shunt resistor is the item in the green circle which is hanging loose but th eposition is roughly there. The red circle is the position of the yellow in-line connector. In this case it is disconnected and bagged/stowed. If you are using the USA circuit diagrams, this circuit is not shown. .

The reason for the dim headlights when in the switch is on sidleights, is that your dim-dip circuit is still connected as per the factory. Absolutely nothing wrong with your Corrado. MoT man is a MoT failure :lol: :lol: Tell him to switch the ignition off with the sidelights selected. "Parking" lights are when in that condition ie. parked, and you will get sidelights only. If you want to disconnect the dim/dip, go to the front left side of the engine bay behind the left headlight. There you will find a yellow in-line connector with yellow wiring either side. Pull apart and bag/stow. Now you will have sidelights only on the 1st position of the switch with the ignition on. .

Well, started to feel a little OCD this morning when I saw the state of the bonnet catch and even now the camera flash is showing I've missed a bit! Which isn't that visible in daylight. They are the original parts fitted at the factory. First time off since new but they don't look perfect do they considering that plate face was protected up against the bonnet paintwork. First two are daylight only photographs. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSCN8150a.JPG[/attachment:1gog0k6e] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCN8154a.JPG[/attachment:1gog0k6e] DSCN8162a.JPG[/attachment:1gog0k6e] These are the engine hose connections to the thermostat and the auxiliary water pump (far right). passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCN8116a.jpg[/attachment:1gog0k6e] Clip colours did vary in production years so obviously this is a 1994/1995 engine. .

:confused4: Never even thought of it that way. Struggling in the dim light of garage with the camera today. Spring is just bare metal. The whole pin, tighten collar and washer are the same as brake pipes. Always have been since new. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCN8127a.JPG[/attachment:13qpnclw] Top radiator hose connection and bolts. Bolts worse for wear cos of the airflow over them. They were quite bright when new, more so than the gearbox bracket below. Bottom radiator hose clip is green like the engine ones below. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSCN8114.JPG[/attachment:13qpnclw] Blue clip in header tank, two more as said on the two coolant pipes to the throttle body heating connections, same size clips. These are the only blue ones. The fan controller bolts were again brighter than the gearbox bracket below when new. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCN8115a.jpg[/attachment:13qpnclw] On top of the rear engine mount where the lambda probe and knock sensor wiring is mounted. Looking worse for wear since I cleaned it and didn't WD40 it again - must do! The difference to the original finish as per the gearbox brackets which have never had their WD40 removed. Corrado92.pdfRear Offside VR6 Engine Mount - 01a.jpg[/attachment:13qpnclw] Two plates on top of the gearbox. The righthand one is representative of the original shade for all the parts. The camera has reproduced it faithfully in the photo. DSCN8138a.JPG[/attachment:13qpnclw] .

That's good news, something positively found. Don't think it will sort out...... If the belt was out as said, the previous owner/garage could have adjusted it to pick up the idle. There is a limiting screw on the throttle body. Inboard side of the throttle body below the throttle spindle line on the windscreen side. See if it has been tampered with. If so, back it out so there is a gap. Now wind it into the throttle lever until it just touches and piece of A4 paper can just slide in the gap. Now wind it inwards a further 1/2 turn of the adjuster screw. That is it set. Now you need VCDS. Engine warmed up past 80'C oil temp. Pull off the crank case breather hose off the roccker cover box. The one going to the intake/throttle. Block the hose off. Select 01 - Engine, select "Basic Settings" and select group 001. While idling, field 4, far right in the VCDS display, should acheive all zero's. If a 1 remains dispayed in the digit string, you still have a problem but given emmisions are OK? and timing OK, then hopefully zero's will be displayed. Exit "Basic Settings" if all is well and zero's are acheived. If you don't get zero's, Basic Settings does not happen. - Check for air leaks. - Check exhaust fot leaks from manifold upto the cat. - Check lambda (which you've done) If not zero's. this is what they mean. 01000000 - Auto selector not P or N 00100000 - Air Con not switch off 00001000 - Lambda regulation no OK 00000100 - Throttle valve not closed 00000010 - Engine Speed outside range (770 - 870 rpm) 00000001 - Coolant Temperature below 85'C .

It doesn't come easy cos its genuine VW parts, even if you do start with nearly new. I didn't really look after the Corrado that well until its 4th year when I decided to enter Stanford Hall concours. It took about 4th seasons to build the Corrado up and learn how the competitions work. And it needs dedication like Judith, Paul & Drew are doing. Neighbours think I'm mad with OCD the way the wheels are off being cleaned and put back on. The Silver Scirocco for instance was originally a project to return the car to showroom condition. The idea being that when the white Mk2 I had got past it, I would be able to continue driving another "brand new" Mk2. When I initially finished it back in November 2000, I'd entered in a competition at VW Action at Peterborough and it had scored more than the Corrado was acheiving. That year I spent £1,300 on replacement parts returning the car to "as factory new". Since then I've put around a further £800-ish into it. There are still some parts to change yet. Like the Corrado, I'm being caught up by obsolence. The Mk1 Golf/Scirocco suspension went that way last year. I just made it in time and put new original struts and springs on the front. The springs were the last of the Wolfsburg stock so bought 4 via VW Germany. The Corrado is the same, parts are still around at VW but ever increasingly, I get told obsolete at the parts counter. Don't know how much I've spent over the years on it. But more recently, given the obsolence issue, I'm buying month by month the parts needed to keep it runing in the higher mileage life, ahead of the time they are needed. Or as I did 5 years ago, completely strip and stored the electrics & controllers etc from a crashed Storm. .

Don't get me wrong though, what Drew does to the paint I think is great. And although blingy Mk1 cab. above, I like that too. You just have to make your choice, mine Concours so it obviously governs how I maintain the Corrado's condition. Now... heres the the same Mk2 engine bay as my silver Scirocco above. As you say, there's an aging factor as well. The photo was taken the day I took delivery of the red Scirocco, brand new. I use this and a couple of others as reference photos as I continue to fettle the Silver one (as it was bought secondhand). The Sciroccos were produced 3 months apart. Notice how the zinc plate varies, but is dulled in most cases. But it is richer in colour, Corrado92.pdf1990 Tornado Red Scirocco Scala Injection - 02a .jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0] Here's the Corrado Storm in October 1996 when I bought it. It hadn't been serviced and I don't think the bonnet had been lifted other than to look at by the previous owner. (Photos are scanned). Note the covering of factory engine bay "wax". And you can see the blue clip on the header tank. Two more on the throttle body connections. The rad top hose is light grey and one of those (rear) to the thermostat housing is light grey. The rest are green. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfCorrado Storm Oct1996 - 01a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfCorrado Storm Oct1996 - 02a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0] This is the Corrado at Stonor Park in June 2010, 14 years later. (Need to find what the factory "wax" VW part number soon that was spray across th engine bay. I think its AKR-321-M15-4 according to my VW Workshop manual on chemical materials. It states it a semi transparent wax for engines and gearboxes.) 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCN7481a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0] DSCN7482a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0] That should give you some ideas about what to do with the zinc plating. .

Was thinking of being made switchable if "experiments" checked out OK, so in temporary situations, the switch is flicked to OFF to get going. Do this on the Mk3 Scirocco and it works a treat. .

No. Fuses are same for TCS or no TCS. The two valves are controlled by two links if you wish to experiment. ABS Controller pin T55/37 to ABS hydraulic unit T5a/2, Green with yellow stripe wire. ABS Controller pin T55/40 to ABS hydraulic unit T5a/5, Green with white stripe wire. This will most likely bring on the ABS warning light in the dash - MoT failure and therefore invalidates insurance. Will throw faults in the ABS memory. Do not know what side effects it will cause in the ABS system. .

Ah, so it's adjustable. I know this is not a Corrado but a Sciroco Mk2. It gives you an idea of a well prepared engine bay. Note the shade of zinc on it. They are original. Also, the coolant pipe clips on the cylinder head to radiator in grey are the shade I refer to in the previous post. Door pins will fascinate me cos how are you getting the white plastic anti-rattle linings on???? Wouldn't be easier to buy two new door pins? .

Brochures are tarted up. They may start off as real photos but...... the airbrushing they did to them. bonnet catch /washers & bolts............... yellow? Zinc coated finish, note in the photo the zinc finish is not the same shade! Is that down to thickness/duration of the dipping???? ie. the VW origianl parts are thinner coated. bonnet release: domed bolt and spring...... clear zinc? Much like the brake pipe finish, the dull olive green but lighter. See photo below in green circle. bonnet release: adjuster nut and washer ....yellow? Zinc coated finish. See photo below in green circle. slam panel bolts.....noted......................black black battery clamp and bolt..........................yellow? same as brake compenstor lever arm. See photo below in red circle. Hose clamps......................................green? green, very light grey & blue depending on which connection is clamped. subframe and rear axle fittings................clear zinc? bolts/nuts - zinc coated. Clips for hand brake cable are clear - shiney stainless steel. Compensator spring - zinc or as mine black. Compensator Body is clear alloy. Corrado VR6 Brake Compensator - 04b.jpg[/attachment:2adcyl1m] Drew's build thread page here has got quite a few useful photos for the axle as has page 6 although one or two items are different to a VR6, ie. not originally zinc coated such as the brake compensator arm/lever arm. One thing I will say is that I have seen judges knock points off if you "bling" the components and get the wrong finish such as the bonnet dome bolts & springs in the photo. Enough differences like that and a judge will knock points off for not restoring correctly. Where the crunch comes is more in a Superclass where cars are spilt by fine details such as my Golf bracket at BVF this year. So watch the "correctness" with the plating. Concours is not a show & shine contest. .

:D :wink: What I showed you Judith was flatted down first on mine. Its the buffing afterwards they need not do other than very lightly ...... if the sprayer knows his skill. The bit besides the general finish to orange peel ripple, is to check out the over spray of the lacquer on panel edges and masking lips. Smaller than those you remarked about on door earlier when it was being stripped. So use the photos to know where to look, even use some as a check list to mark off as you go round. If necessary, run your finger lightly over all panel edges and make sure they are not raised/raggy. Look at small flat surfaces which were not "face on" to the spray gun such as the 1cm lip on the tailgate frame aperture where the spray gun may have been pointed at the rear panel behind the rear windows, and lacquer has dropped onto the 1cm lip unevenly. After all, a Corrado in the show room in the '90's or even today's VW's, if it has a shiney patch, I'm always suspicious of pre-delivery damage/repair. Amazing what you see in today's VW's showrooms if you look for it in detail. New Scirocco was total orange peel, not as much but none the less there. They spray and don't generally buff them at the factory. Corrado Bonnet front was/is shiney, progressively going to orange peel by 10cm up towards the windscreen from the front edge. Same for the wings, shiney around the headlight aperture for the first 5 to 10cm. To do with the lacquer spray "bridge" at Karmann and angle of spraying from above and curve on the front of the bonnet/front edge of the wings. @dave B. Gone here cos its going off topic .

I'm not taking Judith's pride & joy off topic so we're here.......... Above has the answer in the last post I put up Dave. I lost points at BVF this year because an original part fitted to the Scirocco that was off a Golf. :puppydogeyes: Ooops, a judge who knew his beans in detail down to a bracket :salute: .

In my opinion yes if........ as Drew has stated above, "its been blocked which they did not do at the factory" ..... to achieve a "mirror" finish. What a respray should be attempting to do for concours is replicating "factory" surface finish. Don't know what Judith has planned. I'm sure shortly it will be revealed. :wink: It can be done, just couldn't find Jack for you Judith. Seems he's has gone to ground. He's done mine and acheived it. :ignore: (Bet someone's ears have pricked up t'other side of the hills to the east now. :D Not you J.). I ask Jack to replicate the factory surface finish specifically. Concours isn't about the the shiniest car although a clean car does help! Concours is originality and its condition/build. The benchmark being the day it left the factory. ie. no mods but pukka accessories to the model allowed. That is why a Concours Judge needs to be knowledgeable about the type & models being judged. The question I always ask is did it leave the factory like that? The only alleviation is replacement spare parts. And again the judge has to be aware of the current replacement parts supplied by the manufacturer. .

Difference between Concours and Show&Shine/Custom competitions Drew. .

Defo not WD40 G 052 778 A2.jpg[/attachment:aez462jx] G052 778 A2 Lock Lube. Note the the cap labelling "with de-icing effect". Comes with a spray tube as seen and also a lock "slot" adaptor to spray into the key slot. Its a PTFE based product which lubricates and repels water. It's tacky to the surface it's applied to. Used it for years on MK2 Sciroccos. .

One thing that doesn't seem to be considered given most of the above is proving negative........... Have you checked round the fuel rail pressure regulator for the condition of the vacuum hoses? One on the regulator goes to a junction piece, splits two ways to the throttle body and the other to the airfilter box iirc. Perished/split etc.??? If this set of pipes are leaking, it runs richer. Pull the pipe off the airbox, block off & test drive, the temp sensor inside could be leaking more than it should. Deteriorated vacuum leading to richer running. Regulator itself giving over pressure??? Engine running at idle. Fuel rail pressure is normally 2.5bar. Pull the vacuum pipe off and it rises to 3.0bar if all is normal. Residual pressure must remain above 2 bar after stopping the engine for 10 minutes. On the battery side of the fuel rail, there is a fuel pressure tapping off point to connect to just for the job. .