RW1

Looking good! You must be a penguin to be out in this weather. Its freezing just down the road with me and so far today I've lasted two times 1/2 hours before the pain sets in. .

I understand it to be the subframe itself has peeled open. .

It might be my old PC and how youtub works. It sounds like the starter motor is not engaged with the fly wheel. It is turning the engine? It will take a hell of a lot to freeze petrol..... how about -72'C give or take a few degrees depending on additives :D Throttle body has coolant in it. Whats your antifreeze level like. Up to strength of at least 40% additive???? Maybe the butterfly is jammed cos there is not enough antifreeze in the coolant and the water in the throttle body has iced and expanded. So jamming the throttle butterfly valve through distortion of the body??? .

John is trying to source another Subframe. .

I've had this in the past with perfectly good top mounts. If its slight and in the vertical direction, then they are normal. Some MoT testers don't like it and think it should be solid. My test it came up in was 1999 with it, different testers since. Not a comment and still have the same top mounts fitted. Unfortunately now, MoT's have history on-line. .

Have a look behind the cover by the inner wing on the header tank. And also the core plugs o the back side of the engine block facing the firewall bulkhead. Also, if you aren't doing so, do top up with coolant mix, not plain water. With temps as low as they are, plain water will reduce the antifreeze protection strength. If you aren't sure of the coolant strength, MotorWorld sell a little dipper kit that gives you a quick visual indication by number of floating mini balls. .

Toads method is porbably OK. The correct way to go about it is here.... Setting the brake compensator .

No chance! :lol: AGC is your gearbox code. All ties into a standard 1.8ltr 16v with manual gearbox Bog standard :D .

Ahhh, that explains the higher stored lambda values above 1.00 in Measuring Block 006 fields for idle and part-throttle. Also an idle less than perfect as well. .

Was begining to wonder with no comms. Glad its back. Quite clean of the paintshop dust in the front part of the engine bay considering the photos earlier. .

Have a look in the boot floor panel/rear boot wall on left side on the white sticker or in the service book front inside cover sticker if still with the C.. Code is about 5 lines down on the left side. It has Eng. Code and then the over stamping of your engine code. .

Yes the results are OK, but depending on time elapsed since the battery was connected and how much time you've been driving. Idle appears almost immediately. Part throttle after about 15 minutes of driving. Full throttle after about 30 to 40 minutes of driving. They all don't really settle down until after about 4 hours driving, despite the times above when values first appear. And once settled, there will still be minor adjustments going on for such things as quality of fuel, ie different brands, different fuel batches of fuel from a gas company. The "tweeking" by the ECU is normal. You can do the "Basic Settings" part of the procedure as many times as you like without any adverse effect. So one after a 30 mins drive after initial drive sequence, then another a week later will be fine. After that, once every 6 months but certainly at every service. The full VR6 ECU Reset is in the Wiki. Do it all as it asks. Just driving the initial few "speed sequence runs" is a waste of time as it states in the procedure. NB. Never reconnect the battery and allow the engine to idle continuously during the first 10 minutes. Plan to start the Corrado and drive away immediately so the ECU sees an engine under driven loadings. So the engine needs to be pre-warmed up before disconnecting the battery. ;) Its not in the VW's manuals or the Bentley in one spot. I wrote the ECU set up procedure to pull it all together and the VCDS Corrado VR6 label file as all the other Corrado VCDS label files that download from Ross-Tech in the program "exe" file. Also try exercising your ISV as it looks sluggish in the other topic by using "Output Tests" - See here. Let it click away for about 3 minutes and see how that goes. If you disconnect the battery again in the future, you start all over again with the ECU procedure. .

Knowing the heater controls is quite a few things that can be fixed such as clipping but when the cogs go, its bugger and find a scrap unit to rob. That said............... Alternative why can't the plastic cogs be replicated as the windows rollers have been. Then get a group buy together like Alex_G60_Fanatic , maybe the same supplier and make up a cog/other plastic plastic parts kit. :shrug: Must be far cheaper than buying a Passat new one and doctoring it. Regular lubrication with silicon oil on all the moving parts including the lower under dash parts helps to keep the system free. I do it as part of the serivce maintenance schedule. .

Well this popped out of the woodwork as the S. Mk4 from the Netherlands in August 2010 but i don't really beleive it. New Scirocco - Dutch Aug 2010.jpg[/attachment:owbdqcym] .

Pretty cronic :shock: I put mine in plastic bags with ty-wrap round loom near the base. Sit them upright so it acts like a umbrella. The Mk2 Scirocco daily runner I had, still has them working normally after 15 years. I looked inside just before selling it. The relays were as new. Think also, must be mindful that water runs off the inner wings on both sides on the Corrado when washing or its raining. (near the battery on one side). That won't be helping. See mod here..... Link .

No, not the only Scirocco, all that 1.4 TSi 160ps Twin Charger engined models are affected. Knock sensor coding was out in the ECU software leading misfiring ... to direct injection cylinder wall washing .... leading to piston ring failures within weeks of delivery. Generally No.3 but sometimes other cylinders. :roll: Been rectified by software released in September 2010 but damage can't be put right if already incurred. VW are rapidly running out of new 1.4TSI 160ps engines at the moment cos it covers such a wide range of models. And they are changing out bad engines without much questioning/arguement under warranty rather than rebuild in the dealers. Hopefully the new software has finally solved it. Certainly drives better since I had the update. VCDS checks on mine show no misfires either before or after of the nature that leads to the problem. .

Its ECU has lost the throttle setting. Carry this out in full icluding the "Basic Settings" bit. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_res ... edure.html See if that stops it stalling. (Assumption is you haven't adjusted aby settings around the throttlebody) .

I might add I have a good one and have none of the listed problems above others are having, as like the Corrado, the cars are variable in build. Except maybe the heater :scratch: Climb back into the Corrado and it does feel dated. Funny though, the Mk2 Scirocco doesn't :confused4: But can't beat the VR6 growl. .

Its a plastic-mobile ! :lol: That was my biggest shock but's only a daily driver, up for sale June 2012 - Dec'2012. 22,000 miles, lovely runner. And it still weighs in at 1350 - 1400Kg !! And squeeks, rattles & moans like nobodies business. Blows No3 piston. Has no heater and what else.... oh, and has a mind of its own when it comes to the electrics and opening windows when it's raining when you ain't near it. Not in this weather you won't!! Not when its frozen up and the windows don't drop and the only way in is take the parcel shelf out and climb through. :roll: .

Corrado will only exist as it is........ dead marketing name, it didn't work. It will just not happen . "new Scirocco is 2012 according to VW, Mk7 now delayed as Mk6 is too popular" VW Communications. VW did state a while back about the Scirocco Mk3 that it was a 5 year, 160,000 unit project as a gap filler at the VW Palmela plant at Setúbal, Portugal. It was based on the premise that they didn't know after a 13 year gap how the model would sell. It has exceeded their expectations by a long shot and almost the line capacity at 51,000 units this last full production year ending April 2010, 20,000 more than planned. And waiting times excluding the special ie. "R" are still running typically 16 weeks plus. Its been at this level since early 2009. It should be 10 to 12 weeks by VW standards. VW are paying compensation to customers. If you want an factory order "R" version, then kiss upto 12 months goodbye and expect a hire car for upto 6 months plus provided by VW. Somehow, I do not think there will be any UK Scirocco Mk3 special models or run-out models. Dealers are bringing in Irish specification imports to fill the gaps in stock levels which have differing lower equipment specifications. Prices secondhand are keeping up very well. With that sales volume new and secondhand, and no time to stop a production line for re-tooling, I just wonder if the new Karmann lines at Osnabrück will be used. So as to switch over to Mk4 "overnight" as they will have no spare new stock to carry over the dealers worldwide if VW did an existing factory line changeover. The old Karmann lines are being refurbished by VW and the Golf Mk6 Cabriolet will be starting Spring 2011. The factory capacity can also take another model, ie maybe the Mk4 Scirocco. That makes the Mk4 Scirocco ahead of the Golf Mk7 by two years on the new MQB matrix design if it is a direct launch date exchange. ie. New Scirocco Mk4 - August 2012 and the Golf 7 in 2014 but there are other models migrating to the MQB matrix design, so they may re-order the releases 2012 - 2014 with the Tiguan, Touran and Golf 7 Cabriolet. .

Yup, Merc Brilliant Silver, that's what I have used for years. The standard VW L009 100- Chrome for all VW silver painted wheels, always turned out darker when I initially used that. (you must be reading one of my old posts). MBS is not perfect but the closest I've got after several silver paint touch-ups tests. Seems to settle best to give a good match, ie., wheel flat on the ground off the car so the metallic flecks drop to the bottom of the lacquer mix when applied. I use a one touch paint (paint & lacquer mixed together) rather than paint colour and lacquer separate. ------------- @ Andy, You'll have a job keeping Hammerite (Finnegans) Waxoyl clean! Its worse for getting dirty than VW's harder wax version. At least with VW's when set, you can wipe with WD40 to clean it, Waxoyl just smudges away. .

It was introduced in the late 1980's (UK only c.1988?? ) to stop people driving around on sidelights only in urban areas. And not to dazzle other driver's in urban driving but make cars more visible at night. As above, the resistor is in series and drops the voltage across the dip beam lamp filament to about 10 volts so that it is working at a dimmer light output. The voltage is still high enough though to activate headlight loom/relay mods, hence your problem. The idea was dropped around about 1996 as it became silly with people driving on dim-dip on unlit roads. :cuckoo: .

The underbody treatment compound is PVC based. The tin is marked as.... Long Term Underbody Protection D35.P Part No. D 003 500 P 1.3Kg tin. Colour: Light Grey. Its not a lifed item. My tins are about early 1980's. As long as they remain sealed after use, it is lasting. I guess the cost is about £25 Goodness knows how its sprayed on at the factory. Its really thick stuff. The catalogue I have lists it as on Dave's repair manual as D 003 500 1 ltr. The difference is the "P" version is in a paint tin, the none "P" is in more like an engine additive tin can. --------- I think the VW clear wax (waxoyl) is AKR 321 M16, Preservative Wax (transparent) Comes in 300ml Aerosol as AKR 321 M15 4, 1 ltr tin AKR 321 M16 10, 10ltr tin AKR 321 M16 20. Not cheap as 1 ltr will be around £15 - £17. .

@ Andy Clear light yellow Waxoyl on all underside faces and into internal hollow sections but appears to be little in the passenger cabin other than access to inner sills & door bottoms. Never seen photos of this part of the assembly process at VW. It appears it was done after paint but before fixtures & furnishing were installed. The VW stuff isn't the same "waxoyl" as waxoyl at Halfords though. VW's coating seems to be more solid, harder wax, even when it was new compared to the Finnigens Waxoyl. Engine Bay lower parts appear to have been covered with waxoyl but the upper parts ie. inner wings, engine and gearbox received a harder solid coating which I think is AKR-321-M15-4. The material in the engine bay appears to fit the description VW provide. Will be buying some shortly to see if it the correct material. Cures at 80'C apparently. Shouldn't be much of a problem with a VR6 :lol: The devil in waxoyl on the underbody is keeping it clean. Which is why I took mine off for concours. The underbody/wheel arches is pre-treated with a rubbery type compound which forms a deadening skin. It extends up the side sills, that ripple that can be seen. Its part number is D 003 500 P. Comes in 1.3Kg tins. Repairs with it are quite easy. Brush on. Let it set and then over spray with the car's colour paint but not the lacquer for the underbody. Result is identical to factory. I think the wheel arches gain lacquer coat but haven't repair in any to look into it in detail. -------------- @ Dave, Maybe worth waiting until KipVR returns with the original spec. That may give you an idea of how to balance the chemicals. Rather than wasting loads with now result. Can you clean off the zinc plating done so far? .

RHD. Left: direction, middle: heat, right: fan speed. A Sony upgrade offered by the dealers from the accessory catalogue at the time with 10CD changer and stick control on the steering column cowl. The C. never had its original CD/Radio as per the Storm brochure (have one though!). Model number is in the top right of the photo - XR-C620RDS. Its 15 years old! Ebay if you are lucky. This upgrades will have been rarer when bought new. .