junkie

Well i hope you have fully recovered from your shock :D so you can get on with it some more. Be a good idea to get the pics of the build put up when you get time but im sure thats already in hand, so pics pics please.

I think the reason for them been expensive is the fact they are 2 piece discs.

There was a members thread on it but i cant find it, do you know the guys username on here or get in touch with him and ask him to point you in the right direction on here for you.

Any updates then mate?

I can safely say the 312 vag set up do not feel as beefy on the foot compared to the brembos, so i would def do it right 1st time especially as you have all the time in the world and you could fund the brakes by selling the brembos and a set of wheels :D

An ex forum motor i see you have there.

I have FK konigspoets (read bone shakers) i can cope with the stiffness and maybe im been unfair but i know there is better out there. They look like a right pain to adjust and people will say how often will you adjust them but personally on mine i am always doing it to keep fine tuning them to get them how i want, which is a point of there been better out there, they take too much fiddling about with.

If the compressor doesnt run then i presume they weighed the gas charge in hoping to get the compressor off its pressure switch if it has 1 fitted and that is a bargain. Well obviously something is holding them off full speed but as to what i have no idea mate, as i say i have never looked into car A/C what so ever, the basic principles are the same as any other A/C and refrigeration but its all about the different controls that the systems utilise and unfortunately i have no idea what controls are in a cars A/C. When you say basic settings what do you mean, is it like a test run kind of idea as usually when doing that it will override all the safety features and settings and just run basically at full regardless if you can change the settings ie: temp, fan speed airflow direction. So my theory is that it is sensing the fault and coincidentally regarding airflow so as a safety feature again its holding it off slightly as to prevent damage, so obviously on test its overriding everything and apparently working ok.

They did my 1st exhaust and they sized the pipe wrong (too small) it always had a slight knock (went back numerous times always goot looked at never fixed), boxes/baffles didnt last long, had a lifetime warranty and was so unhappy with them i went elsewhere (Blueflame) top job not 1 single problem, made to a higher standard and for cheaper, bargain.

Look here in the knowledge base

Foobaring hell, well nice 8) 8) 8)

Provided there is sufficient material to maintain the strength integrity and there is a flat mounting surface on the back they can be re drilled and you can machine the mounting face to the hub down also to make it sit more in the arch again if sufficient material is there. If you have changed the width then surely the ET will have changed to 21 if they were 11 to star with.

cough repost cough Apologies accepted. :D

I think they are, they do some DS3000 i think that are no good for the road, just the track.

I sold some fixed platform spax to my mate with a mk3 8v as i was told its all interchangeable but he soon after sold the car and never actually got round to fitting the kit.

I cant help on the central locking front but you can manually open the fuel cap from inside the boot, really awkward till you know where it is but there is a rod that needs sliding by hand behind the carpet on the boot side.

So have we all just stumbled upon some extremely rare parts (even more rare than storm leather) if the press cars had full black interior.

All been well you wont have a leak, the most common cause for the gas leaking out is the gas molecules are smaller than the molecular structure of the pipes, all thats required to prevent it happening is to turn the air con system on and let it run for 5-10 minutes once a month minimum so the oil in the system seals the pipes up internally.

I think so, it should just use slightly more fuel.

It was just your original post saying it blows cold and hot that caused me some confusion. So it will blow warm but presumably just like any other car does without air con/climate. Well i would def get it re gassed 1st, as with office A/C type splits, depending on how sophisticated (read expensive) they are, the PCB control will slow the fan speed as to try and compensate for the loss in capacity in cooling or heating, also when you 1st start the car the air con should time out for maybe a minute say with the fan speed lower then once the compressor kicks in the fan sped raises depending on how much demand there is all by your set point, so the colder you set it the more demand there is, and vice versa for heating. So if the compressor is tripping on the low pressure switch, which it would do when its short of gas then the fan speed my not be raising. Also on heating the fan speed should be slower. All this is based on A/C split systems and as i say i have no experience working on car air con.

Im not fully clued up on car A/C but the refrigerant pressure switch should be a safety device either low pressure or high pressure switches to prevent as you say the compressor running, so its protecring the compressor from failing. How do you know it needs re gassing if its blowing hot or cold? Is it cooling but only just? On our Mazda 3 courtesy car when its put onto the screen it automatically blows really fast and automatically puts the air con into dehumidify mode and does what it needs to do depending on outside air temp.

Just noticed your thread in the members mate hehe, you beat me to it.

Still not right but a similar design to show you the 15 look corrado.jpg[/attachment:v44i97qe]

Are you the guy that used it on the outside and not the inside obviously with the 2 diff types and got confused somewhere along the lines.

Mine are Extreme Dynamatted with 1 bulk kit between the 2 front doors and Source where i take my car for stereo work re fitted the door membranes.