Toad

Just taken delivery of a few shiney things for the vr... Got a water pump, new aux belt gruven parts tensioner pulley, crack pipe and rad neck ready to go on...

Speedlines? The ones I have are for the sebrings, and are the oe vw ones. I'm popping back tonight for something, so I'll round them up and let you know. Tom

Just the bottom end, the head and gearbox bolt straight up to it, and most of the ancilliaries will go straight on too. You'll need the fueling adjusting afterward, but Vince at stealth is supposed to be very good at getting good results from these setups.

My plan is to get a good enough job to let me save for a shrick, cams, bmc, abf turbo, 2x sets of wishbones, bushes, shocks, springs, balljoints etc...

How many do you want? I have most of a set for a 16v at home.

That's some useful information John. I had always thought that there needed to be signs and the van/camera needed to be marked, otherwise they were no sort of deterrent, that's what gets on my wick when the vans sit on motorway bridges. What was the deal with the motorists in the roadworks on the A303 was the speed limit not signposted, or was it the cameras that were at fault?

Cheers, been trying to look after myself recently. Sounds like you had fun. A track day is a definite plan for me at some point. Tom

Glad you've finally made some contact anyway. I'll give you a call tonight to see what's happening, oh abd by the way... Congrats to both of you :) Can I be a bridesmaid???

Good point well put Gav! Exactly. I think that's what makes the place interesting. There's always something or someone to capture your imagination. Calling me a ********* seems to work, lol....

Sorry Toad, don't agree, mine hasn't "he says frantically looking around for a piece of wood to touch" :lol: I have always been willing to pay more for the right car but never to a trader I have to admit. I've always trusted my judgement and luckily or not have never ended up with a lemon. Good examples are getting scarce and I'd certainly pay the right money for the right car. I'd suggest an independant inspection on this one and if it's pukka it's worth the money IHMO. Fair enough Bill. I'd look at this as an opportunity to buy a £3000 vr (which should be pretty good), and spend £3500 on it getting it how you want rather than buying a £6500 car and not being able to afford to do anything to it. But... as you say Bill, if it really is minty, there aren't many cars that good around. Tom

Depends which side of the radiator you want to fit it... Use a hammer and a punch to hit the head of the allen bolt quite hard a few times, this should help to loosen it and the allen key will fit more snugly

Usually the belt and tensioner are changed at the same time, as the engine is in bits, if you don't want to change them as they are fairly new, then that's fair enough. Technically reseating valves should help performance, but you couldn't estimate how much by. there are too many variables.

I think I'd leave it for £6.5k. All the bushes and hoses and cack that breaks on other corrados will still go on this, as they'll still be 12 or so years old. There's plenty of good solid cars around for decent prices at the moment, H8RRA has been trying to selly one recently for example.

I saw them open the big day out festival in Sydeny a couple of years back, always makes me smile, 35 degrees, middle of the day, and thye are giving it some serious beans up on stage. Awesome.

At the risk of sounding a bit 2 fast 2 furious, a configurable display that you could see via a video head unit thing would be nice. and would be hidable....

Have a look in your boot, it'll be on the label on the left hand side on the rear panel.

Looks good, what paint code is that??

I average 30mpg long term.

My valver used to spin easily, turned out to be the tracking and shoddy tyres. Correct tracking and good tyres (rainsports) and it's all but impossible to spin the wheels on the valver (144bhp and 136lbft) and nearly as good on the vr (something and something else) Can really throw the vr into roundabouts in the wet actually, as I scared my sister doing tonight.

Lol I was thinking that!

Good to see you are progressing dude. Will be nice to have the engine all painted up shiney!

If you're taking the head off, then you'd just as well get it rebuilt with the valves ground in and new guides. Get it skimmed at the same time, might not be totally necessary, but it's peace of mind, also fit new tappets and timing chain. Getting it compression tested may point to the fault or indicate knackered rings. 16v and G60 blocks pistons and rings are pretty good, and you'll probably find that they are fine. although if you want new rings, you'd just as well get a complete bottom end rebuild and oil pump. I'd not bother with the bottom end unless the bores are worn. The head work should cost around £300, and almost £100 for the tappets (GSF oem INA ones). Autodata put the head gasket job at 5 hours I think, but allow a complete day at least, so probably £250 labour. Chuck a few quid on the total for timing belt and tensioner pulley.

Why don't you jsut set the working coily to the medium setting the other one goes to? Easy way out I reckon.... ROFL @ Double6s!!

To fit the late type top mounts, you need a set of late top plates I'm afraid. Tom

I never understood these parts of drivetrain for stability management. All Corrados comes with factory front and rear ARBs, right? How is that aftermarket ARBs are so much better than stock OEM ones? I mean, they are not rocket science in designing, its practicaly one twisted piece of metal bar. Is there really such a difference in performance? Also, what other "bars" are for: tie bar, sway bar, swing bar, strut bar, brace bar..? is there any other "bars" im missing ? :D Please exuse my noobness... :oops: The anti roll bars link either side of the suspension, and are made of spring steel. The principal behind them is that when the car leans when cornering the suspension is compressed on one side. The anti roll bar tries to level both sides of the suspension out, or in other terms make the body of the car flatter when cornering. By adjusting the thickness of the bars you increase the leveling effect. Fitting a thicker front anti roll bar will increase understeer, fitting a thicker rear anti roll bar will decrease understeer, but make the rear of the car more likely to slide when cornering hard. Wikipedia linky here Hope this helps Tom