Toad

Yeah, do a search on here. many people have had issues with it. I pull and stick levers in from behind. I now want to make a joke about a reacharound....

Mine has the same wires as yours. but he light never comes on. Lol...

You need an assistant to make things easier. try to lower the window or get it lined up with the holes in the top of the door and undo the 2 bolts that hold the glas to the lifter bit, then lower the glass and pull the arms out of the plastic inserts. Drill all the rivets (including one that holds the connector to the door skin) out and whilst getting your assistant to wiggle the window up and down and damaging your knuckles you can twist the mech so that the top goes forward and down and the bottom goes back and up a bit, then fiddle till the old mech comes out of the door. It's a right bugger to do, and even more tricky to put back in.

Find the other thread and check things, but it could be bearings going in the engine, or an oil leak in the charger too.

Just above zero is faaaaar too low! Think you've got some issues with it :( Edit the Bently says minimum 2 bar at 2000rpm at 80 degrees, and there's another thread on here about G60 oil pressures with some other useful info in. Dub_Nut_G60 started it I believe.

77.7 seems to be the default temperature if the sender is playing up. The KM/H error could be a broken wire somewhere, seems bloody strange though. Tom

Apparently so, in both plastic and leather varieties too. Think leather is less than £40 but not sure exactly how much.

I had a bit of this action. Took the leads off and cleaned them and gave them a coat of WD 40 and they were a great deal happier. I made sure I cleaned inside the cap as well so they made good contact with the plugs.

Pull a bit of the old seal off to get an idea of the cross sectional shape. I put a new seal on my moon roof, and the dealer supplied unit was a bit too long, I guess if the seal is the right shape and the size roughly the same, you should be alright. A rubber mallet and lots of soapy water will help fitting the new seal. Chances are that it'll be a differently shaped seal though.

The wheels look mint too...

I'd give the two clips a bloody good clean and regrease, and make sure the new bonnet safety catch engages properly. Also drop the bonnet from a slight hieght to make sure it closes properly. Gently prodding it closed won't always get it latched correctly. Today I have been fitting new rear topmounts, plates, bumpstops and rear disks. Threw a bit of paint on the shocks where the old plastic cap things had rubbed on them and threw the old plastic caps away. Tomorrow I'll be mostly replacing ARB droplinks and bushes removing my headlamp loom and checking all the lights for the MOT on Monday.

What do you mean? Yours? it's wearing speedlines though....

Out of interest, would your car genuinely not manage 600 miles? I'd not put up with anything that was that bad. Mine do 250-300 miles week in, week out barely missing a beat, and I fully intend to drive to Scotland for a wedding in the Spring, with hopefully, 2 passengers, and I've no qualms that the 16v will manage that. Admittedly the VR6 shat itself this week, but I've been expecting it for a long time, and I probably shouldn't have pushed it for so long. No matter. I'll just start collecting parts a little sooner than I hoped.

Cool. Glad the makeshift relaease is still holding up. Been thinking about a permanant fix to the wanky metal clip, might fiddle with a spare lever I've got knocking around. I normally order parts midweek, then I can pootle in Friday evening or Saturday morning. Sadly they surprised me with a bill for £77 last night. was only expecting £50 or so. Makes £200 I've spent on rubber bits and brake disks with them in the last few weeks... :(

Did it read 77.7 by any chance? or did it move up and down? how about from dead cold? The vehicle speed should work as the later full versions of VAG COM will do 0-60 and Quater mile times from these values. Think mine works as I've plotted speed against engine revs and all sorts of geeky stuff. The engine speed sensor error should show when the car is not running. VAG COM expects a signal and throws an uppity when it doesn't see one. Which lambda fault did you get? has it reoccured? This could be the issue with your stalling. Do a bit of a search on here as I'm sure other people hav mentioned tests for the lambda. The ISV sounds about right, and so does the advance. From cold it normally tops out about 20ish degrees. Dunno what the EGR value is, maybe lambda temp or something, but mine sits on 217 and moves to 185 or something occasionally I think. Any more errors? I'd try cleaning the ISV as it might not be reacting quickly enough to the revs dropping at junctions.

Indeed. Meant to send you a message to see how it's going now? Fuel economy a bit better? Did you get the bonnet cable sorted?

They're all slightly different car to car. What is your coolant temperature saying? Should be close to the temp gauge. If it's not reading properly the car won't be leaving the cold start map, your lambda values won't get a chance to self learn and your economy will be poor. It probably isn't that, but it sounds familiar to something I saw the other day.

Wonder if he's got any locking wheel nuts he doesn't want??

I think that the larger of the bushes is replaceable with the R32 item, it's the one the bolt goes through vertically.

I'd give it a bit of a crack. You'll be able to learn a lot, but.......... You'll need a fair bit of specialist equipment, you'll need to get an external company to do some of the specialist work, such as honing the bores(technically possible at home) crack testing the head and reseating the valves. You'll be able to strip it right down and rebuild it all though. Bit of an expensive jigsaw, and it won't take *that* long to do. you'll probably spend most time cleaning and painting components. I'd stick with standard internal components as they can be reused and having the block bored out and using bigger pistons will cost a lot more money, and might not be worth it unless you're specifically looking for an engine for forced induction, or a free-er reving race spec unit like Corozin's

Details??? What're you doing with the old ones too?? Think I've decided to go for anthracite speedllines on my VR too...

Meant to reply earlier. Cheers for the idea Mr Wort, Did this and the weight just clears the pipe. Could do with being a little narrower still, but it's a good start. Shift is better. I can't feel the transition in the gearbox like I used to, and I think it might result in a quicker shift, TBH I've only just started the car for the first time since adding the shifter and I need to bleed the clutch slave a little more as the biting point is almost on the floor. Encouraging start though, will book an MOT in for a fortnights time, and keep my fingers crossed.

By my working... 2 Gallons = 9l ish Strut brace = 1m in legnth so you need a surface area of 90cm^2 Root(90/pi) = 5.35ish, so a 10 cm diameter pipe would be required. How much 4 inch pipe did you say you had??? lol....

Cool! Edit: I just had a plan... Might not be the most practical idea, or work :lol: but... Are you running with a rear strut brace? Could you use that as the water tank, like Big Ron thingumywhatsit had on his mk1 vr at E38 this year??

That's a good plan, wonder if you could solder some fins to them in a radiator core stylee? Only problem could be if you're sat stationary on a hot motorway in traffic in the middle of the summer, they could absorb heat as well as they dissipate it. Spose silver paint would help slightly... As for the tank, could you not built a model out of cardboard to get the shape and knock up a metal one yourself? You seem pretty good with your hands if you're building the inlet mani. Maybe even make it out of the 4" tube?