junkie

lol thats what i meant to write down, the ultimate in my eyes and as soon as i can both find and afford some they will be gracing the interior of my car. So some more interior shots would be appreciated please mate, were they easy to fit, do you sit right (nice and low still)?

Oh and some may know i have now fitted the Ferodo DS2500 pads, just need to run them in and away we go.

Best thing is just to re do all the fittings, as 1 of mine was half off and couldnt be seen due to positioning of intercooler and pipework.

Right then i have just quickly converted the Nm figure to torque, to show the actual torque figures as in my eyes it is a good torque curve but the graph makes it look short and peaky when its down to the torque peaking so high in the 1st place. As can be seen i have a minimum of 260lb/ft between 3000rpm > 6000rpm, now at 2500rpm its 166lb/ft which is the same as a G Lader peak torque and quite close to a pullied, chipped and flowed charger, and right on the limiter its still doing more than the previously mentioned set up. For the torque to double in 1000rpm between 2500rpm > 3500rpm as it comes on boost you can imagine the problems i have with traction in 1st and 2nd :) hence why i need longer gearing and quite possibly i may be trying the CTN as a cheap alternative to the VR6 set up, i think i have made my mind up. RPM = lb/ft - BHP 2500 = 166 - 80 3000 = 258 - 150 3500 = 317 - 215 4000 = 332 - 255 4500 = 339 - 295 5000 = 317 - 300 5500 = 291 - 300 6000 = 258 - 300 6500 = 239 - 295 On the 2 seperate graphs with red lines they are the same dyno run from my engine, just shows you how different they can look to the eye as in the 2nd graph it looks like it has more torque for longer compared to the 1st graph even though they are identical runs. So again Green line is torque, Black line is BHP So opinions please?

I am really stuck with the decision as on paper the CTN looks better for my engine, but every1 i talk to thinks they will be too long. I think for normal driving thats when they will be too long and make the boost drop off constantly but when used to the limiter they would be perfect maybe??? Easier to do the CTN and probably cheaper too, i just need to have a drive in a car with them in, drove the VR6 and i liked it although i only got to the top of 3rd on the roads i was on where as in my car on the same road i would get into 4th. Riley you talking from any experience from both mate?

Id be checking the boost pipes :)

Common with the FK's

2 different types as well early and late, the 1 in the pic is early.

Pretty much perfect in my eyes, its bloody gorgeous. What front seats you got in there? Audi A8 by any chance, if so i need to see some more pics.

I dont know of any for sale and i cant remember the last time i saw some either for sale, they stopped doing them about 4 years ago when i asked them.

How much would i expect to pay for a steering wheel to be retrimmed, not sure whether i am going for leather or suede/something more motorsport inspired?

Cheers mate appreciated :D

If you cant afford it just lay it up for a while, a few of us on here have had to including myself, was really hard to do it but hey at least i still have it for when. If you cant imagine laying it up then you will def not sell it or break it.

Well it sounds as the previous owner knew then.

Well regardless of mileage what condition is it in, must be good as you bought it still. I would rather have a stonking condition high mileage car than low mileage shed. Has it got the history, old MOT's service stamps etc? Still gutting but may not be so bad.

Is it me or has he designed the arches around the whels with those tyres on, surely even slammed on air with smaller tyres on it would look wrong, not saying it looks right now either.

Soo inefficient due to been designed way back many years ago :D

You get this when not driving it properly You get this when driving it properly

I have had my Nak CD 400 for 4 years and they must have made improvements to the early 1's as it has a design that keeps the cd more stable, bear in mind i'm on coilovers, poly bushes etc and it does skip but quite rarely after 4 years use and abuse and not a single fault. Dont buy something where all the money has been spent of christmas tree lights. The display on mine does change to green or amber or a mixture of the 2, 2 different ways, looks cool in my eyes but most people frown upon it and get the comments that i should get something better and updated, little do they know eh :D Cost me £500 back then.

There is talk of the Gwerks CNC heads hitting 250bhp with a ported charger running smaller pullies but still not seen a graph to prove it, i think Darrens CNC big valve works out around £1400ish may be more though.

So you went to view a true poverty spec then.

That looks proper tidy, good buy i say. 8)

I changed my front brake pads which for me is a monumental task, all in 4 hours to do, 30 min to change them and 3 1/2 hours to scratch my arse, smoke fags, drink coffee and asking questions on here.

Im sure the Polo GTI had 17's too but unsure of stud pattern, if its anything like my Mrs 1'2 polo then its 5 x 100

Get it on ED38 it will fetch at least £100 :lol: