Toad

:lol:

That's a better idea! go out and buy a shonkey old banger to run through the winter, so you can save some money, and you'll appreciate the VR even more when you get it out again!!

Get the Mrs to run in front of it with a brolley!!! It'll be alright! When you're blasting along a nice twisty road on a summers evening with the tunes up, and the windows down, you'll wonder why you every thought about selling it! Seriously, if I wasn't losing my job next week, I'd be after it in a second.

Good luck!

Ok, Oil --- might be serious. It's a 12 year old car, sadly. Water leak --- might need more investigation, as will the random noise headlamp loom --- new relay. Wipers can be sorted easily, only drive in the dry :wink:

Can't have another regular sell up!!!!!! We all go through moments like this.... You'll fall back in love with it soon (hopefully) As for the broken bits Drivers door handle not working --- Common failure, someone sells the repair kits on here Ciggy lighter not working --- Do you really need it at the moment? probably only a wire or fuse gone. Heater control lights not working --- Do you really need these to drive the car? as above. Heater blower only working on 4 --- Think it's a resistor, don't think it's too bad a fault. Clock adjustment not working --- You've got a watch haven't you? Door pin rod snapped --- Do this when you repair the handle Headlight lens has a small crack --- Wack some silicone in it for the time being worry about it when the MOT is up. Don't get me wrong..... i'm not trying to be flippant, I've been there (well, still am there). But when you step back, you've got a cracking example. It looks spectacular, you've clearly worked hard on that aspect and it goes well (esp with the OBD2). I'f my Corrado was as good as yours and had as few problems, I'd be moist with excitement!!! DON'T sell! or if you do, can you send her my way? I'll do you a 16V on the road and a 16v for spares? Edit.... I see Rodders beat me to it. Listen to him!

If it's stuck open with the slave cylinder out then it's something inside the bell housing. Did you say the clutch had recently been done? Think you've got to whip the pressure plate off and look at it closely. There's something sticking for some reason.

release bearing knackered? Shaft skanky and sticking? release fork fooked? Master or slave cylinder needs replacing. Broken clutch springs. Can only be a couple of things really.

Didn't Phil K do this the other day? In this pic...

1.8 KR, apparently, there's another thread in the wanted section from this guy.

yeah, it's off one of the three wires that goes into the distributor.

Probably the distributor, wiring, or hall sender inside it, if the rev counter is dying too. Or could be a general electrical fault. Might be worth checking the battery connections and the earths.

how does the VR6 thermostat fit, is it at an angle or is it vertically? if so, is the little hole at the top?

I don't know if there is an easy test.. I suppose borrow one that you know is fine and see what happens. The middle section of mine came away from the rest of it, so I had a pretty good idea about mine :wink: But the rubber O ring will fail as well as the cap not holding the correct pressure.

It's a shame it's ended up like this..... Must say I've enjoyed following your progress with this, and I'd like to say well done on the work you did carry out!

The Power gasket plus, sounds like a phenolic spacer. They reduce heat transfer from the head to the inlet manifold. I think they're used by some of the forced induction guys.... Dunno if they're that worthwhile....

No worries. My description is a bit vague, but my main experience with shot peening was with a mates thesis, and I don't really remember it properly.

there's a thread somewhere about it..... Edit: thaaar she blows

They're techniques to alter the physical properties of the materials that the parts are made out of. Shot Peening is esentially like shot blasting, but it uses small steel balls fired very fast. I *think* it increases the hardness of the surface, a bit like case hardening. For gearboxes, you want a hard surface, and a tough 'inside' So that the gears don't wear but can absorb shock loading. Stress relief is typically achieved through heat treatments. Steel 'work hardens' as it is deformed, it gets harder due to the carbon deposits in the microstructure. Stress relieving heat treatments remove these stresses....

Expansion tank cap?

TBH, you should have at least gone and kicked him really hard to check that he was still alive.

In the mk2 Golf Haynes manual there is a method of doing it. I think you want to keep the equaliser plate level, and have the handbrake levers on the calipers about 1mm off the stop when the handbrake is 'off'. It's best adjusted with a chum who can look at the calipers whilst you fiddle. Mine is all wonkey as it only had one handbrake cable replaced a few years ago. Think I might change both in the near future.

I know it's only an old muddy 16v, but calling it a tractor is a bit harsh... :( Haha! Gotta get my alignment done before the RR day, got a bit of racing slick action going on the inside of one of my wheels.

the sensor is bolted down with one of the rocker cover bolts

Could be the worng plastic tube extension on the dipstick tube?