samg60

doesnt standard management leave you somewhat wanting when you want to push big power from these engines ?

regarding engine management, I'm running DTA and can't recommend vince highly enough, I only have the the EXP 48 but have none of the accociated running problems from cold. and I think there new S range of products offer many new features.

right then blinking heck, got the box back on the car and started it still with the car on axle stands with one of the front wheels off, and it started making horrid noise which seemed to be coming form gearbox, so after a few attempts just checking everything thought i should get the box off, I located a short ratio box similar to g60 one from a passat a and spent all day yesterday getting it off the passat and on to the C only to find that when I had finished that the noise was still there, turned out to be the drive shaft was catching or something when it was on axle stands, which means the box I built was probably fine (gutted) anyhow now I have the C back on the road I am going to take the time and rebuild the box again but this time swap one or two of the ratios between the CCM box and the g60 item. (just a bit annoyed with myself that I didnt check the car on the level before removing the box.) but you live and learn

hmm not sure whats going on here but all the rest of the interweb seems to indicate taht the BAM engines are definatley lower compression, so somthing is wrong somewhere. however just looked at a printout of Elsa and only the apx and amu seem to have a lower compression ratio also just read that the BAM negines and AMK have extra water pump to cool the turbo .. mine defo has this electric pump but dont know whether its on all 20v engines. also 20mm wristpins rather than 19mm which helps with the strength see here for some more info http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread ... 368&page=3

despite everyone saying that all 20v engines are the same, the BAM engines apparently have a stronger water jacket and better webbing, I cannot confirm this but it all makes sense if you were VW. havent had any problems with mine at 300lbft (rememeber its the torque that kills the rods) Bang for buck these are great engines but if you want to get big power 350hp and above then rods, etc need changing and also getting some better valves that can take higher Rpm is a good idea.

Hi Leon, to be honest mate I have done a lot worse, its pretty straight forward. (Thats assuming it still works when I put it back on, but I can select all gears and the diff feels right so hopefully all should be well, couple of issues were that fifth gear synchro was a bit knackered on the Vr box and I managed to damage the g60 one with the puller (stupid I know but there are sutble differences bewteen the boxes and I hadnt removed teh top washer on the g60 box so the puller wasnt pulling but rather snapping the gear :( ) so had to make the best of both, which turns out to be fine (i think :-)) but all in all it was pretty straight forward although the smell of gear oil can become a bit much after two days. Anyhow wish us luck when I get it back on

http://www.zelek.com/diagram%20&%20Char ... amlist.htm foubd the following and it might be worth a sticky and prehaps creating a specif page for it in case the site hosting this info decides to remove it, as lots of people seem to be needing this info, cant wait to get my box back on now I can hit 70 in 2nd

right then sorted box transfer complete just need to get it back on the car. getting the bugger off was more of a pain in the arse than opening them and transfering the gears over. (assuming it still works when I get it back on the car.) Couldnt work out how to do this by just changing the bellhousing so ended up following the bentley manual and doing it all properly. also had to sort out 5th gear syncro by combining parts from both boxes but seems to be fine. anyhow heres a pic mid progress

Thanks Leon, yeah saw that, but its a bit more than I want to spend at the mo. this one only cost me £155 so figure it will do for another 5000 miles until I can throw a better diff at it.

balls, bit of a nightmare, just found out that vr6 boxes dont bolt straight up to 1.8t, bellhousing is different, so looks like I will be swapping the internals over. Still I fancied finding out how to to do this, so looks like I am now forced to find out :shock:

yeah can't believe my luck, only bid on it as it was a reasonable price and now I don't have to look for a diesel box, infact the ratios are perfect, and for whats planned in the next 12 months shouldnt have a problem of hitting top end although cant say I ever want to.

cool found them. # 1st Gear 33:10 = 3.300 # 2nd Gear 35:18 = 1.944 # 3rd Gear 34:26 = 1.308 # 4th Gear 30:29 = 1.034 # 5th Gear 31:37 = 0.836 # Final Drive 61:18 = 3.389 Not bad really didnt know the VR had nice tall gears like this

juts bought a golf vr6 gearbox engine code AAA form fleabay, can anyone give me the ratios of this box, tried search couldnt find anything, not that bothereed if they are similar to the g60 or corrado vr box just need soemthing to get on it at the mo as the 300lb/ft is killing the diff in my current one.

you may have answered my question, as it could be the gearbox mount will check this later, how easy is it to check as the front is easy as hell to see when putting load on but the rear mount ? fornt is vibratechnic but gerabox is standard

yeah would go the 02M route if it was cheaper but want a cheapish solution for the moment as I am reluctant to drive the car at the moment with the whine, having had a diff bolt come loose on an 020 box and blow a hole through the casing, and seen my mates 02A Diff seize otherwise I would wait and save the cash. as the 02J boxes fit from a 20v no problem I just wondered what differences there were between these boxes and the ones on the 1.9TDI ? dont suppose anyone can point me towards a spreadsheet with flange and gear ratios for 02J boxes can they ? I had one for all 020 boxes but thats pretty useless now

yeah thats always been one of the reasons for picking diesel boxes, I think the Diffs are built stronger and currently I have 300 ftlbs going through the old g60 box and guess that may be the reason that the strain is starting to show, but with plans in mind to get nearer 400 ftlbs I need to make a good decision on the starting box , even if I do change to an LSD

yeah thinking about this box Leon as its very similar ratios to the 020 box I used to run on the g60 and I loved that. Also want to know what all my other options are as there appears to be many mk4 tdi boxes available and these appear to have done reasonably low mileage, I guess these mk4 boxes are 02J although need to confirm this with someone just want the minimum of hassle changing boxes, i guess the other option is to find a 20v 02j box and change eh final drive but to be honest I would prefer not having to open the box for the time being until i can afford a better diff.

ok , think the diff on the 02a box is starting to whine, changed both front wheel bearings and still high pitched whine which gets higher depending on car speed, doesnt alter pitch on gear change only on car speed,and doesnt change when clutch is dipped, so think it must be the diff. I need to know which boxes will fit my car, its a corrado g60 with an s3 engine, I am not interested in changing to VR ratios I want a diesel box, either 5spd or six speed (i am guessing it will be 5spd having read the difficulties of fitting a 6spd box) anyhow I need to know what is the latest diesel box I can straight fit to my car, will the mk4 tdi boxes bolt straight up etc, or do i have to go earlier, I want nice long ratios form a diesel that I can later fit a LSD to, and are these boxes strong enough to cope with 350 - 400 bhp. any help most welcome as I need to start sourcing a new box asap, this will be the thrid box I have killed 8) not the same car though :-)

Hi mate yes it does and movement in the belt suggest that the alignment is out and that the pulley may be shifting, If I were you I would whip the charger belt off and take the bottom pulley off and take a look at the crank pulley, you can do this without removing the cam belt shouldnt take longer than an hour or so. wouldnt bother spending on a gas analyser, you will only need it once or twice, much better to just borrow it :-)

hi matey, get the bottom pulley checked as this is very symptomatic of the creeping bolt, and teh co pot for the jabba chip is likely to be anywhere between .5 and .7 and is unlikley to affect things that much even if its not bang on.

got to be worth a try, some 16v engines are like slugs and some are belters, so provided you can always swap back if the engine turns out to be a complete lemon then I reckon your quids in.

might be worth swapping the engines over especially if you can either do it yourself or get it done cheaply, I have driven many 16v engines and they do tend to be either very sweet or not, I think this has a lot to do with the engines care over the years and also how hard it was driven when new, I think a lot of the faster ones have been thrashed from new, seems to be what frees these engines up. you might spend a few hundred on a HG and still feel like a bit of a slug, worth swapping if you can find a decent one.

whatever you do dont drive it any further until you get an oil pressure gauge on it, boiling water sounds like possible head gasket. you arent perchance the fella that bought the big valve head from us about 8 months ago ? whats the oil level and water level like now the car has cooled ....

Just been looking at the car list for the upcoming xbox360 game forza motorsport, corrado VR6 and mk2 golf GTi roll on May

To Be honest mate unless you intend to spend a fortune on a VR6 conversion and then either charge it or turbo it you are much better sticking with the g60, if you want a VR6 buy one don't transplant into a g60, once you get the engine sorted 200+ bhp is easily achievable without breaking the bank.