RW1

OK, I think I understand what you have found so here is the confirmation. Check Hall Sender pin 1 (Wire colour – Brown with white stripe) is going to ECU pin 33 (Wire colour - brown with blue stripe). The ECU – pin 33 (Wire colour - brown with blue stripe ), CPS – pin 3 (Wire colour - brown with blue stripe) and the Intake Air temp - pin2 (Wire colour - brown with blue stripe) earths all meet in the loom. If all three of these wires are the colour stated, then they should all connect together and each should connect to the car’s chassis earth. Do this with ECU, CPS and Intake Air Temp plugs separated from the components. Cos you have 12 volts across the Hall Effect Sender and CPS connector pin 1 & 3, therefore it looks like the ECU has lost earth on pin 33. So just to check………. If ECU pin 33 does not go to chassis earth and the wire is the colour stated above, then there is a break in the loom between the ECU and the internal loom earth joint. Firstly I suggest you check the back of the ECU plug in the covering cap for a wire break. In the loom somewhere all three wires are joined and go via 4th brown wire to earth out of the loom binding onto a stud mounting, not far from the engine connector. So look down the loom from the large engine loom connector on the left hand side around the engine block area. This earth stud should connect to ECU pin 33 with the ECU, CPS and Air Temp plugs separated from their component connections. Given the relay substitution, ie. not the same part, if the wire is BROWN WITH A BLUE STRIPE on pin 33, AND ONLY IF IT IS, make a jump lead into the back of the ECU connector and take pin 33 to earth nearby. Quick check between CPS pin 3, and chassis earth and ECU pin 33 to make sure the earth circuit is now there. Now see if the engine will start up and run. Remember your battery may be too low in voltage for the ignition electronics to work (below 10 volts while the engine is turning on the starter is about the low voltage limit, so the battery could do with a charge if it is a lower than 10 volts while starting). If all is well with the jump earth lead, you have a fault in this wire in the loom probably at the internal 4 way joint. The only way to find that is a small bulge and hope it is the joint in question. Next question is why has it happened???

OK as I thought. There is no separate procedure to “reset” the alarm. For those asking, the instruction in the earlier part of this thread to disconnect the battery and reconnect is the last ditch point followed by the obligatory ECU set-up procedure. There is no risk to a normal Conlog 900 doing this nor a power up set-up procedure. It will just come back on and operate normally unlike the Scorpion 5000. If the 900 is faulty, then disconnecting the power to it by pulling the battery earth connection is your risk as to whether it will continue to operate! Programming this alarm used quite comprehensive little piece of kit unlike the later Conlog 900 models. If a VW dealer can be found who remembers how to use the 900 test equipment, and still have it, then they may be able to help. The drawbacks are possibly two fold. You must have the “Master” key fob. It is identified by the LED lens in the fob being red translucent plastic where are as the slave fobs are clear plastic. If that is not in your possession of the Master fob, then nothing can be done with the alarm as the alarm controller under the dash only recognises this fob to do anything to the alarm in terms of set –up or adding fobs (upto six slaves). The second is that the ratio of Conlog trained/installer VW dealerships was 1:4 or there abouts in the mid 1990’s, the other 3: 4 where Scorpion trained/installers VW dealerships. Given, the Conlog alarms stopped being installed when Conlog went bust in 1999, many dealeships have changed franchise, gone bust etc and those who were Conlog based have probably forgotten how to operate the encoding equipment issued for the 900. The 950 & 951 are easier as they used a much simpler method but a code reader is still needed (Have one).

Next public appearance - 16th September, 1 day only. Thats it for this year. :wink:

That's commanding the alarm to switch off and then you switching on/off the ignition simply reprimes the alarm. If your battery fob is OK, ie. it quickly blinks red in the fob lens, then try disconnecting the battery da, da, da,.......... Other wise I suspect the alarm module is goosed. I will check the installation manuals tonight. Not aware of a "reset" unless it's in the depths of the documents somewhere.

Trying to keep it simple for a beginner dr-mat. You're on "experienced" level. I expect more of you! :) He will get there too.

No, just they haven’t set VAG-COM up correctly or have the wrong version of VAG-COM software. 2.0ltr 1992 – 1994 ECU is one of the early digital VAG diagnostics ECU, a problem child when it comes to reading it. ECU on a 16v 2.0ltr needs to be read with VAG-COM set at a baud rate fixed at 4,800 other wise it chokes up. Clearing it means turning the ignition off and on with a short delay for internal circuits to run down, (5 seconds). Go to options in VAG-COM and set it to that “Start Baud” is 4800. Save and check the program remembers to start at that speed by exiting VAG-COM and restarting it. Secondly, the version of VAG-COM has to be v409,1 or higher. The commonly used v311.2 doesn’t work on this engine ECU. Not much in a 16v engine ECU to read, 16 fault codes. Measuring blocks is poor with little other than some basics not related to this fault. Other circuits OK then. Right, that means the supply volts is OK fuse 15 confirms the fuse/relay is being supplied with battery voltage OK. Plug pin 1 on the transistor amp is an almost direct wire to the fuse/relay plate. It’s wire colour is black, no stripe as written before, 1.5mm. It goes into the fuse/relay plate via a connection inside the loom to plug G1 pin 4. It’s the middle white plug on the top row on the back of the fuse /relay plate. Inside the loom, the connection also goes to the ECU on pin 25. That’s why disconnecting the ECU from the circuit will isolate this wire. If pin 3 on the transistor amp goes to 11.5volts, then the ECU could be dragging down the voltage and therefore it is suspect. If the pin 3 voltage still gives low volts, then check the G1 fuse/relay plate output on pin 4. If volts OK on the fuse/relay plate pin, then suspect the loom connection otherwise, has G1 got corrosion on pin4. Your voltage check on the fuses has eliminated the ignition switch!

joebloggsvr69 I have the same 900. Know the fob. Reason I ask is cos hust at the end of Storm sales, the Conlog 950 951 alarm became available and that one is more complex and different. Doesn't lock the doors automatically as you describe unless the doors aren't opened, so I suspect that your first check is the get inside the dash and find the wire that links itself to the pin switch wire from the door pin switch. Check the colour coding of the wires at the door pillar and then follow back under the dash. The Corrado's pin switches are dual switches so it is not conclusive that the courtesy light working is confirmation that the switch and it's connection are OK. Next stick the fob in the socket that matches it's size with the four metal tabs going into the socket first. That will switch the alarm off. Leave a short while and then re-insert. The alarm will be primed again. Failing that, the battery can be disconnected on this alarm without any special set up procedues. So, radio codes etc., known, disconnect the batery for 5 minutes and then reconnect. Beaware in doing this you will also have to setup the engine ECU with a short drive and Basic Settings on group 001. See thread for this ..... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&lighter= That's all you can do. I suspect either the alarm has lost sight of the pin switch earthing as door opens or the alarm has gone faulty. Unfortunately, Conlog went bust around 2000 and no one has taken over direct support of their equipment. ====================== bigpants baby. I had that with insurance a while back, even insisting on an annual check. Changed insurance company. Both the Scorpion and Conlog alarms were, were cat 1 alarms. They lost their recognition as such from Thatcham about 5 years ago. Suggest you change the insurance company or you are probably faced with buying a new alarm that meets current cat 1 alarm standards and is recognised by Thatcham on their list.

Perhaps I should run some evening classes? What fee do you think is appropriate??? Measuring blocks is a parameter viewing option in VW Diagnostics on any ECU that supports it. And therefore if available in the specific ECU being interrogated, then VAG-COM will be able to present it all on screen when you select the Meas.Blocks 08 option. For the VR6 engine ECU which you have been advised to check it is ........... Group 006 field 1. - Open VAG-COM, select "Select", select "Engine", on next screen select Meas. Blocks 08. Now input 006 into the first field. In the windows next to this input appears field left - right, fields 1, 2, 3, 4. Look at field 1 and read what was written in my previous note. To clear the fault, you need to rectify the fault or it will re-appear. So if the probe looks faulty from my previous guidance notes, change the probe and then go to fault codes page and clear it. Also now check the probe is oscillating as per the previous note.. The fault should now not re-appear after you have driven a while. Now you will need to "reset" the ECU to clear the old lambda offset presets for the ECU fuelling map as can be seen in field 2, 3 & 4, (the fundamental reason for this procedure in the CF Knowledge Base section guide on ECU Reset). And then perform the ECU "BASIC SETINGS" procedure to re-align the throttle and engine ECU. The only way to do this is to disconnect & reconnect the battery, driven immediately for first 10 mintutes at least and after an hours use, do Basic Settings on the relevant Group number for your ECU as shown in the instructions in the thread. Read this thread and also please read the manual that’s on VAG-COM Ross-Tech website so you are familiar with the software’s terms and actions. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&lighter=

Which actual Conlog model number is it?

Checked the fuses on the side of the fan controller? Slow fan suggests it’s seized a bit and blown something. 3 fuses on the control box in the engine bay but the 5 amp is the secondary electrical water pump – ignore for this fault. Look at the two bigger fuses 20Amp and the 50Amp plate fuse. Also check fuse 13, 10Amp for pre August 1994 and fuse 6, 30Amp for a post August 1994 C. First stage failing - Is the radiator thermo switch outputting 12 volts on pin1 (red wire with white strip)? Input 12 volts is on pin 2, red wire with no stripe. Second stage outputs on pin 3, red with black stripe wire. Obviously the engine will need to be HOT! Speed three is controlled by a switch in the thermostat housing with a black wire with yellow stripe for the 12 volts input and black with white stripe output to the fan controller. Fan Controllers for are quite common to other VWs of the era so a scrappy will quite possibly have one.

Two standard VAG alarms for 1995 C - Scorpion 5000 or Conlog 900. Normally, auto arming is the immobiliser bit if you have opened the doors or boot, ie. pin switches. Does that after about 2 mins if you haven't started the engine/switch the ignition on. Indications should show on the dash LED(s) If you don't open the doors etc, then after the same period, the alarm re-arms fully. Was a Cat 1 requirement at the time. It assumes that you've gone somewhere and forgotten to set the alarm again.

Goodridge hoses, you should be OK. I'll be thinking about this next time as even the replacement rubber ones on the C have started to go. The C , replacement hoses now 2 year old, have blotted their copy book with the front left. The fluid was clear in the other three lines, the front left wasn't, it was mid straw brown when flushed / bled 8 weeks ago. Closer inspection showed the hose had a wet patch! Doh. It's under repeat inspection due this weekend after finding 4 weeks ago. Any hint and its OFF! Hence my comment earlier about the 18 months old brake fluid in the photo earlier in this thread. Track days could also be an influence, that hasn't written by the owner on the use of the C the fluid came from.

OK dug out the relevant photo’s. The history was in each case like this, change the brake fluid and then about 2 – 4 weeks later the hoses had brake fluid “wetness” in small patches plus the ballooning as per the second photo. The first photo shows a rear brake hose which as started to “tell-tale” sweat along the length, the condition of the front hose before it was taken off the car and cut open. The middle photo shows what happens when the inner hose punctures enough to leak pressure into the cloth braided area. The fluid gets trapped and builds up into the ball as seen under the outer rubber hose. In the bottom photo, clearly the construction can be seen in the lower two hose halves. Outer rubber hose, cloth braided centre and then the inner brake hose carrying the brake fluid. The braided cloth acts as a movement aid as the inner and outer hoses move relative to each other and stops the two hose walls sticking as when turning. The top two halves are a faulty hose, nothing was visible externally but the inner hose can clear be seen collapsed. As I wrote earlier, this seems to occur with new brake fluid on older hoses (5 years plus) and when the car is lightly used. So this is why an inspection about 2 to 4 weeks after changing the brake fluid on standard VW rubber hoses is wise, particularly older rubber hoses. Those of you who run a Corrado at weekends only or a couple of times a month may think about the check. Not seen it occur like this on daily drivers, probably something to do with the hoses being regularly flexed by the brake pressure, so the rubber doesn’t deteriorate.

I presume this was the fault code 00515 and you have a VR6 with a coil pack. It will only reoccur when you rev the engine up above about 4,000 rpm. When it's present in memory the ECU is forced into limp home mode which will retard the ignition timing and rev limit the engine to about 6,000 rpm. If so,.... That fault if it reappears is separate. The infamous camshaft position sensor - £40ish and half hour DIY job. After new part is fitted, you must clear the fault before the ECU will operate normally.

Yes, that was the next check. The relay is in position 3 and marked 109. Part number 357 906 381A which happens to be the same as the VR6 ECU relay. The check is above 9 volts or above on pin 87 of the relay when it switches over with the ignition on and there should be battery volts always available to pin 30. Should be possible to get the relay to sit high on the panel and carefully put the meter prob on the relay leg BUT be careful not to short the earth to it while on voltage. There is no fuse protection of the supply to pin 30! Substitution of the relay is safer option.

Original rubber VW ones dinkus. Interesting design feature to alert of a problem but don't know if it is VW being deliberate. ie. a "tell-tale" check. Goodridge will be OK as will fitting new originals at the time of the fluid change is the issue. It's new fluid with old hoses fitted that you have to watch out for. I'll post a photo tonight of what happens internally during a failure case. B****y nuisance with partly stored cars.

Lambda probe, go to measuring blocks group 006 field 1 (lambda active). With engine running and warmed up to oil over 80'C, is this field value oscillating about every 0.5 or 1 seconds with a value between 0.95 and 1.02? If not that value or it is rock solid on value 1.0, lambda probe has gone. That would explain 1, 3 & 5. 2 cos its ignition only. 4 doesn't show on a good engine if stationary. Looks like the ECU has wobbled. Clear the lambda and it may all come clean with the engine running when you read it.

Yes not good but I'm surprised at that! I've recently come across one brake caliper being darker than the other at the front. (Not that much though). When investigated, I found that the flexible rubber hose was sweating which means the inner rubber hose has a small hole somewhere. May be worth just making sure the brake hoses on that car are bone dry. Likewise dinkus, about 3 - 4 weeks after you've got the fluid changed, just check the hoses front and back plus clutch (5 off in total) are dry and no "wetness" is showing, sometimes a patch the size of a penny and no bulges have appeared. New fluid has a habit of doing in older brake hoses sometimes. Tends to be less used cars, something to do with standing and the brakes out of use.

Quite agree dr_mat. That reads like a quick bed in before a track circuit drive and components take second place for long life versus instant brakes for the track. Better to apply brakes steadily over a 100 miles and just allow for reduce effect until they settle in.

Officially a full flush of the system is 500ml per brake caliper line. Plus the Clutch circuit. So I guess I'd say you would be safe leaving them with 2.0 ltrs. I can do it in 0.8 ltrs but I do it regularly ain't too bothered at getting the last drop out.

I don't suspect the ECU but it completes the picture so that you can judge. I suspect the ignition switch has broken one of it's switches, quickly confirmed by none of the listed items suchs as turn signals and horn working properly. Engine start is for instance on another switch inside the ignition switch so that is why the starter still works. Disconnectinng the ECU is a way of taking out a "electrical load" if it is bad. The other "loads" on the circuit don't partly short or are not in circuit until activated by a switch such as the horn pad for the horn. What I don't understand about this is why you are seeing 4.3 volts. I can't see where the voltage can back feed a leak to get this voltage level. That's why I have asked you to pull the ECU connector off as that's the most likely back feed route. Phaw, dealers....... always educating them. And not just the Corrado either.

Just answered your other post on voltages you have measured today. No equivalent relay on 16v 9A Corrado.

Oh, right, the transistor amplifier shouldn’t be 4.3volts across the unconnected plug pins (12 volts & earth). What is it from pin 1 on the transistor amplifier plug, ignition on, and the meter’s negative is on the car’s earth. 12 volts or the same 4.3 volts?. With ignition on, go on fuse 15 (10amps) and measure voltage relative to car earth. 12 volts or the same 4.3 volts? If neither gives you 12 volts but lower, then my suspicions are that one of the switches in the ignition switch has gone in the steering column. If this is the case some other electrical circuits with ignition switched on will not be working properly such as turn signals, horn, reversing lights and HRW. The ECU is also on the same 12 volt circuit. On the ignition switch at the column, the black with no colour stripe wire is the same igntion supply output as the transistor amplifier plug pin 1. 12 volts or something like 4 to 5 volts? The Hall Effect sender connection derives it’s power on pin 3 of the distributor's plug. This derived from the ECU so I would expect a slight drop of the supply passing through the ECU. So your are right in suspecting the problem is further upstream. If not the ignition switch, disconnect the battery to protect the ECU, disconnect the ECU, and reconnect the battery. Now switch on the ignition and check the fuse 15 voltage = 12 volts, check the voltage on pin 1 of the transistor amplifier, = 12 volts. If still 4.3 volts, then it still points to the ignition switch. If 12 volts with the ECU out of circuit, then the engine ECU has blown.

In the clear plastic covered area, there is a fuse that looks like small metal plate, that one. There is a small screw at each end holding it in place.

Have you checked the fuses? That "thing" that sticks up in the engine bay above the gearbox is the fan controller. It could be karputt but just check the fuses in the clear plastic covered area on the engine side.