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Which production year for seats and what production year for the car? If seats are off something other than a Corrado, need that. Then I 'll see if I can sort out the diagrams
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Check the front hub connections for moisture, apply WD40. If still on, check the sensors are 1.2kOhm +/- 300 ohm.
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Waste of time. £1.20 by Christamas and will still be rising like f***. This ain't a blip. Roll on 1974 - blackouts, having to walk, 3 day week, wild cat strikes. Good thing though, loads of 4x4 going cheap next year.
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If the vacumm pipe has dropped off, I'd expect to see 99.9 mpg indicated.
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There are now "wire" warning pads on C's. Reservoir float switch or handbrake micro-switch are only sources for th elight being unless a wire has chafed to earth.
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Made in the Rhine Factory.
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If the sender on the gearbox is skyward, speddo would be dead. Not put a stereo ICE in recently?
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Naa, Some items are two tone colours and they're different in the second photo plus the cadium plated items are two far gone to recover like that. They've been replaced.
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Ended up buying the Autogylm's engine cleaner today as I didn't need the finisher. Good stuff and doesn't "etch" like Gunk does. Was only doing certain areas to tidy up. Where I sprayed it got to grips and spraying with a Karcher afterwards removed all I expected. Still don't believe the photos at the begining of this thread. Yeah the stuff cleaned the engine bay generally but a lot of the "bright" bits have been replaced.
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CHeers Suprecharged. That was there at my Halfords but I was looking for a "TurtleWax" product, as that was your previous description. Sorted. .
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At least three factorys I seem to remember in the seventies but I'm sure Eric will enhance. Two in Germany making all sort of cars as written above and one factory in Brazil involved in car production. They've got more office/factories in Portugal, USA & Mexico. Osnabruck does more than just two car lines. It's an engineering company site with good CAD / Laser cutter facilities etc.. A lot of car stampings made there for all sorts of companies. Rounded one corner in the factory in 1999 and there were stacks of crates to the roof with front and back Jaguar XK8 wings going to Coventry! Rhine plant use to make a Kia, yep, look at the embosed emblem on the side door pillar on that little "Jeepy" thing of theirs. Prototype production lines of the Golf Mk3 estate before it was moved to Wolfsburg. Fascinating place if you are into engineering in any way. Their speciality is really short / low volume productions runs of car assembly with flexible staff. Scirocco 1 /Beetle Convertible /Karman Ghia bucked the trend but they didn't start out with that intention with VW generally. Their headache is that production costs are higher than normal and others are now muscling in - usual story of an older established company. Goto to the website: http://www.karmann.com/website_all/home ... ortal.html Lots of good detail and history of the company which goes back to the late 1800's when they made little two wheel horse & trap type things, hence why the old Beetle and Golf Convertible top covers contain real horse hair in their lining! They use to make Adler cars (German) before WW2, yes the typewriter company which after WW2 abandoned car making to make typewriters which why when you get into the "personal collection" room you will see Adler cars from the 1930's as well as a horse & trap carriage. .
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I have "fixed" a Corrado out in New Zealand, .... for a radiator bird strike! That Corrado was a VR6 Storm. What do the side and rear glass decals state? Point is the screen may be a replacement which if none VW can be made anywhere these days. The side windows & rear will tell you more the truth. C's went to various countries and each would have had different market spec. Best to ring VAG and ask the history.
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Supercharged Went to Halfords last night. Nope, nowt on the shelf like this. They thought I was nuts. Picture or product code? .
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ABS ECU 00285 is front right hand ABS sensor so the ABS light will have been on or is on. If not, is the ABS lamp filament OK? Check the sensor at the wheel hub plug break. Resistance should be 1.2 kohm +/- 300 ohms. If not, it’s whacked. If OK then WD40 the connections and clear the fault down. See if it returns. If fault does return, check the ABS ring fitted to the disc is running true, ie. the gap between it and the sensor face is constant. If the ABS ring is OK then fit a replacement wheel sensor. 00276 & 00532. First port of call, WD40 the electrical connector’s contacts which sits on the front of the valve block. Clear the fault down and see if it returns. Also, a querk of the ABS is to throw faults when they are not there , generally because of a genuine fault that has occurred, in this case the 00285. Engine ECU 00513 is a OBD1 diagnostics querk. It indicates to me that you did these checks with the ignition on but the engine stopped. This 00513 will clear as the engine starts. Ignore! 17978 is caused by the immobiliser on a post Oct’94 Corrado stopping the engine starting. At some stage recently or it still does, the Corrado starts on the key and immediately dies within 1 to 2 seconds. The most likely cause is the little connector (brown) which connects the key sensor ring’s cable (shiny black) into the immobiliser box which is located inside the dash behind the headlight switch area. Take the fuse shelf cover off and the under dash panel. You will find two boxes on the lower lip panel of the dash. The immobiliser is the lower box and the problematical connection is the inboard one. Disconnect the connection (3 pin) and WD40 both the connector and the box connection. Refit the connection and gently work it back and forth a few times. Should be OK from now on. See the photo. As before clear down the fault code, but 00513 will return always if the engine is not running. 00513 as a “hard” fault is different and can only be caught when the engine stops and the ignition ISN’T turned off and you connect the diagnostics in that condition. .
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Your combination should work on a VR6 and 303.1 will be OK but other engines ie. 9A, ADY & 2E don't work in some cases as those engine ECU's are finicky. ABS is generally benign no matter what cable/VAG-COM version.
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As Supercharged says for the whole unit but did you mean the "mirror"? .
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Yes, it is but you need to use v409.0 or later with the baud rate set to 4,800 for the engine ECU. If you leave it set to free run or enter at any other speed it will choke the ECU which means switching the ignition off and then on again and then try again. Use the otpions and set "start baud rate" to 4800 and save it. I run two separate directories on the laptop, one for all cars set to 9600 and 16v 9A directory with 4800 set. The two copies of VAG-COM see the authorisation OK. The 9A's ECU is odd ball and very picky on the communications even if you do above, the laptop port may still hinder you. Did two 16v 9A's on VWCCGB NatDay, Sunday at Castle Howard. Just need now to crack the '92 G60 that defeated me yesterday. My optp-isolator is away in Italy this month to sort out some new software on beta testing for PDAs so I don't know if it may be the reverse of the 9A, ie it doesn't like the electronic interface. 9A Engine ECU won't work with v311, v208, the early versions that are commonly knocking around and you must have an electrionically isolated interface, opto types won't work. ABS is as usual as per other C's if fitted with the ECU controller. As said, if so, it's a transplant. .
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Ah, your's is actually an 1989 model as both '88 & 89 didn't have the ignition switch trick.
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Undo the small centre plug first with a small allen key, That drops the oil out of the filter area. Then put a strap, not a chain round it or find a socket that fits the bolt head fitting around the drain plug area. Make sure the socket is exact size or it will round the plastic, not advisable to use an open ended spanner as it puts too much strain on the plastic. The housing shouldn't be on tight that it takes loads of effort. Fit new rubber "O" ring which should come with filter when refitting. ******* I can't type as fast as you Kev with my thumbs!
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Line pressure. And you will need to be able to bleed out the gauge and coupled pipe after fitting before testing. Chris
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Nope. The last ones (last 25 UK destine) were in the main 8v's, two VR6's and one 16v. Nothing special about them other than the very last Corrado made was a VR6 Storm model, one only at this point, the other 499 being made between February & early May 1995. Campaign was a special dealer reward car issued (6 off) for sales acheivements in 1992 for Karmann made cars. Never formally for sale. All VR6's but taken of the line early so have some odd differences like the early dash with slider heater controls rather than rotary heater controls. Had a unique to the build of the six of a brown leather interior including the dash covered in leather and matching leather steering wheel and carpeting. .
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Watch the Bentley, its the Teves 02 system. Different, principle is the same but illustrations are different due to design diferences. Full tank of petrol, spare wheel on board and jack (Weight in vehicle). Make sure brakes are fully bled of air. Bouce the car a few times. Pressure gauges on calipers. Apply brake pedal to measure 50 bar on front caliper gauge, back should be 27 - 33 bar. Again but front to 100 bar, back should be 48 to 54 bar. 2 gauges, one circuit at a time. ie. front right/rear left, front left, rear right, order not important but good balance between sides is. It won't balance for the axle, then look at rubber brake hoses, may have internal collapse walls, usually spottable on visual due to bulges or sweating brake fluid on surface. Adjust the pressure regulator to get these figures. Measuring a mechanical datum won't get these figures as it's pressure balance that matters and you don't know what your mechanical datum is in the first instance. .
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The water pump is an exchange unit at VW. part no 037 121 010AX. The suffix "A" denotes certain size inlet and outlet couplings so although they all look similar on 8v engines, the flow rate varies. Suggest you stick with the original standard or it may lead to temperature problems in harder driving circumstances.
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It sounds like it has silted up. Not unusual. They don't clean out easily and what can be done only lasts a short time. Replacement unfortunately. What you shouldn't do is just have a feed pipe to the carb and no feed back to the tank. Pumped fuel has nowhere to go if the needle valve shuts and pressure builds up forcing the carbs needle valve open thus flooding/rich mixture. It's been there since the early engines. They where black plastic cannisters on the early engines. About 1984 they went metal. Basically inside the fuel drops in at the top. Cos it's sealed the carb pipe which picks up near the bottom of the cannister which in theory the fuel has no air bubbles. The third pipe diverts it back to the tank if the carb feed is shut.
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Cheers Gavin, That looks like Lambda is OK on what you saw. It can be one of the causes. But with this fault there may be two probes, front and aft of the cat. Vacuum leaks is the one I’d really check in detail. I had a thought this morning that maybe the car’s had a bad shot of fuel and the filters become partially blocked thus reducing the fuel flow. A pressure check on the lower side of the spec would indicate that. Changing the filter (cheaper option) would leave the pump itself. Pressure after the regulator at the engine should be above 2.5 bar but no more than 3 bar. I only quote this as typical as some pumps run at different pressures/flow rates. The other possibility is the exhaust is leaking. There are so many variances in detail. Could do with which year the car is, mileage and its engine code. Also, is it stock or has any part of the induction or exhaust been changed? – air filter, cat removed, non standard exhaust. Discount. Free this Sunday, one day offer only - 10 til 4pm. You’ve got to be 14 miles north east of York ;) Chris .