Toad

This week, the multi talented mr beige has been fiddling with my 16v throttle body, resulting in this.... Cheers dude! Otherwise not much has occured, apart from boring maintainence and the 16v sitting on the drive....

"haway man, I think a little bit of sex wee came out...."

Aye sounds like a plan, ill be in touch over the next few days to sort that out, we need to get to Martins, how does Sunday grab you?? Yeah, that works for me. I'm at Romsey show on saturday selling animal houses.... You still want the steering wheel?

They can alter the rear axle by loosening the mounting bolts, but as Yan says, the toe in isn't adjustable.

Do you want to throw it up on some ramps to have a proper poke around? We'll talk about it when you pop up I guess. Also if you want to get all the servicing clobber, it shouldn't take us half hour or so... GSF Beru leads are good, and the Bosch Yyttrium plugs are spot on too.

Can't remember off the top of my head, but I'll look tonight and let you know.

Loosen the bolts where the hinges bolt to the wings and move the hinge point, the hinge is on slotted holes. It'll take some playing with though as movements that seem like they will raise the bonnet will lower it, and vice versa.

They have taken the p!ss a bit there mate. Go back and get them to check everything again, tracking, camber, castor. My valver and vr have been done at micheldever (lol) and do pull to the left a bit, but the tyre wear is even, and they drive well. A lot of it is the camber of the roads I believe. Think Micheldever charge about £30/test. It's just outside winchester, so pretty easy for me to pop in there. VW should have the full 4wheel alignment setup and shouldn't charge you that much. Suspension does take time to bed in and all the mounts settle. Think Herisites had his reset 3 times before they got it right. If I have tyres put on or alter the suspension, I'll try to do about 10 miles or so to get everything to settle before getting the tracking done.

The throttle body is the smallest part of the inlet system, and causes the biggest obstruction, the idea behind porting and polishing it is that airflow through the body is maximised, so that at full throttle the maximum air can flow through it, and during throttle openings the air flow can change speed quicker, improving throttle response. The maximum airflow is governed by the size of the chokes ultimately, but smoothing the path to these and after these will be of benefit. I've just picked up a throttlebody from mr beige which he has been ported and polished for my 16v, although no other work has been done, I would like to thing that it will make a difference. I'm spending my evenings with a tin of brasso trying to achieve a mirror finish at the moment.

ooooh on a related note... have you got vag com? Can you let me know your ecu part number, mine is a similar vintage, but seems to have a golf ecu, but so is another late vr I know of. I wonder if they put golf ecus on the last few vrs. That pic is of an early bumper. Maybe you could get the grill to fit yours? Otherwise just Cutting that section right out would probably do the trick :)

Early cars had a pipe that took air to the brakes to cool them that was fed from that part of the bumper. would be worth looking at them I believe. Here's a poor pic of the duct and an early lower grill. Alternatively how about putting it in the cetre of the bottom of the bumper?

Lol... The more I think about it, the more I love the car. It's a good solid fairly aesthetically standard corrado, looks nice and subtle, but would destroy all competition. That's the way I like it. Definitely something for a lot of people to aspire to, including me.

Hello mate, cheers for the ride on Saturday. I said this a few times over the weekend, but I couldn't believe the power, it was incredible the way it kept going. Don't mind admitting, I was a bit scared by it! I looked through this thread a few times and saw the power figures, but never imagined just what it would be like. Good work fella :thumbleft: Quite looking forward to seeing what you get up to with her next.

Just recieved my shiney new gearknob from Riley. Didn't expect to see it by now, but as usual I recieved a very good quick service. Really appreciate it mate, hope things are going ok. Tom

I would assume that the black bit is underseal put on there because it had been rusty. Possibly.

To get the flywheel bolts out it would be good to have soe compression, but, I'd put a couple of the hex bolts int he bottom crank pulley and put a bar through them, then undo the bolts. they shouldn't be stupidly tight... The bearing doesn't look too special! whink thats a rather bad sign along with the random chunk!

I've noticed slightly wobbly pins. Think warped disks speed up the wearing process. I couldn't buy new carriers so I refitted them. Can't see them snapping , and the caliper can't actually go very far, so I'll leave them for the time being.

Lol... TBH if it's the matrix the leak should be in the car. But it could be one of the pipes going to it. Would love to remove your dash, but I'll be in a field, drunk.

That rattle might well be your arb bushes being shot. or at least thats what I blame mine on. Pretty cheap and easy fix I believe.

:( Shame I'm not there to play any more mate.... Could do without that really. Good luck.

That was your ISV silencer. Guess you had a heavy backfire which modified it from being the silencer to having been your silencer. Think you need a new one, or some glue. Sorry I'm not more help.

To remove the inner pulley. take a block of wood, place against the pulley and hit with a hammer. Eventually it'll pop off.

Yep, and if you're lucky, it starts to turn the bolt too....

Take 1 hammer and apply liberally to the head of the bolt, you might need to use an allen key socket to knock back into the hole as it can deform slightly. If that doesn't work, hit it again. :)

Cool! Cheers for the info. Would love to know how to knock a box like that up, it's one thing having a vague idea of what the issue is, but being able to custom build an adapter like that astounds me. Will the display show in the car? Could you use it for real-time sensor feedback too? I've been quite impressed with the data you can aquire from VAG COM when logging the sensors, admitedly the sample rate is pretty low, but it gives me an idea of how it's all working. Was amazed to see over 30 degrees of advance. Still can't decide how the ecu works out the engine load... Perhaps its throttle position vs rpm vs rate of change of rpm?