sciroccotune

i think there is a kit on frost.. looked into this a while ago and didnt like the prices i was seeing..

hello mate, did you do the windows yourself? what did you use etc...

Does it work? well so far so good really. I do defiantly think that the back is quieter - i.e less exhaust noise (still a bit as there is a crack I have to weld up). I think that the test will be in the front doors and the dash area as most 'o' the noise is now in those areas. When i do the doors i will put another layer on the boot floor. Basically i think that it is well worth it I found that rolls of the aqua seal 10mx25cm are about £16 in B&Q so even if I eventually go over it with a bit of dynomat or brown bread its all good! Oh and I added a bit to the underside of the rear speaker pods and it stops ant rattles nicely ;-)

LOL @ VR6 and Hywire (all hail the king of soundproofing ;-)).... Well since I’m a cheap/skint student I decided to have a look into using the flash tape method.. And since I found two big rolls thanks to me dad, I went ahead and used them. So far I have done the boot floor, behind rear door cards and under rear seats. Impressions so far quit good, noticeably quieter using 2 layers and I suspect that once the front doors and behind the dash are done it will be even better

Well I guess time will tell but I don’t see that area flexing much tbh... Let’s remember that some tract cars have fibber bodies and I don’t often see then crack unless they hit something. My friends radical has been using the same fibber shell for years.

Just make sure you get the right pressure sender. i.e. 5 bar for a 5 bar gauge and 10bar for 10 bar gauge etc.. I normally make a loom up for them. I take a ignition positive from the fan switch (black yellow I think) and take positive for the illumination from the heater control light (blue grey I think) well that’s the easiest way for the lazy.

I took the plunge and used a jet washer round at the local bp garage. NO real problems but I did give the dizzy cap a spray with wd40. My engine is about as clean as it can be without taking bits out and polishing them. Why oh why is the valver inlet all pitted and basically a dirt collector lol. Will give it one more try with some turtle wax stuff..

no should be constant iirc.

I would pull and test the injectors first mate, bridge the fuel relay and put each injector in turn into a jar whilst pulling the metering flap up and watch for the spry pattern. should be fine conical shape. Could be the electrical connection on the wur, check for 12v with car running.. edit: would also get the co sorted befor new injectors if spray pattern ok..

Could well be the injectors, it’s recommended that they last 80k lol but everyone has them in way longer. Stick some cleaner through first off. Could all sorts causing it to run rich, co set wrong to start WUR, sticking fuel distributor shaft- many things. The Kr ecu can alter the timing as you say. And a small amount of cap movement with the clips off is ok. Have you checked all ht leads etc

how about a 'cell' as in a storm cell...

so anyone used the b&q stuff??

i dont think the oil path ways line up, but i may be wrong,,,

i had the model before, not bad at all.. I dont think sonys ever sound 'as' good as the likes of alpine but it had no problem with mp3 (did it quickly etc) and for that price i would go for it. :-)

did the same to my 2l16v and it was much better when put back into the air box...

a range of oils can be used, but get vw stuff blue or silver (i have always used silver:-))

lol @ dinkus

I have heard varying things about caming a 16v, good things about doing the exhaust cam mod (using 2 exhaust cams) for my 2l 16v im going to put a kr inlet cam in and see how that works out stealth

Dont get many for the 1.8 16v as the chip only does the ignition timing. the very best thing for the 1.8 is a good set up at the likes of stelth. chaps on the cgti forum rave about it!!

if its just chips, i.e no rust, then that would be fine. I also find that VAG touch up paint really lasts too.

I have been planning to do a nugget VR in the next few years - cool colour :-)

i have the same make system, check for cracks but think mine has alwasy done it lol

well don’t know if they are the same but i got a new top hose for my 2l16v from halfords and it fit perfectly. coast about £8.. Worth taking you old hose down and offering it up against some of the prefab hoses they have?

Thanks for the reply mate, I did indeed see your car looks really good and has kinds got me going on the idea. That price is good considering a small roll of dynomat costs £20 from hellfrauds..

Ok guys I’m planning on sound proofing my C as much as possible. Could you guys give me any information on the products you have used, like maybe where you got it for a good price etc. My main question is there is always references to using B&Q style lead flashing (is that the right stuff) but not seen anyone that has used it and given comment - any reviews of this method. cheers