samg60

Hi Cai, only just seen your post your inane message on my phone at 5:30am in the morning now makes sense, was going to ring you back but figuered you would be in hiding as you had rang at that time of the morning, hope your car is back on the road soon, its made me hurry up and start organising new things like con rods and turbos for mine just so I can keep up. PS go and have a look at Forza motorsport 2 website then go and buy a 360 will ya. Ta for now :-)

I bought it from Redlee on this forum, however he owned it for two years and bought it in the first place from an audi engineer who did the conversion. when I bought the car i knew it needed some work as it was chucking black smoke out but figured it was just a mapping problem. which it kinda was. anyhow I think the car was originally built for DTA as it was purchased the same time as the other receipts and the loom was built up for DTA, I doubt that it was for another ECU as the connections just aint gonna be the same. there were some mistakes which indicate that it was a proficient engineer just lacking DTA knowledge such as the Coil packs being wired acccording to VW specs not DTA. The original MAP was by wayne schofield or so I'm told, and have a print out for 285bhp and 320ftlb on dubsports rollers but it hit no where near that on the first run on Stealths rollers and was dropping boost due to the coils not firing correctly, it was aslo overboosting quite a bit which isnt good for the turbo life. anyway its all sorted now and am very happy especially after yesterdays stint on the A34 and M6 has me think that I more than happy with the amount of power its delivering for the time being :wink: , completely different beast to the car I bought. 8)

Yeah, Vince has given us a few things in DTA to play around with, although I think its pretty much sorted now, The typical cold start idle problem is there but goes in about 30 secs, but doesnt run rich or anything just idles very low, Vince did suggest a mk1 mechanical idle valve which I may try and have a go with although I think if i just have a small play with the water temp compensation etc, I should be good. What I find odd is that the conversion on this car seems to have been done to a high standard yet there as some fundamental things wrong which were causing it to underperform quite considerably. resistor in DTA, Coil packs wired incorrectly, an inline adjustable fpr which really wasnt needed I guess this was added to try and solve some issues caused by the former. anyhow it running lovley now, just need to sort the seal around the fuel pump in the boot which I obviously havent put back correctly and nearly died of fume overload yesterday when I filled it to the top :-) checked the boot to find petrol leaking out. "Ben I cleaned the car put only just a quick was, will get to it now the weathers getting nice though"

Just thought I had better post up, car looks like its finally sorted, after lots of parts being changed and a lot of diagnosis including the nasty thought that I might need a new loom or DTA box. I found a resisistor in the loom, which I got Vince to check and found it it was in line with the injectors, got Vince to remove it and it looks as though it was the problem all along. Heaven Knows why this was there as the car is running standard TT injectors, anyhow after a part remap and picking it up yesterday it all seems perfect. basically though this car has never run right since it was built which is a pity as it drives lovely now, drove it a good 350 miles over the weekend without a hickup, no flat spots or stalling or running rich. Hopefully can enjoy the car for what it is now, and a word of thanks To Vince and everyone for finally getting to the bottom of this (fingers crossed just in case) with us.

I paid £90 for a genuine g60 pump about a year back, think there are other suppliers but might be best to go genuine on this part

some differences are 20mm wrist pins rather than 19mm and apparently a stronger bottom end as vw show more webbing on the 225 block, however I have never taken a 1.8t block apart so cant comment. also lower compression to cope with more boost

Didnt do the conversion myself, but have a BAM engine in mine and its hit 300bhp quite easily. guess the advantage of the audi engine is that it comes with the k04 and and the correct injectors etc and I know people say they are the same engine but have heard mixed info on this and according to quite a few the 225 engines are somewhat stronger. also the smaller ports give better low down torque so unless your trying to hit 350 - 400 bhp there isnt much wrong with them.

Hi Matey yeah it seized several times and I did rebuild it but after the third tim it was never the same, in the end the two blades fused together into a molten mess, I was running silly pulley sizes 50mm and the bigger bottom crank (3mm bigger than standard so I guess that is one of the reasons) the unit used to get so hot, but also a lot of this trouble happened after the sliencing kit which added a lot of weight to the back end. what ever the reason one thing is for sure any flex in the case is a very bad thing on these chargers. so just take care. gone 20v now and despite all the (everyones done that comments I get its the best thing I ever did) although I do miss the agressiveness and noise the lysholm used to make especially on full tilt. maybe one day I i'll get another lysholmed car but I do feel that it should be very well supported. have you ever looked at the way Peter Tong mounts his units, a bracket supports the whole length of the unit so that it cannot flex, which seems a much better idea. anyhow hope you dont ahve any issues with yours. what lag problems are you finding with the lysholm as I never had any issues, I know this is because the units differ and yours is a larger unit so obviously operates slightly differently.

yeah I used to run a passat pulley on my glader and my lysholm and it did seem to make a diffrence, I used to manage 15psi on my glader and my mate the same on his fully ported lader we never could understand why until we noticed I was running the bigger crank pulley so yes I guess it is a worthy edition, still have it if anyone is interested. Be aware PotatoNet once these lysholm start seizing only bad things happen, please make extra sure that the chassis is not flexing at all as it aint good whne the break.

surely it would be a safer bet to run some aqua mist rather than nos, as won't nos add to the heat in the combustion chambers as it will be burning hotter. charge cooler and methonal I reckon would be better.

just looking for 20v heads and cams and found this site just wondered what peoples thoughts were on them even if they do cost a small fortune http://www.qedpower.com/ also went to my car this morning and big gash in back tyre so phoned http://www.etyres.co.uk and they are coming on saturday to replace two tyres at my doorstep whilst i watch the footy. bloody marvelous

either darren of gwerks or steve from pitstop developments, both are next door to each other so its going to the same place

I dont think that particular autorotor will flow enough for the six pot but there are other models, However I think the space required to mount one would be difficult, take a look on vortex forums I think it has been discussed a few times

Thanks Dave, yeah the cold starting really deos seem to be sorted now I have also sent an email to Vince asking him to look at my map again (need to stop moidering the poor bloke :-) ) no stepper motor etc on my car or idle valve only a screw to stop the throttle hitting the stop i.e to allow a little air past the butterfly, this seems to work well enough. car has been running brilliantly but then today I filled her up and as soon as I came out of the service station and to a junction she died, managed to keep her going by not stopping an then floored the throttle and the car runs fine again, although tootling at low revs she can occasionally feel really bogged down until i hit the throttle again and clear the fault, am wondering if the fuel pump is perhaps full of crap, going to take a look at the weekend, might order a heavy duty in tank pump from sytec as Kev suggests. yeah the 20v corrado is fantastic, will happily take you for a spin should I ever catch up with ya, it is quite lazy to drive but with 300ftlb around 3000rpm it can suddenly turn into an absolute animal, need to find away to put the power down a little better. it has a nasty habit of lighting up the tires and putting you the wrong side of the road if your not careful, but feathering the throttle makes it very rapid indeed.

right then here is my idle control setting but as you can see the idle control is turned off, I am a little hesitant at turning things on and off as the MAP is from stealth and I assume things were set up when he ran the map on the rollers, but having said that I am guessing that most of the mapping session was spent tuning the car to get teh most out of it rather then fine tuning things like idle, hence the start fuel map and the idle setting being a little off. so what do you think should I turn it on ? afraid i'm not at Stealth this weekend was only there two months ago for the current Map (had to leave the car there as the coil packs were wired incorrectly hence my lack of knowledge about what happended on the rollers) and it cost a fair amount of fuel to get there an back and as I havent added anything I guess my results will be very similiar (or prehaps a little higher as the weather is colder and it was mapped on 97ron not 99 as I am running) will defo bring it down next year when I have done some more work on the motor. By the way just started the car from cold with the new start fuel map and it started on the button after reducing the first row from 176 to 100 so may go a little lower. Cheers Sam

Hi Dave yeah set the first row to 100 and it still starts fine so am going to try that for a while, will read through the manual and have a play. have adjusted the ignition map as well by a few degrees around the 800 rpm - 1000rpm as the engine isnt under load at these revs so figure I can play around a little more. kinda fun this :-)

yeah not too sure about that either, I am going to adjust these and see how it behaves as its definately the reason its flooding at start sometimes, I have taken 30 off and will see how it behaves, with regard to the start fuel map when does it stop using this and is it simply the amount extra of fuel that it throws in on top

I cant see you getting close to the MR2 turbo (With a top speed of 152mph and a 0-60 capability of 5.7 seconds) unless you do the same to the valver

No Gav, another wire entirley but might not have sorted the problem anyway am going to have a play with the dta to see whether there is something there I can have a play with like the ignition advance, the car ran fine for six days and then played up once at a junction but gave the car full throttle and it cleared. I am pretty sure the problem starting is too much fuel as when I remove the fuel pump relay and then run a coil and injector test the problem disappears. so I guess its just flooding, but the problem with idle at junctions is odd, not too sure whether its an intermittant fuel issue or MAP related.

just an e48 at the moment but looking the possibility of s60 or p8 pro in the future when a bigger blower and aquamist find there way onto the car.

Thanks matey, when is the stealth day, definatley running more than .5 bar boost hits about 1.3 - 1.4 bar so maybe it is throttle, I do think its over enrichment at cold cranking just not sure what number to chuck in, I may post up some more screen shots later if anyone one to take a look and throw some ideas my way, original map is by stealth and is a belter it just seems to need a bit of work at cold start and idle.

Just wanting to have a play around with the ignition map on my car at low rpm to catch idle a little better, just looking at the map, what are the number that run across the top, I understand the side is rpm and the numbers in the box are degrees but wht are the top, sorry really new to engine mapping and just want a few points. also engine can flood really easily when staring meaning I have to run a spark test to clear, anything i should change on the fuel map ?

Problem all solved have been running car for five days doing all I can to get the car to stall and it wont, I had the fuse box out last week and found a connection that looked particularly dodgy car has been faultless since. cant believe it was just that but like I say it has been perfect since, now I can actually look forward to driving the thing again, just gutted the weather has turned. gonna try and read up a bit on dta and engine managment as its the one area I have very little idea about.

I am very suprised how much stick the 1.8T engine gets having owned a variety of VWs finest and running a very powerful g60 engine for a few years I have to say the 1.8T engine is a fine engine. admitidley probably not the best person to discuss this at the moment considering the problems i am having with the current motor, but in terms of drivability and power the 1.8T is without doubt the best i have so far owned. I do wonder with the 2 litre engine and its direct injection and higher compression whether this engine will be capable of the power that the 1.8T can deliver almost out of the box. sorry to go on here but I am a bit pissed with people saying you could have a more original conversion and that teh engine has no soul, I feel its just people jumping on the bandwagon I mean I know they are not without there faults but no engine are, i mean I have detroyed three 020 Gearboxes, shattered big ends on a 16v, killed two different types of supercharger and had the bottom bolt fail on a g60 its just part an parcel of owning high powered cars.

Cheers everyone will get the laptop plugged in asap and try and get a better idea of what is going on and also check the crank sensor. by the way for anyone who is interested I have found a useful forum for DTA stuff http://dtaforum.psycode.com/