RW1

I take it this is Corrado original electric seats??? The fuse? It sits on the top edge the fuse relay plate - 20A yellow. Here in the blue ring marked area. The one in the photo is for the Electric Windows & Central Locking, so there should be another one in one of the five vacant positions. DSCN1991a.jpg[/attachment:fz8pgnsy] Fuse check is just to make sure. I doubt it has blown as there are 4 electric motors involved and one not wotking suggests a motor, switch or a broken wire. 12 volts in on red wire to whole of the seat. Splits off at the height adjustment switch to the backrest motor on an orange wire to the switch. Switch to motor is an orange wire & grey wire (reversing flow circuit). Switch earth return is grey. Backrest switch to height switch is grey. This then joins the earth wire (brown) on nthe height switch. .

A little cautionary note.................. When I had my Koni's fitted by a certain Nottingham outfit whose Clearly & Rediculusly named, I prefer to forget. They handed the Corrado back to me and all appeared well with the geometry both driving locally and on the motorway until a few days later ....... The Corrado sat on the drive in the morning with the sun warming the left side of the car. At lunch time I drove off and did a trip which involved being on the motorway at 70 mph for the last 30 miles of 40. At the other end, a friend ask to see the front end suspension in detail. I turned out the steeering to the right. What I saw shocked me. A good tyre chewed to the carass fabric on the inside. I know it wasn't there the day before as I had cleaned the wheels off the car as part of the planned visit. When it was check by geometry back home on an alignment machine, all that was wrong was the tracking was toeing out 8 minutes instead of 1 minute. From what could be worked out, the morning sunshine that day had changed the grip balance between the two front tyres going up the motorway. The left front tyre had straightened up on its direction. Thus the right "cold" front tyre was dragged along pointing outwards, very rapidly wearing the inside tread block. Another 10 miles that day and a blow out was enevitable at 70mph. Lucky escape! I would recommend that tracking is checked on a proper tracking machine after doing the above, particularly if this method is used on a VR6 with so much power being applied through the running gear and tyres. Camber is not so critical around what happened. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I use a home made protractor for camber and since above, initially set the tracking but get it re-checked on an alignment machine. I use two instruments for camber. 1. To determine the level angle of the car across the width climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf1 Camber Setting - Roof Level 1st Reading - 01.jpg[/attachment:26pdkpop] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2 Camber Setting - Roof Level 1st Reading - 02.jpg[/attachment:26pdkpop] 2. To determine the uncorrected angle of the wheels. 7 Nearside Wheel 1st Adjust AFTER - 07.jpg[/attachment:26pdkpop] By combining the angles of the car's "level" setting and the angles of each wheel, the true cambers can be determined. (The "instruments" are pre-calibrated on known vertical & horizontal surfaces before use.) .

0515 = Yes cos it's down on power otherwise. Camshaft position sensor 021 907 601A. Once replaced, clear the fault to regain the ECU onto normal operation. 0533 = Exercise it as per link. Look up "Cleaning ISV" on here. VW ISV part price closing on £300. Or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Idle-control-valv ... 2eb0ead093 - Chinese copy. .

00515 - Sender located behind and slighty the coil pack, assumption its a late VR6 engine. Its pushed into the cam shaft in the side wall of the head. Has a 3 wire plug connection. Known to be poor. Results in the ECU going into Limp Home Mode and leaves the engine feeling like its loss a cylinder plus limits max rpm for safety. The fault can also suggest the chains have jumped a sprocket. Not bump started it recently??? 00533 - ISV vlave. Most likely sticking, explains the low idle and lumpy/missing a beat running. Needs a clean or just exercise it with Output Test in VCDS for about 3 mins and let it click away. See here. Either only affect fuel consumption by a small amount , less than 1 mpg. Lambda needs to be there, in the exhaust gases, to close the fueling feedback loop. .

Corrado = Moneypit...... lesson numo uno! Clutch, especially if modding the engine power. .

Here's the list of donors......... VR6's or odd VWs. 358 611 019D Master Brake Cylinder.jpg[/attachment:2vr08rdj] What is interesting is the 94 - 98 Golf Cabriolet changes its brake system during 1997 production. But the pedals and interior side of the firewall stay the same. Whether the master cylinder can be utilised.......6N0 614 019A. :shrug: Bore remains at 23.8mm. May need to block off the pressure sensor outlets with bolts. And the mounting dimensions checked as the servo is changed. Seems a lot of cars to stop a part for. .

They are still flogging them in Russia..... .

Fully Warm - It was when the Manifold Intake Air Temp reached 32'C - 33'C. It's peak. (The logging carries on for another 40 mins but that was edited out) The drop in temp in coolant is variation as the engine is driven, coast & idles. Oil peaks at about 15 mins when 5'c OAT, typical of the VR6. If it had been 20'C OAT, then it would typically be oil temp peaked at 12 mins. The key thing for me is that until the Maniflod intake temp in Grp 003, field 3 reaches about 30'C, the VR6 is slightly rough running. After that it starts to run very nicely. The run was primarily to log the Lambda & Injectors from a cold start & through a drive. .

Here's a typical warm-up file from VCDS logging.......... LOG-01-01F-022-03C-042 141110a Corrado Warm-up Drive and cruise.xls[/attachment:3hz9qky2] .

If you are meaning the temp in Grp 001, field 2 (2nd from left). It should giving readings all the way upto normal operating temp as the engine warms up. When cold it will reflect the ambient coolant temp, ie between 0'C & 10'C at the moment. -47'C is not right. .

The part number is 358 611 019D. RHDrive Passat part for ATE ABS brake system. It must be the 23.8mm bore version, not the 22.0mm bore. It's also fitted to the SEAT Toledo early 1990's. .

Easy enough to determine. With closed windows, just press the window switches for "up". The relays in the unit will be heard from behind one of the rear passenger panels. .

I wonder if the cam belt has jumped a sprocket tooth or may be two when the engine was floored???? Now the valve timing is out. Usually lack power when this happens. .

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=45674&hilit=+cooler will help. .

What is the voltage across from the alternator body to battery earth terminal? (Millivolt reading value) .

Dash Instruements are on fuse 21 (15A) If you've lost this, then the Interior lights, boot light and cigarette lighter will also not be working. For all the dash insert to go, I'd also look at the brown wire earth from the instruments on pin 3 and following it back to the body earth point. Make sure its secure. The supply 12 volts is on a red wire to pin 11. Or the instrument controller on the circuit board has failed. .

Corrado Fault Log date: 19.07.1997 Corrado fails to start, revs for one second and dies. By luck it starts eventually. Corrado Maintenance Log date: 25.12.1997 WD40 applied to immobiliser unit connection contacts on lead from ignition key switch reader coil during winter maintenance. Corrado date: 01.01.2011 Still no further problems following this little tweek. Starts first time, every time. Glad yours is fixed. ;) :D .

Excellent Dave. Nice to know sketching it out made it worth your while. :D .

Not in Stockport, they won't stock it. Tried to pursuade them. :brickwall: And... iirc, its not on VW-UKs list to order. .

They're 25Nm, plus a further 90 degrees turn. .

I'll see you there then at some point on Friday ;) Scirocco is poorly. .

Push on, but there was a clear adhesive tape strip applied to the seam split all the way round to keep liquid out of the seam. VW part AKL 448 300 04. Any decent half inch tape will do as long as it seals properly. Alternative use a latex type of glue such as carpet glue. Thats because in may be possible for water to go between the rubber seal and the body and capillary action get to the seam. Main entry is the top of the aperture. Also make sure the join up of the ends is on the bottom lip above the door sill. .

Tucked up at the end of November, back out again in June. Avoids the salty roads. .

Have a go with these........ http://direct.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/vie ... v#p1118287 .

Its not good sound for me but what I hear is a starter motor spining fast at some points. If so, it's the solenoid that is not heaving the motor spindle into the flywheel well enough. Before taking it ALL apart, disconnect the battery first. Then clean up the battery connection to the starter motor and then follow the battery earth lead from the battery down to where it connects below. Clean this connection up also. See if that improves the engagement. Only valid if your coolant is not to the proctective strength of 40% ish for these low temperatures. To test, pop a hand towel in hot water, pop it in a leak proof bag and rest that on top of the throttle body. Let it heat soak for 15 - 20mins. Then test the throttle to see if it frees up. I would refrain from pouring hot kettle water over it in this weather as the thermal shock may break the body or something else! If it does free up, hope the engine block is OK and increase the coolant anti-freeze strength as the next two nights are going to be bad ones for low temperatures. .