Toad

if you pull the carpet up in the boot, or tip the back seats forward (can't remember exactly which one), there is a circular plate that you can lift up, under there you can gain access to the fuel tank, the pump should be sat inside attached to the fuel pipes

How about some wheels from a scrap yard? they don't even need to be legal tyres, although if it's a shared facility they'd be better looking a bit reasonable.

Try http://www.volksdevil.com Riley has got a couple of offers on now and again too, such as this thread.

Bloody hell, what a gimp!!!

How long will it be in storage? Might be worth sitting it on blocks so that the tyres don't perish so badly, or putting some old crap tyres on. Probably could leave the battery connected, if you will start it regularly. If you do, unplug the stereo, as that drains the battery too.

I'd take it for an extended drive to the MOT station, to 1 blow the cobwebs out, and 2 to get any rust off the brakes. How's the handbrake? Are the any of the calipers binding? Just check all the obvious stuff, all the lights work, horn, all the fluid levels are ok (including screenwash).

I hadn't thought about that extra load... Was only planning on using 2 relays. I've got a spare set of headlamp plugs I was going to wire in to keep it as neat as possible. I suppose if I ran a legnth of 30 Amp rated cable across to the drivers side that ought to be man enough to power the drivers side lights.... Best order 2 more relays then. My plan is to have the original plugs waterproofed and tucked out the way so if something went very wrong, I could just plug them back in.

Aha!! Thanks for clearing that up... So if the Dim-Dip resistor is removed, then on the sidelight setting only the small sidelight bulb will light? I will need to connect this wire into my new loom then, I guess it can be a fairly small cable. I'm planning on making up a new loom that will replace all three four wires accross the front of the car including new earths (from the lights to the chassis and the battery, slight overkill, but it should work well)

The colours are.... Yellow = dip beam White = Main beam Grey/red = sidelight Brown = earth I'm assuming that 'sidelight' is the dim dip.

But I thought the dim dip had it's own seperate connection to the lamps. Does the resistor connect into the dip beam loom between the headlamp connector and the light switch then?

Definateley take the wheel off and check the inside of it... I had flat spots on both my front and rear wheels after potholing this year.

I've been thinking about this recently. Why do the dim dip lights come on? Surely they're connected through a seperate part of the loom that runs through the resistor and to the lights? I've seen everyone advised to disconnect the resistor, but I don't understand why??

you said you tired heating it up, but did you try pouring water out of a kette onto it? that'd probably help. or at least clean a bit of your wheel up...

Sounds like it is the ISV. Have you tried wacking it with something blunt? Does it buzz or vibrate when the ignition is on? Try touching it, with the ignition on, if it doesn't then it's wonky. Where are you BTW, you might be near another forum member who could help you out...

sorry dudes, tried the search option and it brought up about eleventy million pages-worth. Kinda needle in a haystack! Eleventy Million, :lol: Tubbs, get the crossbow, they won't get far!! :lol: Try using the word AND in your search, (its got to be in capitals, i'm not being an arse) oil AND VR6 AND waterproofed AND otters, for example if you wanted to find a thread that contained the words, oil, VR6, waterproofed and otters. threads -only- containing oil, VR6 and waterproofed wouldn't show. Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, the search isn't the most intuitive thing at times.

Would the best route be (long term) Shampoo Claybar ScratchX Shampoo Claybar ScratchX (Repeat until Scratches removed) Shampoo Claybar Stage 1 Stage 2 Shampoo Claybar Stage 1 Stage 2 Repeat a few times Then Shampoo, Claybar Stage 1 Stage 2 Gold class wax Shampoo Wax repeat. Or is there too much claybar action going on?

I didn't look too hard at it, but it didn't seem obviously rusty. If you know anyone who's interested I'll saunter down and get the phone number off it, and have a bit better look at it.

On the topic of building a Rocco 16v. I've just noticed a pretty smart looking Mk1 1.6 Rocco for £800. Dunno how good a price that is, but I just thought I'd mention it, just in case...

Cheers mate, appreciate the help. Can anyone confirm this please, as I don't fancy getting it wrong and permanantly immobilising my car.

Sorry, meant to say, it probably can't be cleaned.

The MAF (as far as I know, I don't have one) is essentially a coaxail type wire that runs accross the airflow, the outside of the wire is heated, and the inside has it's resistance measured, in order to measure the temperature. Basically as the air flows over the wire, it is cooled. The more air, the colder it becomes. hence giving a reading for the mass of the air flowing through. The wire degrades and corrodes over time. In fact I have heard that the company (South east asian, can't remember where exactly) went under because of the huge number of warranty recalls, and Bosch have had to buy the factory as there is no other facility for producing these.

Well done mate, glad you got it sorted. See you Sunday?

I'll do that. My tracking is also a bit wayward, which could also do with sorting I suppose.

Well put, I couldn't remember how the tune went! :lol: :lol:

Wessex Radiators Portsmouth Rd, Bursledon, Southampton, Hampshire SO31 8EP Tel: 023 8040 2848 Try these guys Mistrall. Top blokes to deal with. You might need the dimensions of the rad when you speak to them. Supercharged :)