Toad

Well it could be argued that all it would cost you is the time to do the job again. But AFAIC, that cost is too high compared to new bolts. My mate reused his, and it was fine... I'd go for new though

That's about what I was quoted.... I got pattern parts from the company who refurbed my head for about £100, maybe less. I considered that if they (the engineering firm) thought they were good enough, then they were. The bolts **can** be reused, if you just run them up to 60Nm, and then re tighten in 1000 miles or so. but it's not the reccomended method. And when I say can, I mean it is physically possible, but I almost certainly wouldn't do it myself. too much hassle in the long run...

Can't you just take an allowance from the company, and sink it into a car you buy?

Just a couple of legnths of board and some bits of railway sleeper would be enough, it'd only be a couple of feet long if you made it fairly steep, or jack it up and sit it back down on the blocks. I'ts far safer than jacks. I blocked my passenger side up under the body, now I'm thinking about it. Just unbolt the shafts to start with, when you drop the ball joint you'll be able to swing the driveshaft right out the way. The drivers side, you'll just need a mate to line back up when you shove the box back in. Eerrr can't remember exactly but I think you've got to remove the rear mount bracket to get enough space.

That is a fair bit more expensive.... You'd struggle to justify that in a standard car, wouldn't you... The older models need a bit of a combination of tractor and lorry driving experience to drive, and common sense, of course. Great machine though...

How much are the resetable circuit breakers? O/T But do you have much to do with Unimogs? Great weapons IMO! Have drivenn a U1800 briefly, and a mate has a couple of U900's

What engine is it? You need jacks ideally, one under the sump, and one under the gearbox, and a couple of friends.... I had a 16v and this Is how i'd do it again. When I did mine I ran the front of the car up on some ramps (i used sleepers) so that the gearbox will slide out under the front of the car. Take the starter out, the gear change cables and the mounting bracket (marking where they came from), undo the two driveshafts, remove the pasenger side bottom ball joint so that the drivehaft can be fully removed, the drivers side can sit there for the time being. There is a thin metal gaurd on the bottom of the gearbox covering the flywheel, remove that, along with the one on the back of the engine/box that is hidden (it gets bent otherwise.) remove the hydraulic pipe to the clutch. Remove the rear gearbox mount(passenger side), as far as I remember, you'll need to jack the gearbox end up to be able to get it out. put a jack under the sump to keep the engine in place. remove the front engine/gearbox mount. Remove the 3 or 4 big bolts between gearbox and engine. then lower the gearbox end and pull it away from the engine, the d/side driveshaft will drop away now. It is *very* tight, and awkward to get out. it might be easier to get a big friend to lie under the car and help slide the box out. when you get the driveshaft out of the clutch you should be able to drop it down. It's a B*stard, but doable.... Hope that helps

Don't they drive on the right in Switzerland anyway. Or have I been smoking too much crack again???

Are you sure it's even going to turn out to be a corrado??? :D I'd be very wary of it unless you get a proper story out of him.... Unless it's advertised for £5 or something.

To be honest, a second hand one *could* pack up again pretty soon. Your original one has lasted 13 years.... I'd try a new one, or putting a new hall sender in it. Search for hall AND sender for more information remember to put the AND in (in capitals too)

Probably the hall sender inside the dizzy. It can be replaced, or you can buy a new dizzy. Where are you? someone might be able to lend you one so you can test that it is the problem.

Cool, cheers!

Just wanted to say thanks!! All the stuff I orderd turned up today. Hoping that the weekend is good so that I can get out and give the old girl a bath.... just wondering :oops: With the wash mitt, what's the difference between the sides? I can clearly see that one is furry and one isn't, but which side do you use for what? Cheers!

What would be the best plan, run a relay to it off the first stage fan wire, or run it directly along with the radiator fan?

Good work fella!! He's probably very lucky that it was only his shop that got rammed.

Have you tried eating lots of cakes and 'growing' into it? :D

I had to drill out and re-tap the screw on mine, very frustrating, but it's an easier job to do the brakes now... An I agree with the lack of copper grease as the cause of your squealing, and possibly the anti squak spring clip things missing/not fitted right.

Why not try acquiring some tarmac and building a little ramp, so it's not such a sudden bump? you wouldn't be able to go out from the kerm very far, but it'd be slightly more gentle than your current arrangement? Car looks stunning, as ever. :thumbleft:

I'd probably guess at wheel bearing? Does it still appear at high speeds? Try jacking it up and spinning the wheel. Get hold of the wheel and see if the there is any movement by getting hold of it and really trying to pull it off the car, just to see if there is anything untoward... Also whip the wheel off and spin the disk, see if anything is rubbing from the brake side of things. Look at the CV joint/boot too, check they're servicable.

Bit O/T, but I like having a key, much prefer it to an electronic card and starter button, it gives you a physical link to starting the car, not some distant uninvolving button pressing exercise...

ooops, I was describing a 16v. But it would be roughly the same for a VR6, I don't know what happens with the timing chains though. No cam belt, or dizzy to worry about though.....

Timing belt off, dizzy off, camshafts out, then lift the tappets out. A strong magnet is quite helpfull for lifting them out. A test to find out if they're knackered or not, is trying to push the little nubbin inside inward. if you can't seem to move it easily, it's ok, if it is quite slack, it's rooted.

Yeah, that's another term for tappets.

With regard to the use of 'oil treatments'. The actual oil hole in the tappets is very small, and there isn't gonna be a huge amount of oil flowing in and out of the tappets, My reasoning is, that when it's full of oil, it's full. Although they really don't like skanky oil, they generally only sound bad when they're knackered and need replacing anyway. Once they're replaced, you won't have to worry for another 100,000 miles. It'll cost about 0.2 pence a mile in the long run.....