Toad

My valver lost about 40bhp through the transmission when I rollererereererereereededededisededediserered it.

Can't get onto VAG CAT, but my etka is showing me a load of sensors with the part no. 049 919 501 Which I guess is them, I think they're all the same unit, the three water temp senders on the end of the head and the one for the oil on the back of the head. Think Goldie bought one for his golf a little while back, so he might remember the no.

Yup. Did mine with an angle grinder :) Only opened one though for the time being.

Ditto. I can't really see the point of 2 [or more] road cars tbh, but then I'm not known for my conformist or balanced views :lol: One road car, 1 track car, or one road car, one company car.....I can go along with that, but 2 privately owned road cars is like having 2 wives, but you fancy one more than the other. And why pay to insure and tax the 2nd wife and only bang her once a month? Besides, nearly everything I've driven in recent years is just dull next to the C anyway. Fun for a week..... then I want the C back.....so I'd rather just devote all my time and money to one wife :-) 2 of them is just too complicated. I see your point. TBH, I've probably made the worst financial decision keeping 2 rados, especially as I was (well still am) in a fairly deep hole with the bank. I'm still not 100% that I will keep both cars. But I've not been in the position where both have been roadworthy for any amount of time. Currently the valver is a run around while I build up parts to rebuild the VR6. By the autumn, I hope to have a fully rebuilt VR6, with slight mods to the brakes, engine etc, which will be my daily driver. Then hopefully, the 16v will go into semi retirement, while I again start to buy parts to turn it into a fun 16v turbo weekend toy. My thinking is that if I do enough to the VR then I shouldn't have issues with too many breakdowns over the next few years, and it will work out as a fairly cheap car. If anything does go wrong, I can tool the valver around until the VR is fixed, and vice versa, helping to save on garage bills for urgent work. Might even rebuild the VR, run it around, then sell it on for a slight profit and buy a GT TDi etc. I know perfectly what you mean about only banging one once a month. I always prefer the one I'm in, until I actually get into the other one and realise what I've been missing. I suppose it's more like having a "comfortably built" female companion and a sporty model. One is comfortable and very willing and gets me to my destination nicely. The other is more taught and fun to throw around, but needs more effort from me.

The elbow seperates from the radiator, if it is the elbow(quite likely as they get brittle), then you can buy it seperately. There isn't an upgrade to the rad. AFAIK

There's a grommet in the passenger footwell, lift the carpet up at the very front and you'll see it easily enough.

The other corrado...

It might be something nefarious, but the car is getting to the age where components start to fail. Have a look at a gruven parts alloy rad neck, won't ever crack again. Might be similar waiting time to a vw unit. Strictly dubs sell them in the UK.

Just got sent this picture...

Yup to the wiring. Hammerite!

The early clocks have a multiplug at either side, not one like the later dials, and the cable should unclip from the back of the clocks apparently. I couldn't get mine out though... Wack a new cable in anyway, I don't think they are horrific money.

And the Karmann badge changes over the production run...

I want a Khaki one....

The later style solid plastic tensioner pad are far more long lasting, and they use a different style tensioner bolt with a flat end, rather than one with a nipple. I think all the kits they list use the later style tensioner pad and bolt, but there's a couple of different kits they list, you need the one with the duplex upper chain (some US cars had simplex upper chains). and for the right engine no. for your car. ( I think it's the earlier no.s for the corrado). I can't afford to buy the kit at the moment, I'm pretty short of cash right now, and I might have to save a few quid up for the shrick group buy on VR6OC.com :oops: Probably aiming for july for buying my kit.

The diesel one on my vr gives no vibration at all, and the lack of engine/gearbox flopping around reduced understeer too. Think the speedo cable just ends in a square bit of cable which slots into a square hole in the speedo gear. It's a bit of a pain in the ass to get the new one threaded through and fitted to the back of the instrument panel.

The little green O-Ring?

Why have you got that box of spare parts in your bed??? It wasn't that exciting recieving them, was it??? ROFL. Which gearbox mount did you get? mk2 deisel? New mounts make the car feel loooooads better.

When are you going to buy these? I'm planning on buying the full set from Four seasons, plus a clutch in the summer, and I know theres one other forum member who is interested in getting kit at the same time. If you aren't planning on buying for a while, we could all chip in and split shipping 3 ways. The chain kit was $155 last time I looked, not checked the shipping costs yet though.

Mark the old dizzy and head and try to get the new one as close to the old unit. It's just the 2 10mm bolts into the head you need to remove, and the dizzy cap and hall sender plug. Refit (the key for the rotor arm only fits one way into the end of the cam. you may find that marking the crank pulley and tdc mark on the plastic cover with tippex helps a great deal when you're trying to line them up with the timing light. set the beast to 6 degrees btdc, and enjoy.

Ok. Dude, that sounds like the ok of a man who is not ok! :D 1500 seems a bit steep for second hand, or is it really worth that much more than a schrick? I;ve never heard of Pierburg. Is that a heinous crime? Nah, that is the right price. Especially with chips to suit and the actuator to operate the flap. There aren't may proper peirberg units around, and as the Doctor has said, it actually fits properly, you don't need to take it apart to get at the plugs, and it looks a bit cooler. I'd love one, but I think I'll have to slum it with with a shrick for the time being. The VR was designed to come with this inlet manifold to get over the relatively low torque, sadly it was too expensive to fit as standard. I think it was a £2000 option when new.

I've been thinking about ringing someone to machine my flange out. I need a very specific inside diameter, and I want to make sure there are no restrictions giving me back pressure issues, otherwise I'll have been wasting my time, and won't gain anything from modifying my exhaust pipework.

Ok.

Funnily enough, I've been on his Ebay shop. Do you know if I can just weld a flexi joint onto a flange and or pipe?

Is it for a pound? PM me either way ;)

Evening. Was just wondering who people tend to buy parts off for building exhausts up? I know a few people have built thier own systems and bought a lot of components when doing this, and just wondered if there were any particularly good suppliers, or any to avoid. I'll probably be after things such as exhaust wrap, flexi joints, stright pipe etc. Thanks. Tom