Toad

With the inspection plate removed, you could use a bit of wire to get hold of the bush and poke it up to the starter motor hole so your assistant could grab it. I'd use an old coat hanger with a u shap bent into the end to grab the bush with. Can your sister come round and do some washing for me?

No worries, sorry they're a bit blurry... I'll try to get some from the bracket fitted to my scrap shellso you can see the fitting better.

here's some pics

The rear of the hump? There's a plastic clip on the floor which grips a bar on the base of the hump iirc I'll look at mine tomorrow and wack pictures up as necessary. I added you on messenger too.

I'll try to get some pics of mine tomorrow if it helps?

just got my laptop back and running again, so can VagCom him. Let me know if you want a hand...

I can cut a bracket out of my breaker if you want.

Take the headlight out and you can reach through the hole. I'd go and check the colour as they change depending on age, or replace both?

Yu can buy Mocal oil cooler kits from most specialists such as G werks and Stealth, i would leave the original water-oil cooler in place and plumbed in to help with oil cooling in traffic and with getting the car up to temperature, and fit a thermostatically controlled oil cooler plate in addition. Have you fitted bigger disks/callipers to the car? you can fit g60 units which are larger and help with braking, redstuff pads should be available for them. Have you fitted a rear strut brace? apparently these help more than the front ones, although as a package (front + rear) they're supposed to really help. Not sure where to buy them though.

the rear edge is also attached with underseal, which essentially glues them on...

Nah, they look amost identical when they're out, except the newer ones aren't missing blades.... ;) There was a lot of talk on here about metal vs plastic blades, as the new vw ones (and originals) have plastic, and they do snap off over time, but, for £35 and an hour to change them in place, i'm happy to swap it after 50k miles. apparently some of the metal bladed pattern parts have less than top quality tollerances and bearings, plus if your VW unit dies within a year, they'll cover labour plus the new pump...

I bought late G60 pipes for my early valver with 288s and they're a bit long. the later cars had a different bracket for the solid brake line which fits much better, not sure what yours would have. Not convinced the 16v pipes fit though. I'd buy the pipes for the equivalent age g60 if i were to repeat the process...

It's £35 for a new pump from vw, therefore I'd suggest putting a new one in. :)

Too right Pete. Very interesting, it just makes it all the more worth it when you put it all together and you know it is done as you throught it should be. Crack pipe is the Gruvenparts one in the group buy. I think you can get it from their local agent here now, Volksbits or something, i think they're called.. Strictly Dubs do them here, but it's cheaper to buy direct from the US TBH. http://www.gruvenparts.com or something... Glad to see it's coming back together now Hasan.

To be perfectly honest to your last post, the reason the roads are so poor is that we simply do not get enough money to maintain them. The average road should have a lifetime of 21 years before it is surface dressed, whcih gives it a further 7 years lifetime, this should be done 3 times in total, before the road needs digging up and replacing. On average UK roads get surface dressed every 100 years... Trunk roads and the A road network are prioritised for defect repairs over the other classified and unclassified infrastructure. One of the fastest rising costs for Highways departments is claims for damage to vehicles, don't get me wrong, I think you should be entitled to some compensation for damage caused by someone else, but I've already seen a claim for over £100,000 for "damages" to someones car and the resulting hire charges etc. I can only imagine that this kind of thing will increase. Along with a deteriorating network, and customers expecting higher levels of service than ever, highways authorities are expected to make year on year savings. The maths just doesn't add up. I think reporting faults is a great idea, but try to find a webpage that allows you to do it, rather than wasting your time harrassing a call centre rodent.

Sounds like a good plan. I've got to investigate my wishbones and see if shot blasting them and respraying before fitting r32 bushes is going to be better than buying new wishbones.

You can try to claim from your council, the standard defence is that if they didn't know that the pothole was there, they couldn't fix it, therefore it's not their fault. If you're lucky it will have been reported before, or the road was inspected. Expect to wait up to 6 months for the money, even if you are succesful. Take plenty of pictures for evidence.

I'd check the gearbox mount. if you can move the engine at all by hand, it would indicate that that mount is knackered. £14 for a deisel Mk2 unit from GSF, hour to fit if you're slow... 1/2 hour if everything is good.

Well, the standard ones seem pretty good, but I still made 144bhp on the old tired 4s. See after this RR day if there's any difference maybe...

What'd the sciences of that then Mr Waldron? This is a guess, but perhaps 16v plugs are slightly hotter so running them in a boosted engine is recommended over the std n/a vr6 plugs? :shrug: I think the VR plugs are 5s and the valvers 6s, without going to look through my parts collection in my boot. They also nice and cheap from the German and the Swede. It's not all valver plugs just the super yttrium ones that are supposed to be good for the VR. Apparently the VR doesn't like randm multi electrode plugs, it seems happiest with the BKE5U twin electrode plugs or whatever they are. Mind you the quad electrode ones are supposed to be cack, yet my valver loved them, for 30k miles... :)

The 16v plugs are reccomended for super or turbo charged VRs...

yes it is. :)

Yes, that missing will maje a huge difference. search for pcv valve and look throught the engine bay section it's been covered loads, you can buy it from ford. I'd block the holes for now as you'l be sucking in a lot of unfiltered air otherwise...

I'd swap them anyway, they made a big difference to my starting on warm days. There's some merc ones you can buy and just fit your end caps which work out cheaper.

Can't you just put a new pulley on it?? Break out the gas....