samg60

ok been a long time since I have been here, for some reason I decided to have a play with Alfa Romeo (wont do that again) and also sprog forced me to drive a passat for a while :-) however I am back and have just bought a nice golf mk 4 GT TDI (not quite the corrado 1.8T) but its nice to be back. Anyhow it has an issue, the remote central locking doesnt work, I have read the fault code as fault on CCM module, but if I go and get a second hand one off a mk4 are they all essentially the same or do I need a specific one from a GT TDI, secondly do I need vagcom to reprogram this ? any help most welcome. Cheers Sam

ok over the last a month a small issue has occured with my car about three times, when driving lazily around and the car holding boost at around 3000 to 3500 rpm the car has jerked as though it has hit the redline, and then everything is fine, I can boot the car with no loss of power and the problem will not reoccur again for maybe a week, but the car is not the daily drive so maybe only gets driven a few times a week. is this likely to be something as simple as the recirc valve or something more sinister like a sticking turbo. The car is running DTA and has no MAF or anything like that so am just a little unsure as to what the problem could be, however I havent even opened the bonnet on the thing over the last month so will investigate further tomorrow, but if anytone has any ideas they would be most welcome. Cheers Sam

m45 tends to be used on g40s, bit to small for the g60 engine , I think the m62 or m90 is what you are after although if I were you I would stick with the G if you want more power etc after that then look at turbos.

I can only comment that I had the same problem, the kit was not a bahn brenner unit but exactly the same spec, it was fine at low psi but as soon as I ran an 18psi unit things went wrong, I think they run far to hot and the expansion etc just causes them to sieze as the tolerances are far to low, i would suggest you go down the turbo route for good hp, worst £1500 i ever spent on a lysholm, although it was fast when it ran. so happy i own a turbo now.

Hi Paul, Im afraid I bought the car as is so havent got a clue whether the engine is standard or not but I have a feeling it is, its a BAM 225 engine running DTA management with a fully wrapped manifold and downpipe blue flame exhaust, and a huge intercooler which I have no idea what its out of but really does take the whole front of the car up. The car was converted by an audi engineer and originally mapped by dubsport however the conversion had a few issues and I bought it from a forum member redlee, it transpired that they had screwed up a bit with the wiring of the coilpacks and injectors which together with Vince was rectified.

not too sure, but have seen posting of people hitting 1.7 bar on their s3s (wouldnt recomment this if you want it to last), mine runs between 1.3 and 1.4 bar I have a boost gauge that is feeding off the inlet and I consistantly see about 22 - 23 psi flat out (its probably a few psi out although not that far), I know this is inlet pressure but it coems after the intercooler so am guessing its about correct, Vince mapped it at 297 bhp and didnt seem overly concerned I think he mentioned that it saw more on its first run but set it here for a reasonably healthly and safe Map, it was seeing 1.5 bar when I took it in. I think taking them much above what I have anyway and you will really be loosing any realy gains of the turbo as the air will be bloody hot.

I do question whether this is worth the cash, I could be wrong but surely when you need air to be cool i.e when your booting it the inlet is not going to transfer much heat to the air as the air will be moving pretty quickly, if you need ,ower inlet temps then I suggest a bigger intercooler or aquamist

No idea mate, it came with the car its not the biggest but water temps never run high, the engine conversion wasn't done by myself as I bought the car form a fellow forum member redlee, intercooler is huge though and fits the full width of the car bigger than a golf rallye one. can take some pics or get the part number if needed...

fair enough wasnt sure thats all, I guess if your replacing the rods anyhow it makes sense to get the head done and pistons, just that I had been reading a fair amount on the vortex forums and there seems to be mixed opions on using the pistons, as I think they are Mahle ones as standard. makes sense on the valves and to be honest as I am running a small port head at the mo, wont be that much hassle when I do get round to it to get an AGU and get some better valves in anyway.

Thought that was the case, giving in at last :-), its really not that bad you know..... its also not that expensive though, new rods new manifold new turbo new injectors and a remap, I think the BAM pistons are good for a fair bit beyond 350bhp are they not ? some thing I am not sure about though is when you get up to this power is it imperitive to get better valves or is it only really neccessary if your upping the rev limit ?

Why the sad face at 1.8T ?

As a matter of interest why the interest in 1.8T bays ?

seems a bit much but then the BAM engines do command a high price and the mileage is low

ok mate here are four shots of mine in it current state

yeah its very dependant on setup, but VRs are grunty engines anyway and I meant it simply as a comparison as its assumed by a lot of people that turbo cars are always laggy like some of the japanese cars with turbos. but they really dont have to be.. 8)

Lag whats that, I think this is a common misconception about turbos, I thought for years that turbos would be laggy and and the car have no power under 4000rpm, but you are not driving a japanese car that has no low down grunt and nothing happens until the high revs, if you do the turbo thing correctly you shoudl end up with pretty decent low down grunt much the same as the standard VR and then huge power above the 3000rpm range.

well 2nd is a combination of ridiculous torque steer and wheel spin, 3rd is pretty controlable but between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm it can still spin up, depends on the surface, good tarmac and its seems to be ok but any uneven surface and it will spin, doesnt bode well for when I finally get round to getting a BT, to be honest I really like the long ratios so dont really want a shorter fourth or fifth, its really nice plodding on th motorway between 2500rpm and 3000rpm with plenty of power available once past 80mph

Nah mate, never made it to Inters, car has been pretty much off the road for the last three months, I knew about the CTN box for a while now but have had so much do I havent had a chance to sort it, but came across this box on ebay and got it for a bargain price. But am now very glad I did. as for changing boxes I am now a dab hand at it, got mine on and off the other day with a mate in about 3 hours, all bolts back in etc ready to drive, it used to take me a full day, and thats without ramps, just two trolley jacks. :-) 2nd is pretty much useless unless you feather it carefully, it will still spin in third if your not careful...

Finally got round to sorting my car out, managed to get a CTN gearbox for my car £70 buzzing, as I wanted to rebuild the CCM one with new bearings and an LSD next year and had been running a crap passat 8v box (awful), anyhow got the box on and love the car again, however its now quite mental, all the longer ratios really compliment the 20v very well and as it comes on boost in fifth at about 90mph at around 3200rpm it takes off, and speeds well into three figures are effortless. does anyone knnow if LSD are available for these boxes. I was one up in my car against my mates new spec M3 the other day and pretty much destroyed it, some may have been driver ability, but it wasnt even close.

well apart from destroying gearboxes mine been very trouble free, I think its mainly luck with any car, mine is 300bhp and its the most reliable tuned vw I have ever had, my g60 was a right pain in the arse, I think virtually every engine component broke at some time or another and as for my old 16v and 8v they both had an array of problems, the 20v I have is good in that it doesnt have a maf etc to go worng but so far it been fantastic.

Well at the moment its got an awful 8v passat gearbox, (awful ratios) 100 in 5th at about 5000rpm :-( however in the process of rebuilding a CCM one to go on and also have the option on a g60 rebuilt box with vr 1st and 2nd and a lower final drive, with pelquin diff bolts, so that might go on then I can spend a lot of time sorting the CCM box and maybe afford a better diff, I killed the g60 one and the passat one has now started to whine, they really dont like the torque do they !! lots of plans at teh mo but not enough time and money...

Problem is Kev the loom thats being used is entirely home made so now it doesnt have a pullup resistor, but all seems good now, it took month to figure it all out but it really has been faultless for the last 6 months, apart from breaking gearboxes.

Hi Matey, yeah this was all sorted, we found a resistor in line with the injectors which was screwing things up, got it out an dthen Vince Mapped it again, its been sweet since..

drove an rx8 around thruxton 2 years back, didnt think much to i at all to be honest very rev happy but no real go, I remember thinking it wasnt a patch on my lysholmed golf. wouldnt recommend them at all

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HGE6qfBvvw