RW1

That's the equivalent of the VR6 crank sensor!

Also pin 1 carries the speed pulses from the gearbox (radio volume control v speed). If this is the powered aerial motor connection on the ICE, then this blue wire will need cutting and insulating.

There is the hall effect sender in the distributor that may have gone duff. Check as follows: Pull fuse 18 to stop fuel pump priming. Pull the plug of the side of the distributor. Switch on the ignition and check on the loose plug at the distributor that between the out pins there is 9 volts or greater. If yes, suspect the Hall Effect Sender inside the distributor. The plug on the side wall of the distributor is part of the plastic plate carrying the H.E.S. Check wiring to this plug joint is in good condition. ------------------ The second item in the ignition chain is the transistor amplifier next to the coil. They can sometimes blow. With ignition off, pull the connector off and check the 12 volt supply is there across the outer pins when the ignition is switched on. Again check wiring condition to connector is not damaged. ----------------------------------- Finally, when you changed the ignition leads recently, did you refit the No1 cylinder impulse sender?

Are you sure they are oily and it's not running too rich? Agree the 1 to 5 plugs are the wrong type. And the VR6 is designed for one plug only in mind, the NGK. Spark uses the insulator as well as the gap to bridge across the plug. Photos for me not too clear, the black looks a little dull for oil. May just be the photos. Obviuosly as stated, it is using oil. Check ignition lead resistance is 5k to 7k ohm resistance just to be sure there are no problems getting the spark in the cylinders. 10w40 to 15w40 in the UK won't make that much difference if it's oil getting into the cylinders.

Does fit the slave cylinder isn't moving as you should be able to hear the clutch "mechanically" move.

Pedal never goes all the way down unless you open both front or rears together. If only opening only one bleed nipple at a time, the other brake circuit is still working normally, so the pedal only goes a fair way down. If you've "pumped" the pedel and heated up the master cylinder until it felt "rubbery" as you pushed down, not smooth and silent, then it is quite likely that the master cylinder has gone but it does mean that you've blown both parts of the master cylinder. Alternatively, you have introduced air into both circuits at the calipers. Find it hard to believe both parts of the master cylinder has gone. To get rid of air if it is there..... On a flat surface for the car, open each bleed nipple (4) and allow the brake fluid to free flow out under it's own gravity. Shut off each nipple as fluid emerges without air bubbles. Now try the brakes. If no free flowing fluid comes out of the nipple, then you have possible collapsed brake rubber hose parts of the brake system near one of the wheels but I would not expect all four to be like this. A brake system's plumbing in working order will always flow fluid whether it be the front and back wheels. Throughout, keep the brake reservoir topped up and do not allow it to drop more than 1/3 rd from the top shoulder.

Most likely the slave cylinder has gone, item above the gearbox with a brake bleed niplle on it, connecting into a curly bit of pipework, then a rubber brake hose. Alternatively, the brake reservoir fluid level is low and has dropped below the cluthc feed about 1/3 below the top of the reservoir top. Always keep this reservoir full to the plastic arrow impression on the side at the top near to the shoulder point.

Not declared to the VWCCGB in last 8 years.

Fine, just as put away from the previous year. Stored in an air conditioned large brick box. Do have a daily driver S of the same age. It's actually faster than the daily S dispite the K-jet mods on the daily driver S. Hmmmm. And the daily has a recently overhauled engine and skimmed head and still it isn't quite as good. Had 5 Sciroccos, 3 from new, and none have been the same, even these two and the previous K-Jet from 1990 all drive differently yet were all made within a 3 months period at Karmann. When I got it, the engine wouldn't "go", brakes were giving braking distances of 50 feet difference, hairy one day as I shot into a roundabout cos I forgot which car I was in. Found the cam shaft spocket drive wheel had been fitted wrong way round at the factory. So valves were retard a fair amount and so the lady owner could never have thrashed it even if she want to. And this also meant the vacuum servo was not as strong in it so the brakes weren't quite as good. All sorted now :-)

!! talcum powder. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 6&lighter=

20,000 But first 15,000 were done in 1990 - 1991. Project when I got my hands on it was to replace anything that was damaged or rusted - which was very little as it had never really gone anywhere other than to the shops by the lady owners.

Brand new (almost) - runs only 8 miles a year to it's MoT and back. Totally original. Featured in The Golf - February 2003. In store but I really must get it out for Eric at Stanford 2006. :-)

Not local to you. Check the sticky list.

"That guessing results symptoms such as stalling on the overrun, roughish engine behaviour (like a slight misfire), the engine slowing slightly without movement of the throttle at small throttle openings, hiccup on pick-up from idle, dullness in the throttle response from shut until opened up a fair way resulting in the car leaping forward as things wake-up, ie. the ECU doesn't see throttle movement, then suddenly does." Go here........ http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&lighter= Your ECU doesn't know where the throttle is. Carry out Basic Settings are per the thread.

Sorree for the bad news but better prepared for the possibility than hit bluntly later.

That has a feeling of a bad connection at one of the plugs you touched! Check pins for damage/dirt and wire condition/connections at the back of both plugs in the shield covers. Check what ever else you touched as well.

Lot of factors involved like a slightly worn engine which won't have as much compression due to bore wear, rings worn or valves not quite seating as well as they should do. Or the engine is out of adjustment for timing anyway. That's why it's worth trying before any adjustments for ordinary 95RON unleaded. Every ones 16v will be slightly different, some quite happy on 95RON, some maybe except when overheating on the rad fan and some which wil pink at normal running temperature. Doesn't your engine is poorly though!

Yip, with large long connecting plug.

No, change over was at August 1991 for all models.

More likely to be the rings are getting worn with this. Start up puff is usually the valve stem seals. "It does drink a lot of oil and 1 or 2 of the spark plugs are wet " If its No. 1 & 6 may have broken rings, quite common, the cylinders on the back off side corner and the front nearside corner. There is a thread back 8 weeks ago on this. basically need to do some tests such as compression to determine.

Early watercooled VW models had a design range of about 350 - 400 miles between fill ups. Later it was 500 - 550 miles.

Yep, 15 gallon plastic tank on later C's (70 litres). Early had metal tanks 12 gallons (55 litres).

If fine as long as the engine doesn't pink. This is the issue behind it all. You need to experiment with a bottom 1/4 tank full of unleaded. If it pinks, then fill up with super or LRP. (Mixing one tank of LRP & unleaded won't harm while you test) Some 16v OK, some bad and need either retiming (retarding) or K-Star fitted. Super unleaded ain't that much more these days, or least at Sainsbury's where I go it ain't so stuff the difference and run on 97RON super instead of 95RON. Best of Supers octane wise is Total (98 even 99 sometimes). 1.8ltr 16v's "KR" are 98RON designed. They will run on 95RON unleaded due to tolerances/wear. 98 to 95 does have a small power drop but for every day driving, it's small. Valve seats on all watercooled VWs have been OK for unleaded since late 1970's.

Yep dr_mat. Throttle body changed in August 1995 so that's at least one area were it works differently. Later ECU expects motorised throttle.

Don't have more recent info on post 1992 cars. In some cases like the VR6, the ECU rev limits and much earlier than the FPR would kick in so don't know if the back-up is built in to these relays with the more intelligent ECUs. Careful or the little gremlims will infest your car at the next meeting!